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Good Morning. I just moved in to a home on a well for the first time. We've been there about a month with no issues. This morning (colder than normal, frost on the ground, not typical for this area) the water pressure was fine while I brushed my teeth, but about 5 minutes later, my wife was trying to fill a cup with water and we had very little water pressure. I checked other faucets to make sure it wasn't just that one, but pressure had dropped across the entire system. I walked out to the well tank and discovered that the Penn F93B-1 Air Volume Control was bleeding air from the air valve, and the pressure in the tank (according the gauge) had dropped significantly. I did not note any other abnormalities at the well tank.

This is all new to me. What is going on here? What needs to be fixed? Thank you in advance for any and all assistance!

 

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What needs to be fixed?
The part that's leaking, although without air in the tank your pump should be running, trying to keep up the pressure setting.

You'll need to shut everything off, drain the pressure tank, repair the leak and then refill with air to a pressure about 2 lbs less than the lower setting on your pressure control switch.
 

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Knowing the pressure tank make and model would be useful as it would help determine if your tank has a bladder or not -- procedures vary thereafter.

No markings? Ensure Shrader valve is working properly and holds pressure -- a Schrader valve is the same as the valve in vehicle tires and the stem (internal) is easily replaced. If Shrader valve is operating properly, listen to the sound that is made when you add air to the tank. If it sounds similar to when you add air to a tire, you have a bladder tank -- if you hear bubbles, either your tank has no bladder or has been compromised.

You will also need to know the on/off settings on your pressure switch to move forward.
 

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Can you tell if the pump motor has power? Is it going on and then off right away? You have to start there, at the line pressure switch. If the water pressure at the pump is going rapidly , low/ high, low/ high--then you have a pressure tank problem. If the pressure is dead and the pump motor isn't starting, then the pressure switch needs to be replaced. You probably have a combination of both--caused by the tank being waterlogged, the pump going on and off rapidly-- and causing the contacts on the pressure switch to burn out. Also check your fuse(s).

All else would point to a pump problem--loss of prime, screen plugged, lower water level in the well, blown pump motor, and you don't want to go there until you hafta.

geo
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just got home from work and the tank is showing 50 PSI and no leaks. Everything seems to be fine. Is there a chance that the freezing weather this morning caused a seal or something to be loose?
 

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My mind goes to your well not being able to keep up with the use. Being in FL no way was the cold anywhere near cold enough to have an effect.

There might be other reasons and others will jump in with thoughts.
 

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My mind goes to your well not being able to keep up with the use. Being in FL no way was the cold anywhere near cold enough to have an effect.

There might be other reasons and others will jump in with thoughts.
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................Some wells have a one way , check valve installed above the pump ! This valve allows the pump to PUSH water , UP the pipe through the check valve and into your pressure tank . When the pressure in the tank reaches the upper limit cutoff pressure of say 60psi , the pressure switch turns OFF the well motor . Now , without the check valve , the pressure tank would literally PUSH the pressurized water BACK down the pipe and your pressure tank would be empty . SO , the pressure tank is pushing against the check valve and when you turn ON the faucet it pushes the water into your home !
..............ALL modern pressure tanks have an air bladder inside of them with a valve stem connected to the outside of the tank such that you can pump air into them just like a car tire . They should be inflated to 2psi BELOW the low side kickIN pressure on the pressure switch............................SO , if the pressure switch turns ON the pump @50 psi , the air bladder should be inflated too 48psi ! The proper procedure to do this is1) Turn OFF the pressure switch , and 2)allow ALL water in the tank to drain OUT , because the air bladder cannot fully inflate inside the tank IF there is any water still residing there !
................When you turn the pressure switch back ON , the pump will fill the tank to the high side pressure and compress the air bladder until the pump shuts OFF . The air bladder is now very compressed and it pushes the water out of the tank and into your home . , fordy
 

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Is there a chance that the freezing weather this morning caused a seal or something to be loose?
Freezing weather can cause lots of problems, but it shouldn't.
Put a heat source of some type in your pump house.
A single light bulb can make all the difference.
 

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Not ringing any alarms here, but:

Usually, plumbers and electricians won't deal with pumps and well systems. If you can find a label somewhere on the system referring to the well guy who installed it or has worked on it previously that will be good information to keep handy. Obviously, you will keep an eye on the situation, and if it happens again you will have the person to contact. Remember, many systems are 230 volts and you are in wet situations. You'll want someone who knows what they are doing. Also, if you get into a situation where the water is spitting hard through the pipes, keep in mind that the turbulence can blow the resin out of your water softener--so close the bypass valve until you figure it out.

Just a couple of thoughts.

geo
 
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