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paul , doing what with it ?????

burning, it burns just fine,
carving ? dont carve thin details, it will dry and crack .
building , not reccomended due to shrink....
 

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Paul,

There are a few books available, i remember reading one years ago, "the green wood builders handbook" or something to that effect. Check the library, of course, that book has been around since the late 70's i believe.
On this subject, just yesterday we cut 700board feet of white oak from some logs on our place, turned them into some nice 10inch wide, 9ft long boards, that will eventually be siding for my cabin. (board and batten, i'l wait to cut the battens until the siding is going up, hopefully in about 45 days)
We are air-drying the lumber in a shed, and have stacked the boards so that air can reach all sides. In about a month and a half the moisture content should be around 12-20%, and the majority of the shrinkage should have already taken place. Then i will pre-drill the screw holes, (oak is nail-bending hard) , coat with linseed oil and put them on the cabin.
The sawyer charged $136 to bring his sawmill out to my place and saw the boards. So not counting a few hours labor, i believe we got a pretty good deal, around 20cents a board foot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thinking of building some small structures with green wood. I have a sawmill coming in a couple of weeks and lots of wood that needs to be thinned. I also have lots of projects.

I understand that a lot of log buildings are built with green wood. I think this is something I would like to understand better.
 

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If its Soft wood I would let it dry.But Oak I use Green,because I can't get a nail in it dry.

My house I have now was built with green wood 11 years ago.Going nto build another one using Green Wood.

big rockpile
 
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