new septic tank hookup

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by leaping leon, Aug 22, 2005.

  1. leaping leon

    leaping leon Well-Known Member

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    I'm posting here to try to reach someone, anyone who will know the answer to this...I've already spent more than three hours searching the web with no results...

    I'm plumbing in a new septic tank; this is my first time...I'm ready to lay the drain pipe from the mobile home to the tank...and...

    There's a soft plastic "cap" set into the tank opening. There's no opening in the cap. When I pushed on it I could feel something solid behind it...I took a hammer and gently tapped the cap in the center and it sounds and feels like there's concrete behind the cap - about 1/4" to 1/2" behind it...

    So, how do I get the drain pipe into the tank? Do I punch out the concrete behind the cap? Is there supposed to be a baffle behind the concrete behind the cap? Or do I have a defective tank?

    Please help if you can, or refer me to someone who can. I need to get the septic tank plumbed in so we can get it inspected and move in...it costs too much where we live now.
     
  2. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    Are there any openings inside the tank below the area where waste would enter if there was no baffle? What is the height of the drain port in referance to the entrance port? I am not familiar with an entrance baffle but its been 25 years since I installed a tank, designs may have changed. Some one more familiar will answer this soon.
     

  3. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    Yes, use a chisel and knock out the cap and the cement behind it. There should be a baffle on both ends of the septic tank, however not all tanks will come with the inlet and outlet baffle already installed. If yours does not have these baffles, you simply make the baffle yourself out of a PVC tee and pipe. The length of pipe above and below the tee in the baffle is critical. Let me know if you need these lengths.
     
  4. leaping leon

    leaping leon Well-Known Member

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    Cabin Fever, thank you for your info.

    I'll knock it out and see what I have...

    If I don't have a baffle already, how complicated is this going to be? I have an elevated drain field and a pump in the tank...

    I may have to bite the money bullet and pay for a plumber...$$$...if I can get one with the building boom that going on in the area...
     
  5. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    The baffles you'd make would look something like in this drawing. Do not use standard tees for the baffles. Use sanitary tees.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. BackwoodsIdaho

    BackwoodsIdaho Well-Known Member

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    Once you tap it out and place your drain pipe in there, make sure you seal around it so you don't leak untreated sewage out or have soil getting in. I unsed a tar type patching material on the one concrete tank i did. I like plastic better if the regs allow it because I can place it with a backhoe when I am ready and also move it around to make sure it is level

    jim
     
  7. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    The problem with a plastic tank in Florida is the high watertable. A plastic tank will float out of the ground if it is empty. If you use a plastic tank in a high ground water area, make sure it's filled with water right away after installation and right away after it's pumped out.
     
  8. mtman

    mtman Well-Known Member

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    even a cement one will float when empty should allways keep some water in all of them
     
  9. Ross

    Ross Moderator Staff Member Supporter

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    Cabin don't American septic tanks have a divider in them? solids and waste water spill over side? We've been installing septic tanks all summer and the one thing I would definately recomend is getting a filter on the outlet side to keep solids and particulate in the tank. It may plug but you can fix that, if the feild loads up on solids you'll have a replacement job ahead of you!
     
  10. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    Yes, many new tanks have two compartments. This style of tank is more efficient at settling solids and keeping them out of the drainfield. Yes, filters will help keep lint, hair and other suspended particles out of the drainfield, thereby increasing the drainfield’s longevity. BUT, the homeowner must understand that the filter MUST be serviced periodically. If the filter is not cleaned, it can become plugged and you end up with water coming out your floor drains. I like the “bottle brush” style effluent filter. It slides right into the outlet baffle and costs only 10 bucks.
     
  11. agmantoo

    agmantoo agmantoo Supporter

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    New tanks here are required to have the filter. The partition requirement has been in place for some years. I recently had to pump a less than 2 year old tank that has a filter due to the volume of paper(paper towels) the renters had put down the drain. I was relieved that the filter was there to protect the drain field.
     
  12. papaw

    papaw Well-Known Member

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    Good thread, thanks for the drawing Cabin.