[Randy Rooster]

I am planning my wood stove location in my new house-

how far does an un insulated stove pipe have to be from a ceiling and also for a wall?

Where the pipe passes through a wall or ceiling does it have to be the insulated type of pipe?

thank you for the help.

Randy

 

[Cabin Fever]

I beleive that single wall stove pipe must be 18" from any combustibles and double wall has to be 9". You must use a "thimble" where the pipe goes thru the ceiling or wall. The thimble will keep the stove pipe the required distance from the ceiling. On the other side of the thimble is triple-wall or insulated double-wall chimney pipe. Chimney pipe has a 2" required clearance from combustibles.

 

[Ross]

Local regs may differ but my understanding of wood stove clearances match Cabins.

 

[tamsam]

We learned the hard way that you can not have to much clearence. We now have the triple wall inslated chimney pipe through the wall to the chemney and it has a bracket to hold it in place. Has about 4 incs all around and doesn't get real warm. It also has fiberglass insulation packed around the pipe. It has plain stove pipe with a damper in it from the heater to the pipe going out. Hope this helps. Sam

 

[WindowOrMirror]

go to duravent's site and look all this up.

Class I chimney pipe (dual or triple walled) must go through an approved shield when passing through walls or floors. You cannot go through anything with single walled pipe.

 

[ET1 SS]

I think that we are 'safe'.

I ran our eight inch stove pipe, single walled right straight through our steel roof. I used a single-walled thimble.

I did it right at the peak, where one side slant meats the other side's slant. A eight inch diameter hole cut in the steel sheet metal. The flashing was hammered to conform to both pitches, and I pop-riveted it in place.

There is no combustible material for 20 foot in any of the four directions of a compass. The closest combustible material would be the wood floor, 14 foot underneath the spot where the stove pipe goes through the roof. But that floor [directly underneath the wood stove] is covered by a pad of concrete.

I poured a eight foot by eight foot pad of black stained concrete that the wood stoves sits on.

 

[Beeman]

I think that we are 'safe'.

I ran our eight inch stove pipe, single walled right straight through our steel roof. I used a single-walled thimble.

I did it right at the peak, where one side slant meats the other side's slant. A eight inch diameter hole cut in the steel sheet metal. The flashing was hammered to conform to both pitches, and I pop-riveted it in place.

There is no combustible material for 20 foot in any of the four directions of a compass. The closest combustible material would be the wood floor, 14 foot underneath the spot where the stove pipe goes through the roof. But that floor [directly underneath the wood stove] is covered by a pad of concrete.

I poured a eight foot by eight foot pad of black stained concrete that the wood stoves sits on.

How do you clean your stovepipe/chimney? Do you clean it from the top or from the bottom? Can you easily walk on your metal roof to clean it?

 

[gccrook]

ET1 SS, did you spray insulation around your Chimney? I remember you were spraying insulation, but do not remember if you were spraying your roof.

 

[ET1 SS]

How do you clean your stovepipe/chimney? Do you clean it from the top or from the bottom? Can you easily walk on your metal roof to clean it?

I can clean the stove pipe very easily from the top, or rock the stove a bit, to loosen the stove pipes going up. There are four sections of stove pipe going up, between the stove and the roof. Rock it a bit and disconnect it from the stove, then all four sections will slide right down out of the thimble and I can take them outside and bang them on the ground, knocking anything out.

I think the building code for snow load here is 80 Pounds, and the company that designed the building over-shot that by close to double, so our roof is engineered for I think around 150 pounds per square inch of snow load. Some crazy amount. The plans are signed by an engineer, though nobody has ever asked to see the plans. Our roof slope is around 1 in 10.

From the peak it goes 20 foot on either side to the side walls, the peak is 14 foot high and the wall eaves are 12 foot high. So in 20 foot of horizontal run, the drop is 2 foot.

I can easily walk on it.

Our building permit, is still good for four more years. A building permit here is good for a total of five years. And when I am finally done building everything, I sign a "certificate of self completion", which states that I have inspected everything and it is up to code. The "certificate of self completion" came in the envelope along with the building permit.

 

[Beeman]

I was wondering how slippery the metal was. How far apart are your trusses? What supports the metal between trusses and what is the distance? I guess with a 1/10 roof pitch it isn't very steep. I would say you are better with high snow load. I traveled thru Missouri right after the big storm in the mid west. I saw quite a few metal buildings like yours that had collapsed from the snow load. These were store bought like yours not home engineered like many.

 

[ET1 SS]

ET1 SS, did you spray insulation around your Chimney? I remember you were spraying insulation, but do not remember if you were spraying your roof.

