I don't have alot of knowledge with farm ponds so anyone feel free to correct me, but drawing from my experience with aquarium maintenance, it sounds like you need to deal with the problem. The problem is excess nutrients in the water not the algae. Algae is a part of life if you have water with nutrients in it that is exposed to sunlight. Eliminate the nitrogen and the algae will die back. Dyes would also cut off the sunlight to the algae but probably wouldn't do anything to the cattails. Fertilizers coming from your neighbors field and manure coming from your horse pasture are supplying the nitrogen and other nutrients. Try planting lots of plants that are not as invasive as the cattails, to suck up any nitrogen that is leaching into the pond. Plant something around the perimeter that requires lots of moisture and lots of nitrogen.

You could try getting some ducks. They should help some with the algae, but they'll also contribute to the nitrogen problem with their poop. Airation would help too. There are also carp that are stocked in ponds to help clean up weeds.

 

If I'm not mistaken, you could throw a bail of barley straw in the pond to control algea, and check out the walmart of the swamp on catails,(plant identificaiton forum) they're very edible.

 

As mentioned, your problem is nutrients. Any pond owner will tell you that algae bloom in the spring is normal. It just takes longer for other plants to get going and the algae blooms. I like blanket algae because I could just pull it out and put it in the compost.

What plants do you want in your pond? Water lillies? Plant them. There will still be algae bloom in the spring, but once the lillies get going they will use the nutrients as well as shade the pond. The algae won't grow without light. Put some other forms of plants out there, seaweed basicly. I suppose you could grow vegetables hydroponicly as well. Where the overflow is, you can plant marsh plants, such as marsh marigold, cardinal flowers, native iris, etc.

 

You must remove the nutrients from the pond. Probably the most effective and quickest way of doing this is to dredge the muck out of the bottom of the pond until you hit soil.

 

Can't kill a cattail in Minnesota without getting nasty letters from the control freaks. There is a type of Roundup called 'Rodeo' that is safe(r) for ponds and will control green plants - if you don't get thrown in jail for it where you live.

For the algae barley straw can be a fair control. Being real careful how you fert your lawn and keeping extra N, P, & K from washing in will help.

--->Paul

 

Right now, most of the runoff from the fields goes directly into the drainage creek through our yard, but some of it does run into the pond as well. We're planning on extending/improving the drainage creek upstream of the pond to prevent more of this nutrient-rich water from getting into the pond. I'm not worried this will impact the pond water levels much because the water level stays up long after the runoff areas and drainage creek dry up for summer.

We will check out dredging the pond to get rid of the accumulation on the bottom. I know that stuff helps provide food for algae.

I had heard of barley straw as a fix before. Does that work well for a pond of this size? Most of what I had seen advertised was for ounces that cleared about 1000 gal. Should I just use several of these? Most places seem pretty pricey, but I found one place that sells treatments for 2000 gallon ponds for $12. I could buy 6, I guess.

We didn't have any problem with the algae in spring. It didn't start accumulating until June. It quickly overtook the entire shallow end of the pond...enough that you couldn't see the water. Looked like you could walk out there The deep end never got any except around the edges. I know that in this area, the light can't get to the bottom to promote growth. I tried raking it out for compost, but I couldn't reach it all and there was just too much of it.

I hadn't intended to have any plants growing in the shallow end of the pond at all, but I can check some out. If water lillies etc. will help, I'll try them.

 

In western Pa I have the same problem.
In my 1/4 a. pond we put double the triploid carp in, and a couple dozen also of Koi. Koi will reproduce if protected from preditors.Ive heard of throwing old or extra flour in like the barley straw.
Grandkids pull what few cattails that manage to grow.
I also started deep red water lilys to shade the water.Our yellows and white lilys are too invasive,much worse than the cattails!
Put water cress at the over flow and you can harvest some of the tangy zinc loaded sandwhich material there is. I put manaise on it.
By the way if possible divert as much of the farms runoff as you can and enjoy the safest source of fish you will find.
P.S. my fish tripled in size in one year from all the food.One bass in three years was 23 "
I have rock bass, blue gill. yellow perch, crappie,and so far large and small mouth bass.
Good luck

 

Can't kill a cattail in Minnesota without getting nasty letters from the control freaks. There is a type of Roundup called 'Rodeo' that is safe(r) for ponds and will control green plants - if you don't get thrown in jail for it where you live.
--->Paul

Just to clarify...I don't know how it is in Wisconsin but in Minnesota, if the pond is less than 10 acres in a rural area or 2 acres in an urban area, it is generally not classified as a "public water" and you can do whatever you want with the vegetation. Use Rodeo for the cattails and a product that contains copper sulfate for the algae. And yes, make sure the nutrient issues are taken care of or this will be a constant battle.

I am a former "vegetation control freak" for the State of Minnesota.

