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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The vehicle is a 1982 Datsun diesel pickup, only 88,000 miles. Been stored 4 years in a dirt-floor garage. Ran and drove 4 fine years ago. I got it home, got it running, replaced the hydraulic clutch master and slave, so all that works and the clutch fork moves.

The clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel. Most folks recommend kind of lightly jerking on the truck with a tractor while in gear with the pedal depressed. Since it is in my shop now, my proposal is to warm up the engine, then put the rear on jack stands, start the truck in gear, push in the clutch pedal and hit the brakes a few times.

I have already tried turning over the starter in gear, that usualy breaks loose lightly rusted ones. No go. Also tried someone's suggestion to jack up one rear wheel and try to spin the tire back and forth. Nope.

I really don't want to drop the tranny to fix this. If I do, I'll have to spend money, too, since I won't drop it and just re-use old clutch parts while I'm in there.

Any other suggestions?
 

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I had that problem with a super A tractor. I had two options, split the tractor in half or try pulling in gear. I went with the pulling. Under the housing I removed a small dust cover and sprayed penetrating oil around the clutch pressure plate, just a little or the clutch will absorb enough to ruin it . Then I hooked a chain to the tractor and pickup and started to pull it in gear, It broke loose, knock on wood. Im not advising you to do that, But thats what I did. :) Forgot to mention the clutch pedal has to be pressed down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, Eddie, that's what they say to do. I'm going to try the brakes thing first, though, because otherwise I have to get it out of the shop first before I can pull it around.

Gotta get this so I can move it out of the way...


So I can start again working on this...
 

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Have this problem every spring with my sports car. With one person pushing on the pedal to relieve pressure I use a long screwdriver through the opening for checking timing and slip between the clutch plate and flywheel. Works every time for me
 

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You might be able to do it by going through the throwout bearings control arm's port. But understand I am not familiar with Datsuns. An L shaped custom made tool may also work through the starters mounting area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought about the control arm opening, too, moopups. It'll all depend on how the clutch cover (pressure plate) is designed. Thought I'd check that first this weekend.
 

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I have the manual if there's anything you need me to scan and email.

Is that truck for sale? I'm looking for a donor for my Diesel drivetrain. I drive an 81 diesel with 245K on the clock

 

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Common ******* aproach that works quite well is to jack the rear of the offending vehicle up. Start it and rev it up a fair bit in gear. With the clutch pedal pushed down, and your foot on the throttle, blow the jack and hang on.

May take a time or two to break it free. Provides much merryment while doing the job. Make sure you say a "whoo wee" a time or to, as well as a "dang".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to everyone for their help. I am happy to report that jacking up the rear end, starting the truck, depressing the clutch pedal, and slamming the brakes on a couple of times worked.

seger1, sorry but I'd have to be crazy to sell this truck. It was my FIL's truck (he's gone now) and has just 88,000 actual miles. She's going on the road, and she's due a paint job eventually. Nice truck you have there. What kind of mileage can I expect? Some folks have told me they can get 40 mpg. I'll probably cruise eBay for a factory manual. I have one for my '89 Stanza. Armed with one of those, I can rebuild it front to back if need be.
 

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I wouldn't sell it either. Is it a diesel? Mine gets 44 mpg if I drive conservatively. No going fast ever. Its a tractor. I got my manual on ebay for $26. Best money I've spent on the truck so far. Keep us informed on the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, it is a diesel. Thanks for the mileage info. I have even considered a small junkyard turbo and waste gate addition...lol... Yer right, they are just like a tractor engine. Naturally aspirated and it ... takes ... oh ... so ... long for it to get up to speed. :) Mine's a 5-speed; I think all the diesels were manual.

They are definitely not made for going fast. I used to ride around with FIL while he putted along. The truck still has some small items of his in it. He had two diesel Datsuns. Once I busted the flywheel loose (it was about 11 p.m.) I tootled around the local area a bit in it, expired tag and all. There was no traffic then. I had not even remembered it was manual steering til then.

What it needs now is a repair to the muffler/tailpipe connection and an idler arm, before I'd ever let it go out on the road. A/C doesn't work, I'll have to jump the pressure gauge to see if it's the compressor clutch or just low charge. Has a cracked windshield, too, but that is no big deal down here. Though I'd like to replace it sometime before the paint job. :shrug: I have $650 total in it as of now, and that includes new fuel, and all new filters. I figure if I can get it completely roadable (to my standards) and everything working again for $1,000 or so, how can I lose?

People are pulling these old vehicles out of everywhere here now. I see old VW Pickups, Rabbits, Beetles, old Toyotas...all kinds of old stuff...since fuel prices went through the roof.
 

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Jim S. said:
People are pulling these old vehicles out of everywhere here now. I see old VW Pickups, Rabbits, Beetles, old Toyotas...all kinds of old stuff...since fuel prices went through the roof.
They are impossible to find around here (Texas). I paid $1800 for mine with a 1/4 million miles. The body is nice, chassis needs every wearable part replaced. I got an NOS idler arm on ebay this week for $11. Check out http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php . There is tons of knowledge here and a very high signal to noise ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dang, I need an idler arm. They are $65 in stores. Thanks for the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks. Advance and Auto Zone no longer carry the kits, just the arms. I'll try the NAPA route. Pretty sure this is OE. It is WAAAY worse that those pictured in the link. All I need is the time to do that and reweld the tailpipe on the muffler and she's ready to tag!
 
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