You just need a shorter drive band than what you have - it's probably stretched out. That happens.

Cut a new band that will fit when your MOA is almost as close to the wheel as it goes. You could take off your existing band and just tie a knot in it to shorten it, but you won't have a lot of spare string to work with so it will probably be easier to cut a new one. Just use string of any nonstretchy kind that is about the same weight.

For your wheel that's throwing the drive band you've got an alignment issue. Stand so you can see the wheel side-on and spin it with your hand, watching to see what happens when it throws the band. You probably need to shim the wheel axle a bit to keep it more level, that's the most common problem.

 

thanks, Frazzle,
will do that!

 

Hmm! Now everything I've been told has been to adjust the drive band to fit when the wheel is on the middle setting, middle whorl. The point being you don't want it difficult to adjust to either the largest or smallest whorl.

 

Marchwind, I read where you said that in the other thread- so just finished putting on the driveband on the middle whorl for the Trad. Works great!
the Camelot spins great now - a working band is a plus!

 

You are right March - the reason I say to put the MOA all the way in is that when you tie a band on there is always some slack (unless you have super awesome knot tying skills that far exceed mine, I suppose). I've found that generally as soon as I get the knot done and tilt the MOA over (sorry, I'm talking CPW terms - it's not always "tilt" but you get what I mean) your'e in that middle zone quite comfortably.

But yes, that's what you want - the band comfortably snug at the midpoint or slightly less than the midpoint (you do need to be able to move it in a bit without the band falling right off, for instance).