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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My plumbing system is a sand point shallow well.

I've noticed that my pump kicks on even though I haven't run any water for hours or during the night. I've checked every faucet, the washing machine and water heater.

I just checked the air tank and it was at 26 lbs. the same as the water pressure gauge.

My kitchen faucet thumps intermittently when I run it. It's not water hammer because it happens even when the water is running. It doesn't do it all the time and I'm not sure that it's related to the pump kicking on without running water.

My two best guesses are a leaky check valve (which I really hope is not the problem) OR the bladder in my pressure tank is shot. I'm leaning towards a worn out bladder.

Any suggestions on what I may have missed?
 

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Can you isolate the system? If there is a good valve between the tank and the house, you could close that valve. If the problem goes away, the issue is between the valve and the house. Good luck.
 

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If the bladder is shot the pump would kick in as soon as you start running water and perhaps kick in quickly a few times when just shut off as no 'cushion' but once pumped up and shut off should not kick in till pressure at switch drops off which it should not unless there is a leak someplace. If you are able to isolate the house from the pump and tank as the previous poster suggests and it still does it then it probably IS a leaking check, that would seem to be the most probable problem baring some kind of leak.
 

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My plumbing system is a sand point shallow well.

I've noticed that my pump kicks on even though I haven't run any water for hours or during the night. I've checked every faucet, the washing machine and water heater.

I just checked the air tank and it was at 26 lbs. the same as the water pressure gauge.

My kitchen faucet thumps intermittently when I run it. It's not water hammer because it happens even when the water is running. It doesn't do it all the time and I'm not sure that it's related to the pump kicking on without running water.

My two best guesses are a leaky check valve (which I really hope is not the problem) OR the bladder in my pressure tank is shot. I'm leaning towards a worn out bladder.

Any suggestions on what I may have missed?
Ceck your on off switch first. The points could be sticking. Next check the pressure in bladder tank. You may have to replace the Bladder no big deal. The last time my bladder went back i just replaced the tank with a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions.

Unfortunately I didn't put any any valves to isolate the tank or the house.

Should the tank pressure mirror the pump pressure?

I don't see how a switch would bleed off the pressure? It's not turning on and then off a few seconds later. Would that rule out the bladder being bad?

I did notice that when showering the pump kicks on and then off after maybe 15 seconds with the water flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Small after thought, if it has just started happening recently there COULD be a pin hole in the pressure tank bladder however once the bladder is fully waterlogged my previous comments apply!
That would make sense according to my understand of the pressure tank. I'm now wondering if maybe that is where the small amount of air has been coming from that makes my kitchen faucet "thump" sometimes.
 
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If the water is disappearing from the system, it is probably the check valve. If it is thumping and surging is might me the bladder. Does it stop thumping if you let it run awhile?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the water is disappearing from the system, it is probably the check valve. If it is thumping and surging is might me the bladder. Does it stop thumping if you let it run awhile?
It generally thumps when I first start it full blast and sometimes it seems to matter whether it's hot or cold.. If I open it slowly it doesn't. At other times it might thump even after being run a while say maybe 30 seconds. It seems to be more likely to thump at full throttle because I can make it stop thumping by slowing the water flow.

It is starting to sound like the check valve. I'll have to dig out my cheater pipes for the pipe wrenches.
 

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It generally thumps when I first start it full blast and sometimes it seems to matter whether it's hot or cold.. If I open it slowly it doesn't. At other times it might thump even after being run a while say maybe 30 seconds. It seems to be more likely to thump at full throttle because I can make it stop thumping by slowing the water flow.

It is starting to sound like the check valve. I'll have to dig out my cheater pipes for the pipe wrenches.

Sounds like a check valve. How deep is the well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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The problem? my pump kicks on even though I haven't run any water for hours or during the night.

I have a drip at the kitchen faucet. The faucet is 70 years old so no cartridge or parts available. My sandpoint well pump kicks on every few hours. I don't know what causes the thump but it sounds like you have a slow leak. The most common is the flapper in the toilet leaking from the tank to the bowl. Could also be the fill valve doesn't shut completely off so the water in the tank gets too high and goes into the overflow tube and into the tank.

