Wood saw blades

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by Beeman, Jan 20, 2007.

  1. Beeman

    Beeman Well-Known Member

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    What brand of saw blades have you had the best service from for your circular saw and table saw? I bought a couple of B&D Pirhanna blades for my table saw and they seem OK but now I don't see them for sale any more. Have you had any success getting blades sharpened? it doesn't seem like there is anyone sharpening any more, I guess contractors just throw the blades away and buy more.
    How do you store your extra blades? I've just got mine stacked but there has to be a better way.
     
  2. toomb68

    toomb68 Well-Known Member

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    i use freud thin kerf combination blade in my underpowered table saw....i'm pleased with it....of course i've never used a forrest blade....
     

  3. TNHermit

    TNHermit Well-Known Member Supporter

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    The hitachi blades you get a Lowes are pretty good and usually markd down. the best is Forrest, Blue Ridge, Freud F40 Freud F80 The red Freud are good. So are the Bosch and Amana Never buy anything with Oldahm or Dewalt. Dewalt has supposedly come out wiht a new blade but don't know nothing about it.
    GC Schmidt in New Jersey will sharpen your blades and have them back really fast. About .25 per tooth. i think MichiganFarmer on here sharpens blades. I like mine done with a 600 finish. Most only use a 400. Forrest will also sharpen blades. Pick up a copy of Fine Woodworking of Popular Woodworking, there are ads in there. Or go to the Fine Woodworking Knots forum and ask around.
     
  4. michiganfarmer

    michiganfarmer Max Supporter

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    http://www.circlesaw.com/amana images/Amana Saw Blades/142610504-612604large.jpg

    This is the type of blade I recomend to everyone who asks about a good general purpose table saw blade. Its called a planer combination. It will rip, and crosscut, and do a very nice job in either application. Systi-matic, amana, delta, and freud all make a good quality planer combination for between $45, and $65.

    I used to sharpen lots of those pirahna blades, but I dont see them anymore.
    I charge $.25 per tooth to sharpen carbide saw blades, and I use a combination grinding wheel that finishes with 600 grit.
     
  5. papaw

    papaw Well-Known Member

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    michiganfarmer,
    I've got a couple that I'd like to have sharpened in a little. Will you post your address or send it to me PM so I can save it for the time?

    Thanks
     
  6. Rockin'B

    Rockin'B Well-Known Member

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    Michiganfarmer,

    Do you also sharpen regular carbide blades for hand held circular saws? If so, I have plenty and would like to have them done.
     
  7. Columbia,SC.

    Columbia,SC. Thats MR. Redneck to you

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    Marathon blades for the saw, tablesaw, miter saw.. about $9.00 for the 7 1/4" and $30 for the 10", I can hit them on the bench grinder to Help them out, I always keep a few on hand to cut FREESTYLE on metal, nails, bricks, ect.
    They cut a thin path and last, not as long as when they first came out but pretty nice!
     
  8. crafty2002

    crafty2002 Well-Known Member

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    I will probably get laughed out of here for this but I used to build a lot of screened in decks or put roofs over existing decks and screen them in and would by 2" x 10" 's treated boards and rip the 1/4" trim strips to secure the screen from them. I also cut the 1 1/2' pickets for hand rails on new decks from 2x10's also. Ripping treated lumber will dull a blade fast.
    When the blade got dull, I would drive an 8 d nails into the narrow side of a scrap of 2x4 and very slowly cut it 3 or 4 times and beleive it or not, it will put an edge back on a blade.
    If you cut too fast you'll break the teeth but if you move very slowly, it will sharpen them.
    I found this out years ago by accident. I had to cut some flooring up and replace some of it and couldn't see the nails so I went to the truck and got an old blade and put it on the saw to do it with.
    I knew I would have to cut slow or I would just junk the blade fast but the more I cut the sharper it got. It seems like I hit about 8 or10 nails and just eased through them and to my surprise, it came out sharp. :shrug:
    I know ya'll thinking :rolleyes: , but as God is my wittness, it works if you take your time. :hobbyhors
     
  9. TNHermit

    TNHermit Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I don't know exactly whats happening but what you are doing is putting a negative hook on the blade. Hopefully Michigan Farmer will come along and explain. I would think that these have to be steel blades. I don't know how that could work on crbide since it chips. I wouldn't make this a practice unless I knew what kind of steel I was dealing with.
     
  10. michiganfarmer

    michiganfarmer Max Supporter

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    If these blades are for your own use...I mean not so you can make a profit, I iwll sharpen them for nothing. You just pay the shipping both ways.

    http://professionaltool.com/

    Professional Tool Service
    1220 woodmere Ave
    Traverse City, MI
    49686

    Max Lown
    231-941-8003
     
  11. michiganfarmer

    michiganfarmer Max Supporter

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    Yes I do. My main income is from carbide tipped saw blades. I do the 7-1/4" for $4 each if there are more than 10.

    I will do a couple blades for nothing for "homesteaders/farmers" useing them for their own use, but if you are making money with them, or have a lot of them I need to get somethiing.
     
  12. michiganfarmer

    michiganfarmer Max Supporter

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    Marathons are very good blades. THey hold their teeth very well, and the bodies dont warp. Warping, and tooth loss are common problems with inexpensive blades.
     
  13. michiganfarmer

    michiganfarmer Max Supporter

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    what happens when a blade gets dull is the sharp cuting point gets rounded. Its like trying to cut wood with a peice of pipe. Im sure many of you have seen teeth that are rounded off a tiney bit right on the cutting edge. When you are runing the blade on a nail it is wearing the blade a little bit, and getting rid of the roundness. This might work once, but it is not putting any releife on the tooth. What Imean by that is the tooth is suppose to angle down from the cutting tip so the tip is cutting, but the metal behind the tip is not rubbing the wood you are tryign to cut.
     
  14. Rockin'B

    Rockin'B Well-Known Member

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    All of my saw blades are for home use and 4.00 each is a deal to me. I'll take a look at the blades I have at home and see how many need attention.

    Thanks