Problem with bury hydrant

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by L@lly in N.E. OK, Dec 28, 2004.

  1. L@lly in N.E. OK

    L@lly in N.E. OK Member

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    Hello,
    I tried to use my buried hydrant to water my animals yesterday and it was resistant to opening. I forced it and now it won't shut off completely. Have I ruined it or can I adjust that nut at the top to make it close completely?

    Lilly
     
  2. brosil

    brosil Well-Known Member Supporter

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    You should be able to adjust it. Did yuo install it yourself and if so, did you put gravel at the bottom for the water to drain to out of the weep hole? I didn't bury mine deep enough and now have them wrapped with electric pipe tapes and foam insulation. I plug them in when it gets below 0.
     

  3. Beeman

    Beeman Well-Known Member

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    I've had the same problem. On the bottom of the rod is a rubber plunger. You could possibly adjust the rod down and stop the water from flowing. BUT!! chances are you will either do what I did or it's already happened. The rubber part will tear off of the brass piece it is vulcanized on and the rubber will remain jammed in the part at the bottom of the hydrant. I tried absolutely everything until I finally had to dig up the hydrant and remove it, completely disassemble it and remove the rubber plunger from it's seat.
    The other thing to remember is if the hydrant is leaking out the top, it's also probably leaking underground where it drains the hydrant so it doesn't freeze.

    I know you don't want to hear all this, just like I didn't. When I walked in the plumbing supply with the rod in my hand with no rubber piece on the bottom and the first thing I heard them say was UH-OH!
     
  4. Steve in Ohio

    Steve in Ohio Well-Known Member

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    I had one that did that,if I remember correctly is was made by a company called Clayton??????This thing had a cartridge type deal for the vavle stop,that was made of plastic and replaceable..............it attaches to the brass rod and the handle assembly at the top of the brass rod.I think the nut you are talking about is a "packing nut" that seals the rod from leaking.........
    Well it sounds like a fun filled day of chasing down parts anyway..............
     
  5. L@lly in N.E. OK

    L@lly in N.E. OK Member

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    thanks guys.
    Yeah, I did install it myself and put gravel in the bottom to drain, but probably not as deep as it should be, and we've had a lot of rain lately, so it may be too saturated to drain properly. I probably forced the rubber or plastic thingy at the bottom off the rod, so will have to dig it up and repair that. For today I just want to make it stop flowing, so will try to adjust the nut at the top to make the rod go deeper and go get a pipe wrap to keep the whole thing from bursting when it freezes again. I've turned the water off at the meter for the night and will turn it back on long enough for a shower and a flush, then shut it off again until I can get the flow shut off.
    Thanks again.
     
  6. idahocurs

    idahocurs Well-Known Member

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    I hope you do not live in the frozen tundra like I do as digging anything right now is out of the question!
     
  7. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    if you take a small amount of hot water and pour it around the top of the rod before you try to open it frees up the rod at the top . hope it bailed out over nite as getting one un frose is fun!we install with a peice of 6inch drain tile as well . what brand ? adjusting is diferent for them all clayton is one of the best but we install with a heat tape in a insulated box as well ,but then again live whole lot closer to the north pole!
     
  8. L@lly in N.E. OK

    L@lly in N.E. OK Member

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    Actually the soil temp right now, according to TV weatherman, is 34 degrees. The last few nights have been above freezing, but that won't last long. So, I guess I'd better get out there and dig now! Or is it worth a try, to take off the top, pull out the rod and see if the rubber/plastic thingy is just split and not jammed down at the bottom? Or is there some assembly down there where you need to take it all apart anyway?

    I adjusted it using the square-headed screw (I formerly called it a nut) on the brass rod to where it is just dribbling, but that won't due.
    http://homesteadingtoday.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=637468#
    crying

     
  9. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Here in Minnesota we need to go 6' deep with our piping.

    We put pits where we have water valves, a 6-7' deep hole about 3-4' across. I've been down in my pits more times than I care to remember in freezing weather fixing stuff. I have one at the well head, the house basement is basically another, & 2 down by the barn. All the drain-back valves & junctions and a real ball valve to shut off water at that location are in them. On a farm 120 years old, it sure is helpfull to keep critters (and people) watered when it is minus 10 outside and something freezes, leaks, or wears out.

    Oh, we have very clay soils, I've never liked the pitless drain-back valves for my location, just too many things to go wrong, & then what do you do?

    --->Paul
     
  10. Beeman

    Beeman Well-Known Member

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    I just got off of the phone with the Simmons company that made my hydrant. He said it's unfortunate but he has seen the rubber come off. He basically said it was due to bad vulcanization of the rubber to the brass. He had a suggestion which I had tried without success, but it might work for you. If the rubber is torn off have someone weld a lag screw onto the end of a rod long enough to try and screw into the rubber and pull it out. I tried this but my rubber was really stuck in the seat, so badly that I even had trouble when I disassembled the whole hydrant.
    Find what company made your hydrant and ck. the web. You will find plenty of exploded views of how it's constructed. I would go to the place you bought your hydrant and look at a repair kit or buy one so you know what you're getting in to.
    Remember if you remove the top and the rubber is broken off and you can't get it out you will really have a leak and won't be able to turn the water on until you fix it. I dug mine out and capped the pipe until I could repair it.
    Another fix might be if the hydrant store would either replace the hydrant if it's under warranty, or if you bought a new one and replace yours and then you would have one to install in that other spot you always wanted one.

    A hydrant installation tip is to be sure to use a metal elbow on the bottom of the hydrant and it's also good to use about 2 ft. of galvanized pipe at the hydrant before attaching to PVC.
     
  11. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    hey rambler ya need to install ball valves turned with a "key" small bore pipe leads to the valve and lets the key contact the valve. dirts a good insulator .same idea as a municiple water system.-10? already had minus 30 with windchill to-50!and on friday it is suposed to be 47! our clay has good size boulders to gravel ,lots of fun to dig!still even froze solid a hoe ram digs well!
     
  12. L@lly in N.E. OK

    L@lly in N.E. OK Member

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    It's a Simmons. I went to the place I got it and they had a demonstration/example hydrant with a cut out at the bottom so I could see how it works. And they had a replacement parts package, so I bought one. So, tomorrow I'll be trying to get it out to repair without digging. Wish me luck!

    Thanks for all your help, all.
    Lilly

     
  13. Beeman

    Beeman Well-Known Member

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    Good Luck.
    Remember that if it's dribbling/leaking out the top it's probably also leaking at the bottom as the plunger is down past the drain hole so the whole pipe is full of water. If you leave it leak like that and it gets cold you could have a real problem.
     
  14. Ole Man Legrand

    Ole Man Legrand Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced one that I think was defective from the factory It worked o.k. in hot weather but the first night I had a hard freeze It malfunctioned. The water was not draining out of the stand pipe.I tunneled underneath and it still wouldn,t drain. From now on I will drill the drain hole out to .312 from .125 I also will make sure the drain is working before installtion.