 

I'm in Missouri and I'm going to refer you to a great website....http://www.conservation.state.mo.us/ once you there click on the "Privant Land Assistance" tab at the top of the page. There you will find some great pond maintenance information. Your local conservation office also can help you with your pond problems.

We had an old pond cleaned out by a GREAT old dozer operator. He told us the cattails grow in shallow water and the edges of the pond need to be deep to help prevent their growth. Our new pond is now 2 years old and last summer some grasses started showing up. We stocked the pond from a local hatchery with a healthy balance of fish. We also added 3 Grass Carp who eat 3 times their weight in grasses and also eat newly sprouting cattails!

I've read somewhere that when the pond is frozen over you should cut off the cattails down to the ice. Once the spring rains begin the water level will rise and drown the cattails. I don't know if that is true...but could be worth a try. Most important thing is to keep them from going to seed. If you can limit their growth...they do draw Red Wing Blackbirds as they like to nest in them. They do have a beautiful song in the evening

 

in Minnesota, if the pond is less than 10 acres in a rural area or 2 acres in an urban area, it is generally not classified as a "public water" and you can do whatever you want with the vegetation.

So if I were in Minnesota and had a 500 acre property and in the center I had a 100 acre lake the state would consider it "public water"? What does such a classification entail? I couldn't do what I wanted to with it? The state would have a say so in my management practices? I'm really curious.

 

Thant's right, Quint. It doesn't make any difference who owns the land around the lake...it is a public water. Now mind you, in your scenario, the "public" would be tresspassing to get to the lake unless they used a helicopter or float plane.

And as far as the cattails and algae go, if you kill them with a hebicide they'll likely come back after a while. My recommendation is to get rid of the food source (nutrients) if you want long-term control.

 

Hi Y'all,

I didn't notice antone recommend Pond Boss. It'a at:

http://www.pondboss.com/cgibin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Lots of Great information there, on Nutrients, Aeration, Fish,
Algae & Unwanted Plants.
G'Luck!
Have a gooder.

 

Hi Y'all,

I didn't notice antone recommend Pond Boss. It'a at:

http://www.pondboss.com/cgibin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Lots of Great information there, on Nutrients, Aeration, Fish,
Algae & Unwanted Plants.
G'Luck!
Have a gooder.

Works like a dream. Put any small or large bale of hay in the water every 50 to 100 feet; the older the hay the better --- cheap and simple.

Easiest way to get rid of cat tails is to graze cattle in hot weather. They kill them out.

 

I would try the straw bale trick. Also, for your pond being that small, rather than 'fix' it with chemicals, you might just as well pull up and/or rake the excess growth in the water and compost it. I might also put a few suckers in there to work on the algae.

 

Just to clarify...I don't know how it is in Wisconsin but in Minnesota, if the pond is less than 10 acres in a rural area or 2 acres in an urban area, it is generally not classified as a "public water" and you can do whatever you want with the vegetation. Use Rodeo for the cattails and a product that contains copper sulfate for the algae. And yes, make sure the nutrient issues are taken care of or this will be a constant battle.

I am a former "vegetation control freak" for the State of Minnesota.

Neighbors got letter when they cut road ditches for hay and there were 2-3 clumps of cattails in the newly rebuilt road ditches on top of the hills - minor dip in the road ditch construction. Not exactly natural ponds, and not more than 30' square.

Seems silly to me. But how it is.

--->Paul

 

So if I were in Minnesota and had a 500 acre property and in the center I had a 100 acre lake the state would consider it "public water"? What does such a classification entail? I couldn't do what I wanted to with it? The state would have a say so in my management practices? I'm really curious.

The state has a say in how I tile my farm, how I cultivate/ farm the steeper slopes, and they have domain over any wetlands. A wetland is defined as anything that can hold a couple inches of water for 2 weeks; or has subsurface water to near the surface for a long time; and if aquatic plants are growing within 3-5 miles of the location.

I am always amazed at what you folks all get by with on your 5-10 acres throught the country. i can't change waterflows, I can't plow up my pasture, I can't destroy certain vegitation, I can't drain ground without permits from 2 govt bodies, I need to farm 'their' way on Highly Erodable Lands.

Farming is extremely regulated here in Minnesota, & I'm in a very rural area.

Not sure how you all get by with the stuff you do. Perhaps I sound a bit bitter, but it's hard to live with a double standard like this, and then sometimes ag gets blamed for all the problems in the world too yet....

--->Paul

 

Easiest way to get rid of cat tails is to graze cattle in hot weather. They kill them out.

You can only do that in a big pond though. Thats the easiest way to kill all the fish in a small pond.

