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Welder choice ???

3913 Views 25 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  horselogger
My old Lincoln 225 amp, AC buzz box is getting tired. The amp selection switch is getting funky and hard to adjust in the low ranges. Its been good to me tho and I've used it hard more than once. One of the things I never liked much about it tho is the 15 amp increments between amp settings.

I'm thinking I'd like to replace it with another machine. The criteria for the new machine follows

It must be a stick welder (I've got a Lincoln 110VAC wire feed)
AC/DC
Copper windings---not aluminum
amp range up to at least 200

I know Lincoln makes a machine with all the above criteria but I'd also be stuck with the 15 amp increment in the selector switch.

Miller makes a similar machine with a selector switch that can be more closely zeroed in. Are they any good? Any other suggestions?
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Hi:
Regarding comments on electrodes for stick welding (SMAW or shielded metal arc welding), this site is short and clear.

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/weldrod.html

It lists elctrode numbering systems and ac/dc uses, and compares the few most common electrodes and their uses.

owhn
comfortablynumb said:
maybe you could teach us (me in particular) what the trick is to using those wire fed welders...
I got one that uses flux core wire or argon gas and i cant make a decent weld to save my butt... and i do try.
I know that you must change the electrode polarity when you change from flux to shielded gas. That will make a world of difference!!! On my Hobart, I simply open the spool access panel and switch the cable....very easy! When welding light guage metal (like auto body...or in my case, my sheetmetal on my tractor) it is important to go with the lightest guage wire you can get, and use shielding gas.... (when using shielding gas, weld where you are protected from the wind, otherwise your gas will be blown away before you can strike the arch)

I was told that it is a very good idea to go to the wrecking yard and get a POS hood, door, trunk lid, what ever and practice on it before you start your project.... if you have the space, keep it around and practice every now and then too.... (of course I do not practice this.... I have not struck an arch in over a year :rolleyes: )

Good luck...hope it helps some....
MMyers1 said:
I know that you must change the electrode polarity when you change from flux to shielded gas. That will make a world of difference!!! On my Hobart, I simply open the spool access panel and switch the cable....very easy! When welding light guage metal (like auto body...or in my case, my sheetmetal on my tractor) it is important to go with the lightest guage wire you can get, and use shielding gas.... (when using shielding gas, weld where you are protected from the wind, otherwise your gas will be blown away before you can strike the arch)

I was told that it is a very good idea to go to the wrecking yard and get a POS hood, door, trunk lid, what ever and practice on it before you start your project.... if you have the space, keep it around and practice every now and then too.... (of course I do not practice this.... I have not struck an arch in over a year :rolleyes: )

Good luck...hope it helps some....
Hey John
Have you not gotten hold of a weld yet? I told you to come and get my old Forney 250. I don't understand why I have not seen you, [maybe the distance] just had to get in here again. Hope you found one by now.
Ken in Minn.
I have used a Miller Thunderbolt for about twenty years now. I would guess it has at least one thousand hours on it. Works great.

Ken S. in WC TN
a couple of things;hobart and miller are actually made in in the same factory in,I believe,apple wisconson. 7018 is fine,but please bear in mind that it only is a medium penetration rod- for most mild steel 7014 is a better and easier rod to use. I am not a pro,but I can weld overhead so that things like 2-3 tons of steel beams don't land on me!!!Lee
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