Repainting old house interior

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by moopups, Nov 29, 2005.

  1. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    I painted houses for about 18 months a lot of years back. Some tips you need to know, first, when you paint out of a bucket, punch about 10 holes into the top of the buckets seal channel. This will allow the excess paint to flow back into the bucket when you wipe the brush on the buckets inside edge. A wide brush is often better to control when 'cutting an edge', it holds more paint and can be stroked with more control and direction. Allways start at the top, that way the drips if there any can be covered with lower strokes.

    To clean your brush, spread the brissels and look into the core of the brush to assure cleanness. Coat your hands with baby oil before you start to fill the skin pores so paint cannot stick to your skin. When painting with oil paint the brush can be hung into a bucket of water overnight, brissels only not any wood part.

    If you need to change to a different bucket, do it at a cornor and add the remaining paint to the new bucket, light and shadows cover any slight tone change via cornor changes.

    PS. Paint is very bitter tasteing, just trust me on that one!
     
  2. vicky

    vicky Well-Known Member

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    If this is an old house beware of the lead paint. Wear the appropriate gear when working and stripping. If you've got young kids running around seal the room off as best you can.
     

  3. fin29

    fin29 Well-Known Member

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    Oh, if the house is that old, there IS lead paint--if not on the top coat, then definitely in one or two of the ten or so layers that are no doubt underneath.
    Best way to deal with lead paint on your own is to paint over it and seal it in.

    Also, depending on your financial status, there are grants available to de-lead your home if children live there. My former neighbors had their whole home abated, and their out-of-pocket cost was minimal. Course, they had to move out for about a month.

    As an owner of an old house, I urge you to embrace your house flaws, or you'll kill yourself trying to make it perfect, and more often than not, you'll make it look worse. For example, using joint compound to smooth out cracks in your plaster always results in a crappy look once it's painted. Best thing to do with large cracks and nail holes is to use a flexible latex caulk, removing as much as you can off the wall with a wet rag. Use the flattest paint you can find if you want the smoothest look, but I use a satin because I like the rough texture of old plaster. I figure rich people spend thousands to faux finish drywall to look like what my horsehair looks like.
     
  4. pcdreams

    pcdreams Well-Known Member

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    sorry I don't have time to read all the post so if this is already mentioned my apologies.

    Our house was built around 1896 and had the same as what you're describing. Lead paint and the works.

    We tried stripper, 60 grit paper, etc

    the thing that finally worked was a heat gun (just be carful not to get the wood or surronding area to hot. Then you should be able to use a putty knife to get the majority off. After that I used the 60 grit to clean it up. Of course the hardest part is decorative trim (rosettas) and the like. I usually clean them up as best I can and call it good.

    As far as the plaster work goes.. What looks best on ours (after getting rid of the 6 layers of wall paper with hot water and putty knife) was to fill it, killz it 2-3 coats then one coat of paint.

    Note: unless your really good with plaster work, forget trying to patch the ceiling. I drywalled ours and it saved me the agravation.

    another note: One of those corner (l shaped) mud knifes is well worth its weight in gold.


    Should go without saying but.. make sure you get the killz for the type of paint you will be using latex for laytex or acrylic/acrylic.

    Enjoy after your done. The plaster will never truly be smooth but it does have a lot more character than drywall
     
  5. antiquestuff

    antiquestuff Well-Known Member

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    Contrary to what one above poster said, the woodwork can be stripped and saved. I've saved worse painted wood furniture myself. Use a chemical stripper, or, very carefully, a heat gun. With chemicals, it may take more than one application. As for lead paint, well, that's why you never sand old paint off! The dust is dangerous when sanding lead paint, but using a chemical, there will be little dust put into the air. Don't really need to go to all the trouble some go to with lead, just keep children away, at all times, while working on it--and NEVER let them near an area that has not been cleaned spotless afterwards. Simply having lead paint is not necessarily dangerous, it's dangerous when it's loose, and gets into things, or gets airborne, or a kid eats some of it, or lead particles are on food or clothing or whatever around a kid. Hence, NEVER sand the stuff. In addition, those most at risk from lead are the young children, adults are more tolerant in general.

    I've stripped wood items before, and it can be done, but it is a bit time consuming. But, you have all winter, so go ahead...just do NOT sand the stuff. Chemicals (follow all safety guidelines on the container) or a heat gun (careful so you don't burn the wood). If you use a heat gun, or a real strong chemical, use a respirator to protect your lungs.
     
  6. Quint

    Quint Well-Known Member

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    I've used chemical stripper and a heat gun with ok results. I really disliked doing it though. The last place I helped remodel had some really elaborate woodwork that we really wanted to save but it was heavily covered by probably a dozen coats of lead paint. After stripping the first few feet of the stuff we decided we didn't want to do any more of the tedious stripping and sanding. We took it to a local millwork shop and had the knives cut to turn out the stuff new. It really wasn't that expensive. It was soooooo much easier than all of that mess with stripping the old stuff. The new stuff looked great. Probably better than the stripped stuff. The knives ran about 100 bucks if I remember correctly and we run a bunch of molding with them. Had to have them sharpened once but one set of knives will make a ton of molding. I think I still have those knives somewhere around here.