s-10 4x4 help

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by marvella, Aug 5, 2005.

  1. marvella

    marvella Well-Known Member

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    ok, i'm a girl so take it easy on me. :confused: :sing:

    i have a 93 (I think), s- 10 4x4 pickup. it's a beater farm truck, that i can haul feed, hay, fencing supplies etc. my son borrowed it to move a fridge for a friend. he said it puttered real bad, like it was trying to stall. after he turned it off, it wouldn't start again. he said it has done this before but he was always able to get it started again. of course, i've never had it happen while i was driving it. :bash: he said this time he couldn't get it started at all, and towed it back to my house.

    to me, this sounds like it might be a fuel filter problem?? it tries to turn over, but never catches. a timing belt would go out all at once, wouldn't it?

    so, where might the fuel filter be on this engine?? any guesses? he said he can change it if he can find it.

    thanks one and all for your time and patience.
     
  2. Beeman

    Beeman Well-Known Member

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    This is the old story of it could be anything. No Chevy S-10 that I have seen has a timing belt so you can rule that out. Yes a fuel filter can cause a running/ starting problem and if you have no idea when it was changed it might be a place to start. A basic diagnostic check for a no start is to check for fuel, spark and compression. With that checked you could go from there.
    Tell us what engine it has, at least 4 cyl or 6 cyl.
     

  3. insanity

    insanity Well-Known Member

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    Not sure but the filter is probably on the inside of the frame rail near the tank.
    Just follow the fuel lines.
     
  4. marvella

    marvella Well-Known Member

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    thanks guys.
    :goodjob:
    my good son is working all weekend, but will be here monday to see what he can see. i hope it's something easy, as we're almost out of hay.
     
  5. Darren

    Darren Still an :censored:

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    We have a 92 S10. As previously stated the fuel filter is inside the frame rail ahead of the fuel tank on the driver's side. The only time a sputtering problem ocurred, it was the EGR valve. If you have the 4.3 V6, the correct replacement is determined by looking at one of the postions in the VIN.
     
  6. georger

    georger Well-Known Member

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    On a 93 the first things I'd start to suspect (aside from tune up items like plugs, wires, etc...):

    Fuel pump
    Fuel filter
    Ignition module
     
  7. skruzich

    skruzich Well-Known Member

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    If you can determine whether or not its getting fuel thats the key. IF it is getting fuel, I would start checking compression. Timing is controlled by the computer. That goes for the 2.5l and 4.3L. If fuel is plentiful, sputtering can be anything from a bent valve to a blown head gasket. Sadly in order to get engine codes off a 4.3L you may have to go to the autozone with it and get the free read they give. I don't Know how to trigger the codes on the check engine light.
    You also need to look at the catalytic converter. That plugs up and your engine will sputter. The simple way to check that is to take it off and see if it starts. If so replace it.

    IF it doesn't get fuel, it could be fuel pump relay, fuel pump (listen for it running when ignition is turned on), fuel filter, or injectors. On a 2.5 there is only 1 injector and if it is bad that will happen. IF on a 4.3, it is unlikely to be injectors.

    Check your cap and rotor. Could bethe rotor is burned or the cap could becracked.

    I would go out and get me a book from the autoparts store (haynes) for the year and make of your vehicle. It also gives you a troubleshoot list for your vehicle as well as instructions on how to fix it.
     
  8. georger

    georger Well-Known Member

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    I once had a 91 Astro van with the 4.3 in it and central fuel injection. It kept backfiring and stalling. It wasn't valves or timing.

    The intake was heavily plugged with carbon. Well it had something like 500,000 km on it.
     
  9. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

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    Spray a little starting fluid in air intake, preferrably with air filter removed. If it starts then dies, you know ignition is probably good, and its either plugged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. Replace filter. When that doesnt fix it, check fuse/relay to fuel pump (if fuel flows when you disconnect line then fuse/relay is good), then finally replace the pump. Have to remove tank to get to fuel pump. Pump should be under $100 if throttle body injection (maybe as low as $50), but call around. Port injection fuel pump higher priced. If you have 100k to 150k miles, good chance its fuel pump if its never been change. Buy a new pump. Dont waste time with junkyard pump. This is too much work to change to be worth doing more than once.

    Somebody said to see if fuel is flowing. That is good first step but fuel has to be flowing at a certain pressure range in fuel injection system. A weak pump will still pump, just not at necessary pressure.

    If engine wont start aafter trying starting fluid couple times, then start looking at ignition. You can still use the old test of removing one plug, reconnecting wire to plug and hold bottom of plug to good ground like clean spot on side of engine. See if plug fires across spark plug gap. Now modern systems are rather high voltage so dont shock yourself. Preferrably use pliers with insulated handles to hold the wire/plug against a ground. Ignition parts/modules/sensors can be pricey on modern vehicles. If on budget might try parts fromjunk yard (especially pick a part type places if any in your area). No guarentee they are any good, but they should be very cheap if you are having to guess. Also look for any signs of corrosion in wires/connections or damage from hungry rodents.

    If this thing sets long periods unused in moist environment (especially with partial tank gas), could be tank is rusty and sock on end of fuel pump is plugged also. Or water in the fuel? If you have to drop the tank to get to pump, before buying new pump, look at sock on old pump and pour out fuel into bucket and see if there is water. Also check for rust on inside of tank. If you replace pump, buy a new sock if one doesnt come with pump.














































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  10. mikell

    mikell Well-Known Member

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    If you have to change the pump pull the box off it's easier than dropping the tank. I've done it 100's of times on test vehicles. Take the screws out at the filler neck 6 frame mount bolts and one ground strap near the bumper and unplug the light harness. 2 people can lift the box off and the pump module is looking you in the face. Cut the rubber lines because the fittings will not come out then just splice them back together they are 2 different sizes. clean the dirt and crud from the lock ring and soak with wd-40 then work it loose.

    mikell