I think the teeth would dig in Ok but then you'd sink up the blade and start dragging soil. You can buy notched cutter bars for the blades which is less aggresive but the same idea. Roughen the surface then drag the fill.

 

Could you plow, as in like you were using a moldboard plow? Tilling the ground with furrows for planting and such? No. Not even faintly so.

Could you scuff up the ground and scrape it some? Yes.

 

Not going to work. With a tractor like a 9n best to find a single bottom or very small (10") 2 bottom plow if you want to do any real tillage work. What you're suggesting will just ruin the blade and that's about all.

 

used single bottom plow and disc harrow shouldn't cost much, finding them might take a little digging around. Thats what i use with a little JD M.

 

I should add there are a few tricks to plowing with a single bottom plow if you decide to go that route. Mainly a single bottom usually needs to be mounted off center of the tractor to get the correct furrow distance from the wheel so that there is no unturned ground.
A small double bottom may be easier.
Read all about it at Yesterdays tractor for the 8 & 9 Ns

 

I think you should look around at farm equipment auctions for a disk harrow.

You can get a much better seedbed than with any type of chisel plow, and they aren't all that expensive.

No need to ruin your blade just to find out it won't do what you want it to

 

As Bearfootfarm said. An old pull type non hydraulic lift dics harrow should sell for less than $50. it will do what you want and you will not have to loan it as there will be not way to transport the implement easily.

 

The old disk harrows (non-hydraulic) gone in this area as is much of whatever horse machinery that did exist (not farming area). Either collectors or scrappers. Usually when you did see one, you would have had to totally rebuild it IF you could even find correct parts. The little 3pt disk harrows are high dollar and most are built cheaply so hard to find one without a bent frame. Can occasionally find old disk with its own wheels that used hydraulic ram to lift out of soil. But even they are starting to sell high. JD 8ft one sold $500 last fall at auction I went to and it had bunch welding on it. Somebody had maintained bearings, nothing wobbly and disks not worn to a knub. I'd of gladly given them $150 for it..... It would be too big for an old Ford, but guess you could cut and weld and use half of it.

As to the idea of adding teeth to a 3pt blade. No not going to make a chisel plow out of it, however small box blades do come with adjustable ripper teeth. So normal blade if you maybe reinforced it a bit, you might add some old cultivator sweeps, or chisel teeth, or whatever you had handy, and be able to use it to smooth an area where you had used a moldboard plow. I mean you dont have to be real efficient just to plow up a garden which is what I assume is the point of this exercise. Remember the first plows were just charred pointy stick. Use what you have or can rig up until you find something cheap that is better.

 

Spacing & angle of the shanks is important. I don't think you would get good results from this. As well we have rocks here in Minnesota, I think your blade will not come out well from this....

--->Paul

 

Like all more or less said above. Also the FFord wont sock the blade into the ground and keep it there. If u have hardpan, it will ride above it. A one bottom 16 would be good, if the Ford is good, Well, forgit that lol. One bottoms have an added advantage I didnt find out till I went to plant taters. i usually use my walking lister, and get somebody to drive the tractor while I make the rows. i decided to use the IHC 1 16 and go down the row with the handles both set back as farr as they would go, THEN, I came back down the furrow the other way and threw the dirt the other ways, and I had a near perfect row to plant taters.

SAY FELLERS. I got an Idee. If I found 2 doz old straight razors, and broke off the handles, and welded the shanks to a bar 2in apart, and welded that to a bar attached to the lft on my CUB, and ran a cable from near the bottom of the up and down shank to the front of the tractor, Do ya think I could cut the soil easier that way????????????

 

I've got what was once a horse plow that someone converted to 3 point hitch and then wore out. I removed the bottom and welded on a tooth made from some small leaf spring. I put it on the back of my Satoh Elk (17hp, Cub sized) and the tooth rips down about a foot. I can do that several times, then do the surface with an old drag disk.

Dan

 

I don't thinnk it work for you Farmboy. 1st off, how you gonna strop all them blades between fields if they're all welded together so close. 2nd, I don't care if you use a poly brush or a boars bristle brush, you ain't never gonna get enough lather worked up for a good close plowin. Save the blades to make you a first rate cultivator.

 

Might work for secondary tillage or if garden is not in sod and not too many weeds. If you decide to do this turn the blade around like you do when plowing in reverse and don't put the tines to close and might work for you .... interesting idea !

 

Sounds pretty close to a box blade and they are not tillage items.

 

Yep sounds a lot like a box blade .... but if you just used the blade as a frame to attack S-tines you would have basically a tool bar. I give this poster an "A" for being creative and advise him to look for a moldboard blow and two sections of harrow

 

I am not sure but I think Blades (moldboard) while not hard are very tough. You will need a good cobalt drill bit and a drill press. The cutting edge can’t be drilled with any success.

Dave

 

The blade is probably soft so will flex without breaking and cutting edge hard for wear. A blade is something used year around and so would seem to be a hastle to convert back and forth.

 

I just built a 3 shank chisel plow, 3 pt hitch from scratch.
Used it yesterday (sat) and it works great. Covers about 3 ft per pass.
This is used on my Allis Chalmers 620 tractor (repowered with a Briggs Vanguard engine, great on fuel).
I was pulling it about 5 to 6 inches deep. Conservation tillage.
Certainly much faster than my 12 inch Brinly plow.
All materials used are new... The points were the most expensive single items, the frame is constructed from remnant metal tubing and angle iron. Still under a hundred bucks total for materials plus my time making it.
Huge time and fuel saver too!

Tom

 

Hey Tom see ya at Danville plowday .... need to look up your number and give ya a call !!!!