Jess,
Don't be sorry for the questions, that's how we all learn. I start breeding does at 4 months because many does mess up their first litters- they kindle on the wire, don't make good nests, don't pull enough (or any) fur and the kits freeze, they get frightened or confused and eat the kits-either partially or entirely, smash or smother the kits, and any number of other things. If this happens, I can rebreed them immediately and get a second, usually successful, litter by the time the doe is 6 months old. If the doe delivers successfully on her first litter, so much the better. The does should be 7-8 pounds when bred for the first time, Californians at the lower end. Waiting until they are 5 months old would be fine, but I don't think waiting to breed them is healthier in the long run. Junior does can easily become too fat, and that will hinder mating, conception and kindling (delivery). 7 months would be much too long for me. How long your breeders last does not depend on when you begin breeding, but how fast your breedback schedule is. Does on a 14-day breedback (mating 14 days after the doe delivers her litter) will not last as long as does on a 42-day breedback schedule (mating 42 days after she delivers her litter). Whatever schedule you decide on, stick to it. Does on a regular schedule produce better. If you wait too long between litters, it's often hard and sometimes impossible to get them back into production. If you are raising for you own personal meat supply, then you won't need to be on an intensive breeding schedule and the does should produce for a long time.
My does are in 36x30 hanging wire cages which will comfortably house the doe and 8-9 fryers (hopefully) until the fryers are sold.
To help interpret until Cody gets home, I'll try to clarify what might sound confusing in my previous post:
others won't breed at that time, i.e. vulvas pink, not red or purplish
does that will be receptive to the buck at mating will have vulvas that are red to purple in color. If it is whitish to pink, she will probably refuse to mate. Just put her back in her cage, and try again in a week.
I do treat the herd with 3-4 drops of ivermectin (for ear mites) to the back of the neck when the weather warms up
I buy pour on ivermectin for cattle at my local feed store. It's a cattle dewormer, but it works great for fur/ear mites on rabbits that they tend to get during the summer. You only need a tiny bit, 3 or 4 drops for a full grown rabbit. You put it on the back of the neck, because the rabbit can't get to it back there and lick it. It gets into the bloodstream and kills the mites when they suck the rabbit's blood.
Feed is 18% Pen Pals
My feed is called "Pen Pals" and contains 18% protein. That's a high protein feed because the does are in constant production and need more protein. However, my breedback schedule is not intensive, they get a rest between litters, so I think I can move them to a lower protein (much cheaper) feed without them losing weight and having problems. If I supplement with alfalfa, which is high in protein for the does, as well as corn which is good for weight gain for the fryers, I should be able to save money on feed, and not have a drop in production.
Keep the questions coming, it benefits everyone!
Robin