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Discussion Starter #1
What is the going price in your area for a Farmall M with a basic loader, assuming everything is in running condition?

I've seen them as low as 1000 for mechanic's specials and much higher for rebuilt parade tractors. I'm looking for something that is mechanically sound and still has some work left in it.
 

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Tires....they are expensive. Need to be in good enough shape to work for what you are wanting to do. New tires would be worth more than the actual tractor if a good brand.
Smoke, a lot would be a worry, although if it has set it will smoke until run some.
A loader that is the same age as the tractor is not worth a lot but is worth more than buying a loader because it is all set up, newer loader with hyd bucket is worth more.

An M is worth $1500 in good running condition, very good/new tires another $500....James
 

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Ive aseen Ms go at the sale I go to for under a grand with nothing on them. Don't know anything about what shape they were in. I bought a great H from there for $400, and a 69 D Brown 990 with a shot PTO from there, so its a crap shoot.

Does it have 3pt? Does it have the pulley? Can you drive it? IF so, the steering will be stiff with the loader on it, especially if the fronts are low. The rears should have between 20 and 25 psi in them. The fronts likely around 35 PSI. That's what I run in mine. Maybe more with a loader on it. UNDERSTAND, that you have to ACTUALLY S T O P, before changing gears, and that 5th or road gear, is just, for the most part hauling you and a machine fast on the road, NOT for hauling a heavy load of anything.
Check the oil for water, and check the water for any oil drops. Does it turn all the way right and left with the same amount of power needed to turn the wheel? What year is it? Check the drawbars, both the inline and the cross bar for breaks. IF you see any, you can be sure it was used hard. IF the inline drawbar hole looks more like a slot, then it may well have been used hard. IS the hand crank shaft in the lower front of the radiator free? That's where you stick a crank if you don't have battery enough to start it. Most of them by now are froze, Mine is. No big deal.
 

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We pulled peppermint tubs with Ms on the road in road gear all the time, had to shift down on hills. You learn to start out in 4th and throttle down to hit 5th without grinding after a while. We used a lot of Ms on the farm for spraying, pulling wagons, harrowing and lots of lighter farm work. We ran all wide front ends, IH originals without power steering. A lot of Ms had loaders without power steering in the day, slow, lots of room and steer while moving. Loaders were removed during farm work. Don't want the front bolster breaking in the field if moving very fast....James
 

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Is there a reason you are looking for a m? They are a fairly high tractor and not very well suited for loader work
 

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They are also gas hogs. Will out-pull anything else
their size, but ride rough and the steering wheel will
sometimes spin round and try to remove your thumbs!
Other than that, I love em!
 

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Ive drove my Uncle Ralphs 41 M that I bought but bro beat me out of, Ive drove my dads 48 H back in the 50s, and ive drove my 48 H that ive had for around 4yrs. NEVER had the steering wheel do that. NOW, on F-20s, and 30s, yes, ive had that happen, but never on a H or a M. I don't think my H rides any rougher than my 69 990 D Brown.
 

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I bought one with a loader and bucket. Came with chains back blade and front tractor cover which goes around the engine and acts like a cab. I paid 2400. !5 years later I sold it for 1900.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the comments. I've seen yesterday's tractors for questions, but hadn't looked at the ads.

Why an M? Because a Super MTA or bigger gets beyond my price range. But it is a good question...
My goals would be primarily putting up hay, swathing with either a sickle bar or a small swather, small square baler, side delivery rakes and trailer/wagon. I'm pretty sure that the M can handle all that, though it will take some finessing without a live PTO. The loader would let me move big round bales until I can get everything else going.

I would like to be able to eventually do some planting cover-crops/forage with a small drill like a Van Brunt or similar. But that's a while down the road.

Is there any reason that an M couldn't do those things?
 

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No, I think you understand the short comings of an M. I think if you look around you might find a newer tractor with live PTO for near the same money. 400, 450, 560, 656, 706. These tractors with the gas motors are still quite cheap....James
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A major reason I started off asking about prices is that there is an M available for 1200, supposed to run. There's also a Super MTA w/o loader for 5000, a case 730 for 4750, and a case 930 for 5000. That's a bit of difference in prices, when I've got a small budget to work with.

Thanks again everyone for your comments
 

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Super M ta's are usually horribly overpriced. You can usually find an IH 400 forr less money and have a newer tractor.
Picked up an M with a verh heavy fully hydraulic loader on a pto pump for 1200 last fall. Needs 1000 worth of tires though..

Out of those choices I'd go with the 730.
 

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My advice would be to purchase wide front end tractor not row crop. Depending on your
experience a 1956 or above could be a better. I dearly love my Farmall H but will not use
it for loader or moving round bales. If you have ever operated one and put it to its limit
they are very top heavy and front heavy. Mine has been in family for 63 years and is as
much sentimental as practical now days. We have all the original implements, plow, harrow, planter with 15 plates, side dresser, 3 cultivators, wagon, buzz saw, manure spreader, mower and all are useful but very time consuming. I would love to add a 40 hp wide front for mowing, post hole, and loading some day.
 
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