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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this fence which is mostly 8' sections and about 100' long.

Plant Fence Split-rail fence Natural landscape Wood


The 8' horizontal boards are 1x6x8 pine and the verticals that cover the joints are 1x4x4 pine. The fence was built more than 20 years ago. I painted it a few years ago, and much of it flaked off within a year,

Some of the boards are cracked, others severely bowed, some of the bottom boards have water damage, and all have some degree of dry rot where the 1x6 comes in contact with the post.

My plan was to take the boards off, sand the ones that were OK, some could be cut down to 7' (2 sections), or make 1x4x4s out of them. I would replace bad boards with new boards as necessary. Then I was going to sand and stain the posts, stain the boards while they were down, and rebuild section by section as I felt like it.

That plan won't work. The boards are in a lot worse shape than I thought they were. Here's roughly what it would cost just for new 1x6x8's

Let's use 50 boards which is fairly close to what I need to replace all the boards.

1x6x8 Pine - 50 x $13 = $650
1x6x8 P/T - 50 x $7.18 = $360

Then I checked to see what was available in fencing. They have 1x6x8 P/T Dog Eared Pickets for about $4 ea or $200 total.

The dog ear end will be covered by the 4' verticals, so I could use the full 8' pickets without having to trim the end. They are also stainable so I can still have my white fence.

Do you see any problem using these pickets? I think I will pick up 4 to see how they work out. I can find plenty of other things to do with them if for some reason they don't work.

.
 

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It looks like, from the photo, that the posts are capped/faced in front with a 1/x4 to cover the gaps. If the dog ears can be covered then I would agree that it is a good idea. If the tapered end of the picket is exposed however, then no.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2x6x8 pressure treated is going for 6.98 here.. would be a lot stronger and more durable IMO

Pickets are going to be between 5/8 and 3/4 to thin IMO
The P/T and untreated 1x4x8s are both .75 width and the picket is 5/8. They feel stiffer to me than a pine board. It might be because they haven't completely dried out yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It looks like, from the photo, that the posts are capped/faced in front with a 1/x4 to cover the gaps. If the dog ears can be covered then I would agree that it is a good idea. If the tapered end of the picket is exposed however, then no.
They will be covered by the 1x4. I'm hoping to salvage enough lumber from the current fence so I don't have to buy them.
 

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I have 1000' of wood fencing along the front of our property that was first put up around 30 years ago. I replace the boards as they are needed. I treat as many sections as I can in the spring with a used oil/diesel fuel mix.
That is why I chose not to paint them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have 1000' of wood fencing along the front of our property that was first put up around 30 years ago. I replace the boards as they are needed. I treat as many sections as I can in the spring with a used oil/diesel fuel mix.
That is why I chose not to paint them.
I asked several months ago why the paint kept peeling and was told never to paint a fence, use stain instead. I always thought a white fence made a property look more expensive like I have horses running in the pasture.
 

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I asked several months ago why the paint kept peeling and was told never to paint a fence, use stain instead. I always thought a white fence made a property look more expensive like I have horses running in the pasture.
Opaque white stain. Looks like paint, soaks into the wood like stain.
 

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We have horses, and about two acres around the house have four board 5’ high fence like yours.
Fenced and cross fenced, a lot of 4X4 and 1X6, all PT.
Plus, I ran 47” tall wire field fence with it to keep the dogs confined to the main area around the house.
Ours was built in 2007, and the modern “environmentally friendly “ PT is crap. The old .25 CCA treating will last three times as long.

Our problem is lack of funds, being retired and all. What I’ve been doing is replacing the really bad ones as needed. And I never painted or stained the wood, it just aged a nice shade of gray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Solved: It took me less than 5 minutes to dig out 2 fence posts, so I will relocate posts as necessary.
.........................................

1st major problem. For some reason, when the previous owner built the fence, he spaced the posts at 8' 2" (98") instead of 8'.

The 8' pickets are exactly 96". If they were an inch longer they might work. I don't think 8' pine or PT will work either.

Some sections are less than 8', so I can use the pickets. There are at least 4 boards I can reuse.

Now I have to decide if it is worth it to relocate the posts. They weren't set in concrete and are loose, but not loose enough to just pull out. My guess is if I pull them out, I will find they are rotted and need to be replaced.
 

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I have 1000' of wood fencing along the front of our property that was first put up around 30 years ago. I replace the boards as they are needed. I treat as many sections as I can in the spring with a used oil/diesel fuel mix.
That is why I chose not to paint them.
I just heard about mixing used oil and diesel fuel (1:1) this year. I tried it this summer on a fence that I rebuilt that had been put in in 1985. It was a dog-eared privacy fence in a residential area. When the project was complete and a few days had passed to let the odor subside, the neighbors (and I) think that it looks absolutely great. I plan on doing this here on out.
 

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I just heard about mixing used oil and diesel fuel (1:1) this year. I tried it this summer on a fence that I rebuilt that had been put in in 1985. It was a dog-eared privacy fence in a residential area. When the project was complete and a few days had passed to let the odor subside, the neighbors (and I) think that it looks absolutely great. I plan on doing this here on out.
I’ll have to try that sometime myself. I just figured Moonriver wanted to stick with white, as he mentioned he liked the way it looked. Oil and diesel would be a heck of a lot cheaper than opaque stain.
 

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Solved: It took me less than 5 minutes to dig out 2 fence posts, so I will relocate posts as necessary.
.........................................

1st major problem. For some reason, when the previous owner built the fence, he spaced the posts at 8' 2" (98") instead of 8'.

The 8' pickets are exactly 96". If they were an inch longer they might work. I don't think 8' pine or PT will work either.

Some sections are less than 8', so I can use the pickets. There are at least 4 boards I can reuse.

Now I have to decide if it is worth it to relocate the posts. They weren't set in concrete and are loose, but not loose enough to just pull out. My guess is if I pull them out, I will find they are rotted and need to be replaced.
Lots of treated material is actually longer than normal. 8 ft board is normally 96 inch. 8 foot treated lumber is often 97 inch or a bit more. Might have something to do with the spacing.

Kind of off subject but a lot of normal lumber measurements have changed. 2 x 4 used to be 3 and one half inches wide. Many now measure less than that. Same for many 2 x 8 boards. Pain in the rear when you get a mix of them form the lumber yard. Have to watch out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I worked hard for about 3 days and then old age got me. I could barely walk for the next 2 days as my knees and feet hurt so bad. Got back at it yesterday, but it was a day of mistakes. I hate when that happens. For the first 3 days, everything worked on the 1st try.

I have several other projects to work on so I think I will try to limit working on the fence to a couple of hours a day. Once I get all the posts in the right places and the top boards in place, the rest should be easy.
 
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