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Rain Jumping Gutter On Low Slope Metal Roof

3.5K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  ForestryGuy  
#1 ·
I put a new roof on my shed a couple years and added a gutter, and really haven't paid it much attention. A few weeks ago I went down and was looking at something and noticed that rain is still jumping the gutter. This is frustration as its causing issues I had fixed on the ground below the gutter (erosion). I had done a good bit of research and come up with any good answers. I stopped by the local amish pole barn place today and was talking to them and they made na interesting suggestion. Bend a piece of flashing and screw it to the tops of the ridges of the metal and then have it bend down into the gutter. Then there would be a gap of sorts between the flashing and the valley of the metal to allow water and the piece bent down would prevent the water from jumping the gutter. I live in central Ohio so the snow concern here isnt huge but it is a concern. Just wondered if anyone has done something similar or has any experience. I have attached a simple drawing to give you an idea.

The two black lines represent the valley and the peak of the metal roofing
The brown line is the fascia board
The red is the gutter
The green is the proposed flashing which would probably have a closer to 90 degree bend then is shown in the picture
 

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#2 ·
Issue is wrong style gutter . Before I rigged it with a piece of metal which will create a dam issue in snow I would either remove gutter and cut or bend back side so it allows front to be higher than the panel or have a box gutter made for it that is correct or if your drawing is correct and its is already a box gutter and not k style just turn it around and fix front to facia
 
#3 ·
It is a K style gutter, both the front and back are the same height so flipping it around isn't going to help me. Drawing was made in Paint it is perfect or to scale in any way shape or form. The issue is the amount of overhang into the gutter as much as it is the height. I can move it up some but don't think it will be enough to fix the problem. I was suggest to put angled blocks of treated 2x behind it as to move it out and move the front lip but don't really like the idea of creating a cavity there that will be filled with wasp nest given time. I don't mind them so much but the wife hates them, its hard enough getting her to help with chores without large numbers of wasps so I don't want to increase the issue
 
#4 ·
I understand and I have Kstyle on my barn its 60' long by 50 wide so the runs are over 26' and the pitch is 4 on 12 so its a lot of water. I have blocks behind mine made for the gutter which makes accounts for the angle on the facia. it gets a few dirt daubers and a wasp nest or 2 but never been an issue. I get more wasp nest on the trusses .
 
#5 ·
The flashing idea will work as long as you don't get too much snowfall or leaves on the roof.

Anything that raises the gutters will increase the likelihood of damage from ice or snow sliding off

If your snowfalls don't exceed the load capacity of the roof, it shouldn't be a problem for it to not slide off.
 
#6 ·
All the ideas sound good to me. I was just curious how wide are the gutters, and how much metal roof overhang is there?
By the sounds of it, the gutters are too narrow given the overhang.
The water divert-er idea sounds interesting. I would think blocking behind gutters would be easier and make life easier for cleaning.
 
#8 ·
I think that the overhang is part of the issue, as well as the fact that I probably have the gutter hung a little lower than I probably should but talking to several people they had me scared of snow and ice sliding and ripping the gutter off, but after the last couple winters haven't noticed any major sliding. The green color absorbs heat and melts most of the snow and ice off. We very seldom see more than a couple of inches of snow at a time. I haven't measured it, will do that this evening. Thinking I am probably going to give it a try, as it is going to be easier than blocking out the gutter, as this would require me to pull the gutter down attach individual blocks or full length 2x and then re hang the gutter. I am pretty much a one man show show easy is a plus for me. I have a perlin that the metal is screwed into fairly close to the back edge so thinking I can just use those screws and not have to punch new holes in the roof so if I do have to take it off I haven't damaged the roof any. Clogging isn't really an issue, as there is only 1 tree in the area and it is about 60 feet from the front edge of the shed, and the prevailing winds come from the opposite direction as the tree.
 
#9 ·
I'm a big fan of eliminating gutters whenever possible. They are probably one of the single biggest sources of roof leaks and other water related problems. A good alternative is to create a hard "splash surface" such as concrete, asphalt or stone, sloped away from the building, where water splashes on the ground.

When you build a building, make your entrances on the gable ends rather than eaves, so you are not coming in and out under the water run off. I realize this isn't always possible, so in some instances gutter is necessary, but I try to avoid using it whenever I can.

Drive around and look at houses and buildings. Very few clean or maintain their gutters, and it is very common to see small trees growing in them.
 
#10 ·
I like the idea of removing gutters but in this instance it won't really work. It is a single slope roof and the entrance is on the high side so its not an issue with the door. The issue is behind the shed, which is part of the pasture. Any time there is water there the livestock hangs out there and makes it into a giant muddy mess. I am hoping that long term I can correct this but for the time being I just have it fenced out with a single strand of electric. I don't have the money to concrete or asphalt this nor do I want a bunch of large rock in the pasture where in the future it makes mowing a pain. When we bought the place 4 years ago there wasn't a gutter at all on the shed and there was a "ditch" about 3 feet wide and deep behind the shed due to the erosion over the years. As I have done some digging I have filled this in and want to keep it that way. To me removing gutters only works in areas where you are going to have large areas of non erodible surface, because even if you put a small strip in you will still have erosion where the splash comes off the strip.