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Discussion Starter #1
UGGGG Venting here. We have had issues with good broken patterns across our mini rexes noses in particular. We have had many many with a marking on only one side. Or the markings down their backs is off center. Or we breed and expect some brokens and get ALL solids! This doe was on her last attempt and 3rd time was hte charm. SHe had them in teh box and everything but there was only 2 and one was large and she appeared to have had a bit of difficulty so both were dead. The one was the most gorgeously even marked broken I have seen here yet :( We will repeat the breeding this weekend and pray we can get another good one.
At least we have 3 blues shaping up nicely. Out of approx 40 babies bred we have 3 that we will hang onto and show this fall. Is this a normal percentage when you are culling heavily for shows?
THanks
Melissa
 

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Enjoying Polish Rabbits
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From reading on here, that's the impression I get. If I recall correctly, Reauxman has made comments about about the few in a hundred that are ideal. I just got my first rabbits with broken patterns - a cross bred rabbit with some English Spot in her. She had nine kits and sat on seven of them. Of course the most beautifully marked (nice butterfly noses) were not in the two that survived!
 

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Duchess of Cynicism
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I noticed that, as well-- the better marked ones always have something happen- does that mean"Murphy's Law" is more strongly enforced?- I myself, prefer the solid colors--but I really appreciate a good symmetrical, defined color pattern on anything that is multi-colored. I hope, that by breeding a broken baby I have now, whose patterning is perfectly symmetrical, but is a charlie, to a solid I purchased, that perhaps I can get a real good broken. The fella I purchased the solids from wanted one of my brokens-- I actually picked the baby for him-- let him have one that was not a Charlie, and whose color was clear of any 'muddiness' and went from tip to skin. I figured what the heck-- we both got something we wanted, and I wasn't out any money!!!(My one traded for his two)
Melissa where in Mi are you? Perhaps I may have something you can use at some point....
 

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Brokens are not that hard to get right, it is the dutch(and often english spots, checkered giants, hotots and harlies) that you get good showable markings less frequently.

If you are having problems with distribution, take a charlie to a solid. You will get 100% brokens, and often nice patterns. Don't fret over the distribution, I've had many poorly maked brokens take BOB and even a BIS. I don't like to use REWS in a broken project, as you have no idea what the pattern is on a broken REW.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am up just a bit North of Grand Rapids. This is supposed to be my son's project but I have really gotten to love the broken blue's in particular and since blue's are his main color we can work well together. At this point I have not even attempted to show in open. The competition from Lowing's, Silance's and a few others I can't recall off the top of my head make it very tough to compete at all. Once I get a decent one I will begin to put them on the table. Broken's I have noticed is a VERY difficult class with very large numbers and very nice quality animlas to choose from.
Melissa
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This was a broken blue to broken blue mating and there was the perfect marked broken blue baby but the other appears solid. I know that occasionally you get brokens that are so heavily marked they look solid but I cannot remember what to look for that will tell you the solid is indeed broken. Since they were only newborns I am only going on the skin coloration.
Thanks again!,
Melissa
 

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If they are solid visually, chances are they are genetic solids.

Usually a solid out of brokens runs a large chance of having white nails, pits or pads. A solid rabbit with white pits or a white nail isn't a genetic broken in most cages, just a solid with a flaw.

You picked a very difficult color to work with. Dilutes are hard to do, but if enough dilutes are being shown for a leg, you can win it on an even surface in classes and BOV/BOSV. With brokens all colors show together, so the dilutes are showing against the non-dilutes, making it hard to win.

If I was you I would keep my solid blues and work with a broken such as black or chocolate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OH!! I was under the impression that broken to broken meant nothing but broken (or charlies). Thanks!!
As for colors......I like the dilutes :) I know that the blacks and castors are the most developed and hence the broken varieties of them are the ones that usually take the class. We have had judges make comments on the patterns of some of our bunns that we have shown (And that was when we did have blacks). Too heavily marked, not evenly marked. To be honest, when the line down the back is off center it makes the whole rabbit appear to be unbalaced in type. And the ones that are missing a marking on one side of the nose we have not even shown as I believe that is a DQ? We do have a very nice solid choco buck that we just picked up at the last show and are waiting on a pedigree for but he was gotten to work with lilacs :)
It is going to be frustraing and I am not looking to win but I would like to at least have somehting to present that isn't going to get laughed off the table.
melissa
 

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Off balanced nose marking is a fault in MR I believe. I know it isn't a DQ.

If you see a line down the back, you need more color. Brokens tend to do best with either a thick, bold parch along the spine with spots over the flanks or a blanket. The problem with blankets is they are often over 50%.

I'll do the broken gene again(seems it was just last week I explained it...lol). Lets say A is broken and a isn't. (A's are easy as they are different in the forms, unlike X which one is just smaller)

aa-solid
Aa-good broken
AA-charlie

Crossing 2 rabbits that are Aa will give 25% aa, 25% AA and 50% Aa.

Crossing two charlies(AA) will give all charlies.

Crossing a charlie to a good broken will result in half charlies and half good brokens.

Crossing a solid to a charlie will give 100% good brokens or Aa.
 

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Reauxman said:
I'll do the broken gene again(seems it was just last week I explained it...lol). Lets say A is broken and a isn't. (A's are easy as they are different in the forms, unlike X which one is just smaller)

aa-solid
Aa-good broken
AA-charlie

Crossing 2 rabbits that are Aa will give 25% aa, 25% AA and 50% Aa.

Crossing two charlies(AA) will give all charlies.

Crossing a charlie to a good broken will result in half charlies and half good brokens.

Crossing a solid to a charlie will give 100% good brokens or Aa.

Forget thee not, this info--[/B]

The ' tennet square" referenced above is only true in the BIG picture, and does not necessarily apply to each and every breeding.

After all, Mother Nature loves to play tricks on us all :p
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OH Duh!! now I feel rather dumb. And I have done plenty of punnet squares for color combos. I don't know why it was stuck in my head that broken to broken = broken. I must be starting senior moments or something or other :shrug:
Melissa
 

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Wildfire_Jewel said:
OH Duh!! now I feel rather dumb. And I have done plenty of punnet squares for color combos. I don't know why it was stuck in my head that broken to broken = broken. I must be starting senior moments or something or other :shrug:
Melissa
oh no-- no 'senior moments' in this group :) we just have rabbits on the brain, and our thoughts are so busy hopping around that we jump over a bit of memory now and then. My broken rexes, paired together, have produced solid and broken- I know the female had a solid mother and broken father.- The broken buck over the Dutch marked mutt bunny has 3 charlies and three solids in that litter (4 remaining) When I breed the broken rex buck to the Florida White, I will see if the result is a surprising as the two little fuzzy grey agouti kits she had.

Now that's a way to learn the broken genetics, ain't it? :p
 
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