surge milkers

Discussion in 'Goats' started by billooo2, Mar 13, 2005.

  1. billooo2

    billooo2 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Is anyone currently using a Surge milking system?

    I am buying a surge milker. I am running electric to the building where I will be using it. I had assumed that it uses 110. An electrician friend of mine said that since it involves a vacuum pump it may need 220.

    I am wondering if I need to wire for 220????....(I was not planning to....)
     
  2. Milking Mom

    Milking Mom COTTON EYED DOES

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    What kind of system are you getting? Is it an all in one unit complete with the vacuum pump and motor? Is it coming from a company? is there a website so we can look at it? I put together my own milking set up. I purchased the surge bucket and lid from eBay, got the Surge pulsator, teat cups, and inflations from Hamby Dairy Supply, bought the hoses, etc. from Home Depot. Got the Vacuum pump from Ebay and bought the motor from Tractor supply. It is a pully type (V-belt from the motor to the vacuum pump). Mine is a 3/4 HP Motor and it is 110.
     

  3. Lt. Wombat

    Lt. Wombat Well-Known Member

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    We run our Surge SP11 on 220v because it's cheaper. We keep the pump itself outside (due to oil vapor) then hard pipe the vacuum inside the barn. The vacuum pipe has 3 valves that run 3 buckets at a time milking 6 girls at a time.
     
  4. reneeearle

    reneeearle Well-Known Member

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    Can you give me a more detailed list of what all you got for your milker???? I bought my bucket and lid on ebay, which has the metal teat cups, and a pulsator, set up for a cow, I planned to extend the hoses, and milk two at a time. I just won a vacuum pump on ebay, hope it is the right size. All I need is the new inflations, and new hoses. Do I still need a motor? Can I be nosey and ask what your final investment was?
     
  5. billooo2

    billooo2 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    The vaccum pump and everything is Surge.....it is an old system....it looks like what my grandfather used. It is a model SP-11. I have an manual which shows how to take it all apart....but nothing about 110 vs. 220.
     
  6. billooo2

    billooo2 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    final investment, including shipping, was about $500.
     
  7. vresak

    vresak New Member

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    Can I use original surge shell for goat milking?
    If I can, what do I have to change on them?
    Thanks
     
  8. shelbynteg

    shelbynteg Well-Known Member

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    How much cheaper on 220v, and what modifications to the pump or motor were required? thanks.
     
  9. Lt. Wombat

    Lt. Wombat Well-Known Member

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    Hummm, I don't know the exact monetary savings but the co-op manager said it was worth it over the long term.

    The motor on our pump is 1hp; 1725 rpm’s and draws 6 amps on 220v or 13 amps on 110v, so you can see there is a sizeable difference. If I remember right it had to do with the initial "kick" starting it up (motor/pump) then needing less "kick" to keep it moving.

    No pump modification is needed just make sure you achieve the proper rpm’s for the best pump performance. Ours is adjusted by changing the motor pulley as the Surge pump has a huge fixed pulley.

    No real modification to the motor is needed aside from changing the plug end; just make sure it is dual power rated! Some are 110v only so make double sure!!

    Our motor runs 1725 rpm’s no matter what power source is pushing it. The only thing you need do is change the motors wiring inside the junction box so it’s wired for 230v (220). Ours has a diagram inside the junction box cover that shows both set ups. Total time to make the swap was 2 minutes and that was due to doing a double then a triple check.

    We use a standard looking light switch inside to power the thing on/off. It looks like a standard but is actually a commercial duty rated one good for up to 600v. Lowe’s had them for $6.

    My only other recommendation is to take the pump totally apart and clean it out good. Ours was full of mud dauber nests, spider webs and pump oil that had dried to an asphalt consistency. Be sure to mark the top half to the bottom because if you assemble it 180 degrees out it will blow oil vapor all over the place and make an awful noise.

    There should be 2 little copper tabs hanging down off each side of the crank that dips into the oil with each stroke. If they’re missing figure something out to replace them as they are essential to proper oiling.

    Hope this helps. If you need more information don’t hesitate to ask.
     
  10. Milking Mom

    Milking Mom COTTON EYED DOES

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