Take the lid off the tank and see if the water level is up to the top of the overflow tube. If not then put a bit of food coloring in the tank and wait a few hours. If the food coloring shows up in the bowl then the flapper is leaking.

This time of year it could be the outside spigot was damaged by freezing and is leaking. You probably wouldn't find any water inside because its going outside.

There could be a leak in the piping. Wait several hours without running the water so there is no condensation then feel the pipe looking for wet.

Remember, if you are caught or killed we will disavow any knowledge of your actions.
 

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On something shallow like that, I would put up a trypod pull it and replace the check valve.
Driven sandpoint wells don't have a foot valve at the bottom of the casing. They stay full of water because the casing is airtight, there is a check valve above ground just before the pump, and water molecules are attracted to each other so the water column in the casing doesn't separate. Columns of water can only be about 25 feet. More than that and gravity overcomes the attraction between molecules and the column separates.

I don't think they have figured out how trees overcome that limit and get sap up to the top hundreds of feet up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yesterday I tried to get some food dye for the toilet tank but the store was out. I did do a test on the toilet tank today. I flushed it using a bucket of water poured into the toilet bowl hard enough that the resulting water level in the bowl was just barely deep enough to make a seal to keep out the methane. After several hours the water in the toilet bowl was the normal depth.

I've tried listening to that telltale spray of water going into the tank but it's silent.
 

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Nice ingenuity in figuring out an alternative test for a tank to bowl leak. Getta remember that one. New flappers come in a couple of different styles. Be sure to check yours before going to the store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Today I flushed the toilet and when the tank had refilled I shut the valve off. After sitting most of the day the tank level hasn't changed a bit and neither has the bowl level.
 
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Today I flushed the toilet and when the tank had refilled I shut the valve off. After sitting most of the day the tank level hasn't changed a bit and neither has the bowl level.
Is it possible that there isn't enough recovery in the pipe? And you're using water faster than the water strata can replenish. Or maybe the screen is plugged a bit restricting flow.
We are putting in a sandpoint well at our cabin so I've been checking them out. We are using 2" pipe. Instead ot 1-1/4" pipe. And a 4' long sandpoint head with 5 micron stainless screen.
For a pump I'm planning on using a surflow. 12v. Above ground. Comes with its own pressure switch 40-60 psi. With a 1/2" tube down the pipe with another filter on the end. Or maybe 3/8" tubing if I need more lift. The pump cost was near 80 bucks. All in for less than a c bill.
Another option I've researched was a 1-7/8" submersible pump that drops down a 2" pipe. Then it pumps up.
Along the way I somehow learned a couple things. The pump screen can get clogged. Both during the installation and while developing the cavity. It can be cleaned by blowing air down it . To blow mud n stuff out of the screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Is it possible that there isn't enough recovery in the pipe? And you're using water faster than the water strata can replenish. Or maybe the screen is plugged a bit restricting flow.
We are putting in a sandpoint well at our cabin so I've been checking them out. We are using 2" pipe. Instead ot 1-1/4" pipe. And a 4' long sandpoint head with 5 micron stainless screen.
For a pump I'm planning on using a surflow. 12v. Above ground. Comes with its own pressure switch 40-60 psi. With a 1/2" tube down the pipe with another filter on the end. Or maybe 3/8" tubing if I need more lift. The pump cost was near 80 bucks. All in for less than a c bill.
Another option I've researched was a 1-7/8" submersible pump that drops down a 2" pipe. Then it pumps up.
Along the way I somehow learned a couple things. The pump screen can get clogged. Both during the installation and while developing the cavity. It can be cleaned by blowing air down it . To blow mud n stuff out of the screen.
The sandpoint could be plugging up but I don't think that would cause the pump to kick on throughout the day and night with no water running. I'm beginning to think I should replace the check valve. They aren't expensive or at east weren't expensive when I have bought them in the past. I'm just trying to avoid stressing my back.
 
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