Txrider,
We are on well water, so it's non-chlorinated. My husband wants a filter because there's a landfill a few miles away, so he worries about the water quality.
I'll ask him to check into commercial RO systems. The systems from Home Depot vary widely in price. We currently have a "Water Factory" system (I think that's what he said it was. He's in a meeting now so I can't verify.) The replacement filters on it are super expensive and other RO systems are cheap in comparison, but he can't find anything telling why Water Factory systems are so great that they should cost so much more.
That's good so a good TFC membrane should last if it is back washed and maintained. Avoid a unit with a CTA type membrane.
You should have a sediment filter, possibly a carbon filter, then the membrane, then a finishing carbon filter and storage tank with a line coming up to the faucet.
The filters should be stock sized and cheap, the membrane should be name brand membrane film like filmtec or something. Some makers use proprietary filters and housings, so you can only buy the filter from them, and charge more for it some of them much more, for a filter not as good as standard sized cartridges.
The membrane requires a constant water flow across it to produce water, it will produce a small waste stream usually through a capillary tube that is located in the waste water outlet of the membrane, That little tube or flow control clogging up is the #1 failure point. And it is good to remove it and do a high flow flush of water through the membrane now and then for a few minutes, then put it back in and make sure it's not plugged. With really hard or high iron water that capillary flow control can plug up pretty quickly.
Some units provide a bypass valve to make that flushing easier but it's rare. But if no water is flowing out of the waste line the membrane will plug and the unit will quit making water. They also usually slow down production and water quality if not backwashed by removing the capillary and flushing, and doing so can greatly extend the life and efficiency of the membrane.
The next failure point is usually the storage tank, it has a rubber bladder in it that has to have the proper air charge, and the bladders fail in time requiring a new tank if the bladder is not replaceable, as well any time the system is opened on the tank side of the membrane you need to sanitize the tank with a little clorox or such. You don't want any bacteria on the tank side of the system.
A system with a good quality membrane, standard sized filter housing so you can use decent brand filters, should do you just fine. You can also tie the waste water system into a catchment system for watering plants and such if you like, usually a few gallons go out the waste tube for every gallon of filtered water produced.
You also should have a TDS meter to check a comparison with RO water vs unfiltered to see how well it is performing.
I did a quick google and these folks look decent, though prices may be a little high... I can't really vouch for them though, the membranes on the residential systems seem a bit small but they seem decent quality and they offer a small pump boosted system.
http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/products.htm
A pump boosted system always seemed to perform significantly better in my experience as far as less dissolved solids as well as more gallons produced.. One with a flush valve is convenient for maintenance, but a handy person could easily get a little ball valve at the hardware store and make a flush valve to bypass the capillary or flow restrictor..
I googled "water factory RO", and if what came up is what you have, it is one of the proprietary non standard filter and membrane cartridge units I would not recommend. With a standard system you can get parts from anywhere.