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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. I've got a lot of advice from you fine folks and I have come up with a working plan that is wide open to suggestions.

As I said previously my pipe is oil field 2" schedule 40.
It is in 30 foot sections so I figure on cutting it to get 4 posts at 7.5 feet each.
It has the liner but I have a fairly effective way of torch cutting it so Im not concerned about the liner.

The plan is to cement every 3rd or 4th post and to drive the others into the hard ground. These will have the ends dipped in thick tar where it contacts the ground to prevent premature rusting.

I want to space them 8 or 9 feet apart (comments?) and run one top rail of pipe. Should the top rail go on top of the posts, on the inside of the posts, or in between?

Below the rail I want to run 3 rows of metal cable with springs at the ends. (saw a fence set up like this and it look pretty slick and was holding back some horses just fine) Does anyone know what gauge cable I should run and how I go about setting this up and are there springs specifically designed for this? Also I have seen it run throught the pipe and also run on the outside of pipe through metal eyes. Which would you prefer?

If I do any painting it will be around my welds. My fencing priorities have unfortunatly fell in the order of 1) cost 2) functionality 3) cosmetic apperance.

I am very greatful for the help I got on my original post and I am looking forward to more input. I don't want to make any huge mistakes here. Thanks again!
 

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agmantoo
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The top rail needs to go on top. If you do not want to cut a curved pocket for the pipe to rest in get a piece of strap metal (solid rectangular flat bar or round stock) and bend in an inverted U and weld to entrap the top rail. You need to pull a string and average out the height of the top rail to where it is visually acceptable depending on the lay of the land. Since you are going to be welding I would think it woud be easier to weld a keeper for the cable on the side toward the livestock. The springs that I have seen were fabricated from auto salvage yards parts.
 

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I'm not sure if I'm posting this right, but....here is a picture of our pipe fence. The top joints are screwed together and they lay right on the vertical posts where they were cut out. Hope this helps!


 

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..................I've already said my peace but I'll make one last observation......(1) driving pipe into the ground with a driver in terms of alignment for a top rail is a Very IFFY affair, at best . My solution would be to Drill a hole for EACH line post on 10 foot intervals . Cement every 3 rd. post or everyother post if possibe . Then , cut saddle's for each Cemented post, then set and weldup the Top rail . THEN , saddle the Remaining UNcemented posts , and weld them to the Top rail with the bottoms hanging freely in their respective holes . NOW , you can either just pack dirt around the bottoms or cement them in whichever your budget will allow . THIS way ALL the posts will be in the correct alignment and still look decent ....fordy..... :eek: :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well thanks again for all the information folks. I am about ready to get started on this. Gotsta hurry before winter blows in.

I decided to go with 3 strands of High Tensile Wire under my top rail. I figure as long as my horse has one good eye he'll see the top rail and woun't be as likely to get himself tangled in the wire at high speeds. Only problem I am having is that nobody around here seems to carry high tensile wire. Most places don't even know what Im talking about. I tried Atwoods, Lowes, Builder's Square, Sutherlands, and some fence companies. They usually point me towards the conventional electric fence line (which is 200lb test at best). Does anyone know where I can find some good high tensile wire? It is called high tensile wire isnt it?!? I will order it online if I have to but don't know where to do that either. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
agmantoo said:
Thanks agmantoo.
Check it out. From that site... hard to beat this deal:
"$86.25 4000 ft
190,000 PSI minimum wire. 1433lb minimum break at .098". Galfan is a zinc alloy coating that offers performance advantages that go far beyond the limits of conventional galvanizing. Consisting of mainly zinc plus a little aluminum, the Galfan alloy coating provides as much as 7 times the corrosion protection as traditional class 3 galvanized coatings. The Galfan coating provides protection in 2 ways - the aluminum provides longevity of the coating; the zinc provides sacrificial cathode protection against corrosion where scratches may occur. Ideal for use where a stronger, longer lasting wire is desired. 190,000 PSI min = 1433 [email protected] in"

Of course it is not in stock. :(
 

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agmantoo
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I buy locally class 3 galvanized for around $55 per 4000 ft roll and it lasts longer than I will have a need for it. Class 3 is good galvanizing!
 
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