stove pipe reducer

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by tonasket, Sep 9, 2005.

  1. tonasket

    tonasket Well-Known Member

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    we bought a blazeking woodstove that takes a 8 inch pipe, state has pollution laws against that size, only allows 6 inch,(even though tons and tons of people use one, they CAN be fined if so desired by the authorities) the local fireplace store sells a reducer that fits on top of the stove, goes from 8 to 6 inches, has anyone done this? they say there won't be a problem, just wondering if there's anyone with experience with this, thanks
     
  2. comfortablynumb

    comfortablynumb Well-Known Member

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    depends on the stove it might make it backpuff
     

  3. Alex

    Alex Well-Known Member

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    Vancouver, and Moberly Lake, BC, Canada
    I didn't know that WA would not allow a Blaze King Catalytic stove to be burned with ANY manufactures' recommended flue size. Did you check with Blaze King in WA?

    Most heating appliances are NOT allowed to have their flue reduced -- with any fule. It is NOT a good idea to reduce a flue on any applicance.

    Also, the Blaze King is so highly efficient, it can burn even in burning ban times.

    We love our Blaze King -- start it and that's it for the season -- hardly needs ash removal -- burning pine and spruce flue is clean. And, except for the logs over 12" -- no splitting is needed -- the stove just eats it up and burns hot.

    Sure would like to know what Blaze King says about this? And they are made in WA and BC -- they should know.

    Please keep you answers on here for all to see.

    Thanks,

    Alex

    BTW We have full 8" with double wall SS, with 2&1/2" inslation -- what a dream stove -- been using it for the last month and it cuts right back to a somldering log -- still in the active zone all day -- the wide span of auto output is what I like: from 7,000 to 50,000 BTU/Hr, or more if you stand there and chuck wood in.

    [​IMG]
    You probably saw this: our Blaze King in Jan minus 35 F

    [​IMG]
    8" flue with 2&1/2" insulation all around -- Monty and Chris helpers -- Nancy made me hire them to help -- I am happy they did what they did.
     
  4. Andy Nonymous

    Andy Nonymous Registered, here...

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    It depends on several factors, actually. Stove smoke pipes are usually sized according to the free area of the open door, allowing for an "average draft" (the amount of "pull" from the chimney) to keep the smoke going up the flue when you open the door to feed it, rather than having most of the smoke out in the room.

    Reducing the chimney size can be a good thing when an ordinary stove is burning (with the door closed, of course), especially at a 'low burn' when the amount of air is restricted - the smoke takes a long time to go up the chimney, loses a lot of heat along the way, and deposits a lot of those products of incomplete combustion, soot and creosote, along the way, which makes for greater need of frequent shut downs and cleaning of the pipe and chimney, and/or greater risk of chmney fires. Catalytic stoves tend to significantly reduce (though not conpletely eliminate) particulates and creosote. Still, they aren't infallible.

    The key to using a smaller chimney with a larger sized smokepipe outlet, is to make sure your chimney is tall enough to provide a good healthy draft - you should be able to feel a 'pull' even in a cold chimney. As a min, it has to be at least 2 ft above anything within 10 ft of it in any direction, or even taller if necessary, and you have to keep it clean. Burning "hotter" fires (stack temp of 200-300 deg F, 100-150C 3' /1meter from the stove) also helps. The more you choke a fire (restrict the 'draft' air) the dirtier it will burn. Better to use the size and type of the wood put into it to regulate burn rate than stuffing it with pine limbwood and closing the draft to attempt to keep it from burning immediately. Loading too much readily combustible material may lead to what is known as a 'backdraft'. Not a pleasent experience when your stove makes amazingly loud poofing sounds like miniature explosions (which is exactly what they are), belches smoke from every possible opening at a machine gun pace, and may even produce enough 'bang' to split the stove pipe or even damage the stove itself. Small wood only to start a fire - the biggest chunks of dense hard wood you can safely put in for overnight... every stove is different, as is every specie of wood.

    All of this is assuming you have, or will install a SAFE and proper chimney for your woodburner. Don't ever assume than an exiting chimney is good enough for a wood stove unless and until it is inspected by someone who knows the difference between a safe and an unsafe chimney. Your local Code Enforcement Officer would, and believe it or not, his job is not to make your life miserable, but to make sure your house remains on the tax roles as an asset, rather than a pile of ashes.

    I sincerely hope this is not your first stove, nor first year burning wood without having apprenticed with someone well versed in the fine art of it with the particular woods available in your area. Solid fueled heat in the handa of amatures can be more than a little hazardous.

    Any other questions? As references, I've been burning wood for over 27 years, and have served time as a volunteer fire chief for good measure.

    Be safe. Enjoy your wood heat (in that order).

    Alex, it looks from the photo that your stove may be installed too close to the log walls - single wall stoves are 36", double wall stoves are usually 18-24, depending on btu output. What are the manufacturer stated miinimum clearances for the Blaze King?
    Thanks
    Andy
     
  5. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Now I've heard about everything. Such a law makes no sense, and goes _against_ good safe operation. Very odd.

    Actua;;y you got good advice so far; with a real tall chimney a smaller reduced chimney can work fine, but generally it is not allowed by the manufaturer or your insurance or by building code.

    So, you are in a pickle, most likely you have conflicting laws here, building codes not allowing the reduction, & the silly law you mention...

    --->Paul