Homesteading Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, have another question. Again, we are burning the Kitchen Queen 480. This morning is our 3rd fire. My issue is every time I close the back damper the fire snuffs itself to almost nothing. Front draft is wide open. Wood to wet? I am not really able to get the whole stove heated up. Do those of you that have this stove activate oven when heating with it? Any help would be great!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,554 Posts
I don't know this stove, but when you burn any stove, you have to have air flow.. air in, and air out.. If you close the flu damper too much, you can't get enough air in, even if the air inlet damper is wide open.. .You need to find the happy medium of letting air in, and letting air, or the exhaust out..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Trainwrek

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,896 Posts
I do not have a KQ.I do have 3 antique cookstoves. The "rear draft" is to direct the heat arround the oven. One cannot do this until there is enough heat built up in the entire stove to support the draft it requires to direct the smoke/heat the longer route. So , how about you try to get a pot of water boiling on the surface right above the firebox,then play with your slide and damper.ps. move pot of boiling water,watching the boil, you will find your hottest spot on the surface and the coolest,it will also show you what happens when you open/close dampers.
 

·
Unpaid, Volunteer Devil's Advocate
Joined
·
18,365 Posts
I think this discussion is going to get all mixed up because of the different terms we use to call different parts.
I'll try to use more descriptive terms. You open the under the fire air intake and open the up the stove pipe exhaust. Get the fire going and you tried to shut the stove pipe exhaust? To keep a fire going, it needs intake and exhaust. Old stoves will rebel to an open intake and a closed stove pipe exhaust, by smoking you out. There is a tendency among first time wood burners to try to preserve some of that heat lost up the stovepipe. Get a magnetic thermometer for the stove pipe. It'll show you that hot is normal.
On models that have an oven lever, that just directs the smoke/heat around the oven. But bypassing the direct route to the chimney, the stove may smoke or the fire may fail to thrive. So, get the fire going good before going to oven heat. You can leave the oven door open to warm the kitchen faster.

After years of wood stove cooking, it is second nature to me. You'll quickly learn to control a pan's heat by sliding it left or right, closer or farther from the heat. You will learn the correct amount of paper, bits of bark, kindling and dry wood needed to start a fire with a single match. You'll learn to value dry wood. I've been pressed to dry kitchen wood in the oven a few times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
714 Posts
Are you familiar with the lever on the right hand side of the stove top? That opens and closes the firebox off from the right side of the cooktop. This needs to be used in addition to the rear flue diverter. Also will be helpful to leave the ash pan door ajar for air intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all. Going to burn again tonight with this cool snap we having hopefully we can figure out what we are doing.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top