 

koi and goldfish will eat the green.
you have a bloom because of high nitrogen and phosphate runoff. drop an airiator in the center to get the oxygen level up so the bactria will grow... without oxygen the good bactreia that cleans the phosphate and nitro out of the water, will die.

why aint you harvesting the cat tials????

cat tail roots make FLOUR... very good flour too.
crush the root stalks in clean water and the starch will settle to the bottom and you drain/dry.
chopped cat tail root and shoots make great veggies.
cat tail leaves make good weaving material.
cat tail head make good stuffing material...
GREEEN cat tail head while still firm and green can be boiled and eaten with butter like corn on the cob...

I used to gather ctails a lot, but theyve civilized this area into a place where nothing civilized will grow.
all the wet spots have been sprayed with agent orange type crap or just bulldozed for housing plans.

youve got a food crop going there! harvest it!!

 

..... without oxygen the good bactreia that cleans the phosphate and nitro out of the water, will die.....

So Comfortably, where do the good bacteria put the nitrogen and phosphorus after they clean it out of the water?

 

Dustyangel,
I don't have a pond, or a homestead (yet), but I do have practical experience with these two problems. I was in charge of an IPM (integrated pest management) program for a very exclusive country club with more than 40 acres of pond and lake broken into 9 seperate bodys of water.
I (we) tried everything from restricted (single use), and controlled chemicals to barley bales and dyes. All of these remedies worked to some degree but only for at most a season or two.
The only answer that truly worked for us on an ongoing basis was posted earlier by BJ. You need to eliminate the shallow edges around your pond. A drop of 35 to 45 degrees will greatly reduce the water temperatures needed to start the algae bloom, and the deeper edges will make it all that more difficult for the Cattails to propagate.
The addition of Triploid (Genetically altered to prevent them from reproducing), commonly referred to as Grass Eating Carp will also benefit the pond immensly, especially after the profile of the banks have been altered.
I need to mention that it may be necessary to obtain a permit for the Triploids. They are controlled and could prove devestating to the environment if they were to escape and mutate back into reproductive fish.
Keep in mind also, that just cutting the Cattails back may actually increase the problem. The entire crown and rhizome (root) structure must be removed to eliminate the Cattails, if you don't,cutting them back simply provides more energy for an even greater number of new fresh shoots.
You may also want to consider a small fountain, or reasonably suited recirculating pump to ensure proper aerification and water movement, Algae hates moving water.
Good Luck Dustyangel, and don't forget to chomp on some of that Cattail, sweet and tasty at the right times.

Mark

 

Paul,

Glad I don't own land in Minnesota. In Mississippi, owners till own their land, mostly. I can do what I please.

In a small pond I've found the most simple thing to do is to spray just regular extra strenght Roundup to the fully developed aerial parts of the plants. Kills in about 2 weeks in warm weather. If you miss some you can go back after the kill whenyou can see what you're doing a lot better.

I don't get regrowth from the rhizomes (Roundup translocates) but every few years I'll spot some new plants from seed that has blown in. If you spot spray BEFORE much rhizome development they are easily controlled.

 

Paul,

Glad I don't own land in Minnesota. In Mississippi, owners till own their land, mostly. I can do what I please.

In a small pond I've found the most simple thing to do is to spray just regular extra strenght Roundup to the fully developed aerial parts of the plants. Kills in about 2 weeks in warm weather. If you miss some you can go back after the kill whenyou can see what you're doing a lot better.

I don't get regrowth from the rhizomes (Roundup translocates) but every few years I'll spot some new plants from seed that has blown in. If you spot spray BEFORE much rhizome development they are easily controlled.

Well, actually you are breaking the law too. Not following the label, which is a fedral offence.

But then, I tend to drive 60 in a 55 zone, so I'm not trying to point fingers.

Roundup has some surficants in it that are pretty hard on any aquatic critters - the fish, frogs, etc. in your waters. Not really nice to use on water. It would be really good of you to look for Rodeo and use that for the cattails. It is the same active product - glysophate - but is designed & labeled for use on water.

--->Paul

 

koi and goldfish will eat the green.
you have a bloom because of high nitrogen and phosphate runoff. drop an airiator in the center to get the oxygen level up so the bactria will grow... without oxygen the good bactreia that cleans the phosphate and nitro out of the water, will die.

why aint you harvesting the cat tials????

cat tail roots make FLOUR... very good flour too.
crush the root stalks in clean water and the starch will settle to the bottom and you drain/dry.
chopped cat tail root and shoots make great veggies.
cat tail leaves make good weaving material.
cat tail head make good stuffing material...
GREEEN cat tail head while still firm and green can be boiled and eaten with butter like corn on the cob...

I used to gather ctails a lot, but theyve civilized this area into a place where nothing civilized will grow.
all the wet spots have been sprayed with agent orange type crap or just bulldozed for housing plans.

youve got a food crop going there! harvest it!!

I'm curious about goldfish as an option. I know that the fishery sells carp for this purpose, so goldfish seem like a cheaper option. But what damage would I expect from them? Would they be eating the smaller fish and/or taking over?