Yes, I did.

I sprayed foam on the underside of the roof. I covered the sheet metal, and all three exposed sides of rafters. I sprayed on about one inch of foam.

I see what you are saying.

Yes the foam goes right up to the eight inch hole that I cut for the stove pipe.

Our stove is a two-barrel setup, and we have had it amazingly hot. We have ran out of peat, but in the future I intend to have more peat on hand in the fall. Now we have been burning just wood and coal.

I am hanging R-30 fiberglass batting in the walls and ceiling, and wood paneling over that. I have not gotten over to the area of the wood stove yet. Right now I have scaffolding up over the lap-pool and I am working on that end of the building.

I can still see the thimble where it sits going through the roof, it is all exposed so far. The ceiling in the area of the stove has not been done yet.

I will likely put concrete fiberboard in that one section immediately around the hole for the stove pipe, when I get over to that area.

Right now the foam around the thimble is not discoloured, or melted. Maybe when I get to that area of the ceiling I should shift to using rockwool loose-fill rather than the fiberglass. I can get rockwool in batting rolls, though it comes without the backing. I priced both options before I started hanging insulation on the interior. The prices for both were very close to each other.

 

[ET1 SS]

I was wondering how slippery the metal was. How far apart are your trusses? What supports the metal between trusses and what is the distance? I guess with a 1/10 roof pitch it isn't very steep. I would say you are better with high snow load. I traveled thru Missouri right after the big storm in the mid west. I saw quite a few metal buildings like yours that had collapsed from the snow load. These were store bought like yours not home engineered like many.

It is not slippery at all.

The 'trusses' [I have been calling them rafters, whatever], are 45 inches apart OC.

The building has four arches, big steel girders, or a vertical standing piece [600 pounds] bolted to a horizontal piece [450 pounds] that reaches over to the peak and bolts onto another identical one, etc. I drug them around my driveway, lined them up and bolted them together, so I checked the bill of lading for their weights. The crane was only here for three hours to stand them all up for me, while I bolted them onto the anchor bolts.

These four arches are twenty feet apart. Two arches form the ends of the building, and two are mid-sections. The building is a 40 foot by 60 foot.

The foundation contractors did not want to do it without an engineered set of plans for the foundation. I hired a civil engineer to draw plans for the foundation. and his biggest concerns: were high winds lifting on the building, and heavy loads trying to spread the opposing walls. So he put lots of rebar in the foundation, and foundation 'tie-ins' running through the center of the basement connecting the piers under the vertical girders [so the opposing foundation walls could not spread out].

 

[gccrook]

Thanks ET1 SS. THe reason I asked, is because we used insulated double walled pipe through the ceiling and roof, and I was reluctant to have the insulation sprayed very close, but the insulation guy said he does it all the time, including his own home which has been there for over 5 years. So far, no problem at all, but I am not sure hot hot the insulated pipe gets. Since I was worried about it, I bought some ceramic insulation blanket material, and wrapped the outside of the pipe, and then had the insulation sprayed right up to that. Since my roof was decked with OSB, I cut out a large hole for the pipe, then used sheetmetal to cover the hole right up to the pipe so I wouldn't have a gaping area for heat to escape. I fell fairly good about keeping combustibles far enough from the pipe this way.

 

[ET1 SS]

Thanks ET1 SS. THe reason I asked, is because we used insulated double walled pipe through the ceiling and roof, and I was reluctant to have the insulation sprayed very close, but the insulation guy said he does it all the time, including his own home which has been there for over 5 years. So far, no problem at all, but I am not sure hot hot the insulated pipe gets. Since I was worried about it, I bought some ceramic insulation blanket material, and wrapped the outside of the pipe, and then had the insulation sprayed right up to that. Since my roof was decked with OSB, I cut out a large hole for the pipe, then used sheetmetal to cover the hole right up to the pipe so I wouldn't have a gaping area for heat to escape. I fell fairly good about keeping combustibles far enough from the pipe this way.

You need to be happy and reassured that it is okay. If you feel concern about how close the hot pipe is to other things, then you should modify it and do whatever it takes to make you feel secure.

It sounds like you did just that. Good!

The contractor is not the guy who is going to live in the building. You are, and you need to feel right about the methods used.

 

[Beeman]

How did you support your chimney?

 

[ET1 SS]

The stovepipes inside are resting on the stove, and stuffed up into the thimble.

The piece on the roof, rests on the thimble, has flashing around it, and a 'shanty' cap on the top. They are each pop riveted together. The flashing is pop riveted to the pipe and to the roof, and has a liberal layer of caulking.