Oven broke!

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by DreamingBig, Dec 25, 2004.

  1. DreamingBig

    DreamingBig Well-Known Member

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    Merry Christmas everyone! This sure isn't the post I had planned on...but just as I got ready to make a yummy coffee cake for my special holiday breakfast, my oven decided to quit on me! It's gas, hooked up to PG&E; the burners and oven pilot light work but the oven will not turn on. Any suggestions? It usually takes ~5 minutes for the oven to light, but it's been on an hour.

    Well after 2 or 3 hours the oven finally came on. So now my question is, why does it take SO long for natural gas to go through the pipe? I had not used the oven for a few days and it's been cold (not that cold, just the low 30's at night but 60's during the day). I used to have that problem with the wall heater, but after the thermostat was changed it improved, although I'm careful to fire it up as cool weather approaches so I won't be stuck on a cold day. Still, sometimes in the morning it can take nearly an hour to turn on, and it has a pilot light too. I'd love to know why this happens! I've never had this problem with any other house.
     
  2. Bruman

    Bruman New Member

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    I would have the gas company come out and check your pressure regulator. I had a similar problem with a water heater that would not fire until the furnace fired up. That dropped the pressure in the line enough to let the water heater run. They adjusted the regulator to lower the pressure and that took care of the problem.
     

  3. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    Poped a PM at Old Hoot, our resident gas thingy repair, He will be on his white horse as soon as he sees the PM to assist you!!
     
  4. JustinThyme

    JustinThyme Active Member

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    Seeing as your gas meter is a PD meter (positive displacement) ,when they lower the pressure ,you get 'fewer gas molecules per stroke' hence fewer 'btu' so to speak ,but you still pay the same for each stroke. It wont make much diffrence over 10 or 20 strokes ,but when you add up the 1000's per year ,it will make a diffrence ,youre getting ripped off.

    This does NOT mean you should go out and crank up the pressure reg a few turns ,this is not only illegal ,but potentially VERY dangeous ,since accumulated gas explodes rather than burns .

    More often than not its your thermocouple (basically 2 dissimilar metals brazed together )that produces a tiny voltage when in the pilot flame ,thats enough to keep a solenoid valve open .The T/C could be full of crud ,it could be out of the flame just enough to only allow the valve to open partially ,or it could be just worn out (dont know why they would (no moving parts) ,but they do)

    Another thing to check is your orifice ,dont know how accessible it is ,but it could be partially plugged with food ash or grease ,a welding tip cleaner might help .If you use something bigger than the orifice you'll just pack the crud in even tighter ,careful.

    BE super careful when working with gas appliances ,one wrong move and you can take out yourself ,your family and your home ,all to save money on a 3 dollar part .
     
  5. oldhoot

    oldhoot In Remembrance

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    The problem is a dirty pilot light--on both your appliances more than likely. They need to be cleaned and I'll betcha that'll fix the problem.

    Have a qualified gas repairman clean the pilot orfices and burners and give'r a try. Have'm to check the gas pressure at the appliance to make sure it's ok. Natural Gas will be 3 1/2oz at the valve inlet and propane will be 6 1/4oz. I doubt if it's the gas prssure tho.

    Thanks Mitch for the PM. oldhoot.
     
  6. DreamingBig

    DreamingBig Well-Known Member

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    I will look into getting the PG&E guy out here. Thanks for your help, gentlemen! :worship:

    Chris