Rough Cut Oak

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by big rockpile, Apr 4, 2006.

  1. big rockpile

    big rockpile If I need a Shelter

    Feb 24, 2003
    Wife put some rough cut Oak on the inside walls in a Closet,thought it look so nice.

    The Cabin we're thinking of putting up at the Lake,she is wanting to put Board and Batten on the outside.Was thinking about putting Pine Car Siding on the inside.But now with cheap as we can get Oak and as good as it looks.She is thinking of putting it on the inside for a more Rustic look.

    Problem is how to make it look good.I told her it will shrink and leave a space.I'm thinking either let it season.Or fill in Cracks after it dries.Or both.

    Ok Guys your thoughts.We've used Oak on everything here the only problem we've had putting a Nail in after its seasoned.

    big rockpile
  2. TNHermit

    TNHermit Well-Known Member Supporter

    Jul 14, 2005
    East Tenn.
    You can put up board and batten in the house too. When i bought this place it had quilted maple board and batten. Just remember to nail the batten in the middle so it doesn't split the oak when it dries. You can also do a reverse board and batten. Put the batten up first and then leave a space of your choosing between boards over the top. THere are other things you can do if you want to lounge and groove it. Be prepared to catch a lot of dust with rough sawn oak. You could put a coat of flat varnish to help keep the dust off.

  3. vicker

    vicker Well-Known Member

    Jul 11, 2003
    Central S. C.
    If you can stack it and stick it ( put a couple slats between the layers) and let it dry 90 days, that should take care of most of the shrinkage in oak.
  4. uncle Will in In.

    uncle Will in In. Well-Known Member Supporter

    May 11, 2002
    David, This is not what you are doing but thought I'd tell about it anyway. We rented a fishing cabin up in Ontario a few years ago that was made entitely out of 2x5s and 1/2 inch plywood. The owner took pine 2x5s and cut a 1/2 inch groove on both edges. He cut the plywood in 12 inch strips and put a strip between each 2x5 in the grooves. This was the entire wall, inside and out. These cabins (3 of them) were built in the sixties and were still holding up ok about 5 years ago. He used red barn paint outside and clear varnish on the inside.
  5. greg273

    greg273 Well-Known Member

    Aug 4, 2003
    southern illinois
    Go for it! I'm currently putting board and batten white oak siding on my house, it looks great and is pretty easy to work with. I cut this siding pretty thin, 5/8 of an inch, so it does have a tendency to split, but i'm leaving gaps between the boards to give them some room to move. 3inch battens cover the gaps nicely.
    What kind of price is oak lumber getting down there, Rockpile? Up here, if you provide the logs, the sawyer will charge around 10cents a board ft. to cut it. Pretty economical if you have the trees to work with.
    PS, at home depot, they had oak lumber for $5 a LINEAR FOOT.

    And nailing oak isnt much fun, as I'm sure most everyone knows, so I've been pre-drilling and using deck screws. ( the kind with the TORX head have been great. I'd highly recomment those. Not cheap, but will save time and aggravation by not stripping out) The nail gun with the 12d nails was working ok, but too many splits were occuring. Best of luck!
  6. Tad

    Tad Well-Known Member

    Apr 1, 2003
    Western New York
    Once oak has sesoned it is hard to nail. We build hay wagons out of white oak, heavy but holds up well. We pre-drilled and screwed, snapped many a small drill bit doeing nit!
  7. Country Doc

    Country Doc Well-Known Member

    Oct 26, 2005
    Oak dries about 1 in / year. It gets hard as a rock. 3 mos may be a good compromise. The stuff I have fully dried has to be drilled and burns up the bits, so buy alot of bits if you are drilling dried oak.
  8. Ramblin Wreck

    Ramblin Wreck Well-Known Member Supporter

    Jun 10, 2005
    NW Georgia
    I'd let it dry and pre-drill the holes. You will avoid most, if not all, of the splitting this way. Tastes are like opinions, and I think it makes the world a better place that we all have our own unique likes/dislikes. If it were me, I would try to have the boards plained, tongued, and grooved after drying. I did that with some pine 1x12's that I used on my front porch ceiling, and it turned out great. Having a house with T&G oak paneling would be quite unique.
  9. Blu3duk

    Blu3duk Well-Known Member

    Jun 2, 2002
    central idaho republic
    I have not worked much at all with oak other than veneer.... but i would think that an air nailer would not split the board using a finish type nail to put it up as it is not structural..... Ive used air nailers on dried buckskin western larch [about the hardest wood grown in the western states in any quantity] when putting dried larch up we blunt the nail point to make it break thru the fibers rather than weave thru thme and not split the boards.

    Air nailers can be rented and as inexpensive as they are right now might be the time to buy one or fifteen...... and a good compresor to power it, I use a 5 hp cambell hausfeild with a 20 gallon tank..... it was priced right and will run a host of air tools.....

    And for a finish on those boards, consider sanding off the big splinters and use floor wax on the wood, easy to dust that way and still retains the "rustic" look.