pressure switch

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by Cyngbaeld, Jun 18, 2006.

  1. Cyngbaeld

    Cyngbaeld In Remembrance Supporter

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    I need to put a pressure switch on the cistern pump so I don't have to manually turn it on and off. Not sure what to get tho. I found some online, but could use a bit of help. You'll have to do search, it won't load the page right. pressure switch water pump

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

    Thanks.
     
  2. CatsPaw

    CatsPaw Who...me?

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    I don't know what is in the rest of your system, but, here are the basics.

    You need a pressure tank (expansion tank), various fittings, a pressure gauge, AND the pressure switch. Your water line is piped straight thru with Tee's for the switch, gauge, and tank.

    I've found most of the home stores have some sort of diagram floating around that shows the whole set-up (wherever you're finding the well pump stuff.) Don't know where you're at if you're looking at Grainger (maybe stores aren't convenient.)

    Without the tank, you'll get all sorts of problems. You can run a pump without it but you'd better be sure the tap is open before turning it on. I think with only a switch, it would work, but, would self-destruct (and maybe destroy some faucets along the way)very soon.

    If you have all that, but, just need to replace the switch, I'm not sure which one would work without knowing what type of pump you have.

    Probably 220V. 2-wire or 3-wire? I think that's the main difference for getting a 1 or 2 pole switch. The rest of the adjustments are fairly standard.

    I'm no expert. Just know enough to ask the right questions of a well person. Or I figure it out by reading info on the boxes at the store.
     

  3. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Is your pump filling the cistern (then you want a float switch, not a pressure switch) or are you filling a pressure tank with a pump from a cistern and want to add a switch to the tank????

    If the later you probably want a very common 30/50 or 40/60 pressure switch that has the same power as your pump (120 or 240v) and the pressure rating you want.

    If you just have a pump & pipe, no pressure tank, it won't work out.

    Could probably find a switch at any farm supply or hardware store, & talk to the sales person locally....

    --->Paul
     
  4. Cyngbaeld

    Cyngbaeld In Remembrance Supporter

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    Sorry, guess I should have given more info.

    I am on a community well, but at the far end of the line and have minimal pressure. I also have a cistern which receives the runoff from the roof. So I sometimes fill the cistern from the community well. I just stick the hose in when needed and let it fill up. I will probably eventually put a float valve on it tho. I haven't been on the well very long since I had to run a line an additional 1600ft. Before that I either hauled water in five gal containers or used the water from the cistern if there was any.

    I haven't had running water in the house, just pumping out of the cistern into a container or using the hose from the well to fill it, and carrying that in. I have a manually operated pump in the cistern and want to connect it to the house plumbing so we will have running water. Don't have a lot of cash, is the big problem.

    ETA: I'm not close to anything.
     
  5. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

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    You need a pressure tank that holds about 1/2 water, 1/2 air. Old style is just a pressure tank, need to add air every few months. New style has a bladder in it like an innertube, keeps the air & water seperate. From 10 to 120 gallon size I suppose, bigger than the tiniest is better for the pump/ electric bill, 40gal would surely be big enough for your conditions.

    You need to Tee in a pressure switch near the pump, run power from the wall to the pressure switch, then from the switch to the pump. If you know wiring you can figure it out from the diagrams; if not you might do well to have an electrician or electrical-minded friend do it, fairly simple.

    Again, depends on 120 or 220v as to which switch you get, I'd suspect 120 in your case.

    In a 2 story or running water uphill, might want the 40/60 switch (min pressure, max pressure), but the 30/50 is equally common esp for a single level house or pump not in the basement.

    If you don't have the pressure tank, the pump will kick on/off every few seconds as pressure changes with any leaky drip or tiny use of water. Wrecks the pump in short time. Must have the tank.

    Also, what kind of pump, some are only meant to move water, not build it up to a certain pressure. Probably ok, but something to be sure about before proceeding.

    You would likely be able to work with one of the grey Square D switches in the catalog set to 30/50 pressure, adjustable up to 65 or so lbs, and matching the power of your pump. I see 8 pages worth of various such switches....


    --->Paul
     
  6. Cyngbaeld

    Cyngbaeld In Remembrance Supporter

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    Thanks, Paul. Guess I'll look for a pressure tank too then.
     
  7. BobK

    BobK Well-Known Member

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    Don't forget to install a check valve at the pressure tank....otherwise it will fill while the pump is on and empty as soon as it turns off.......
     
  8. tiogacounty

    tiogacounty Well-Known Member

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    Check out aquascience.net and look at the well-trol pressure tanks and "t" packages. this is the setup you need. The prices are pretty good too. Good luck..
     
  9. farminghandyman

    farminghandyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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