My goat list needs critiqued

Discussion in 'Goats' started by diamonds, Jan 13, 2007.

  1. diamonds

    diamonds Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    S.W. Arkansas
    A little personal history about myself and then the question.

    I am a RN who has semi retired. Wanted out of the rat race. So care and things such as tubing and delivery will be alittle easier for me the first time. I was also raised on a farm with goats, chickens, cattle, ducks and pigs. I did do the normal chores on the farm but my parents did all the vaccinations, sick critter and birthing stuff. Now to the question...


    I get my babies in March. I am getting 2 does and 1 buck. They will be 2 weeks old when I pick them up. I have their area built and the shed (14x20) done. I have their area fenced and ready also. I did fence 2 separate areas with a gate between to use if needed.

    I am compiling a list of everything I need. I want it on hand before a problem occurs. I am 57 miles from town and there are no vets in my area that do goats.

    My list is....
    -mineral oil
    -molasses
    -pediolyte
    -diatomaccous earth(fossil shell flour)
    -purina goat mineral
    -alfalfa hay
    -baking soda
    -CD/T for vaccinations
    -nutri-drench
    -drencher
    -syringes
    -thermometer
    -bo-se
    -ivmec injectable
    -nipples
    -tubing equipment

    Is there anything that you feel that I am missing? I want to get the orders placed and delivered before I pick them up.
     
  2. cayenne47

    cayenne47 Critter Mama Supporter

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    NW Oregon
    get some pepto-bismol, either at the grocery store or some co-ops and feed stores sell 'peptin' by the gallon. It works for upset tummies and diarrhea. They come out with pink lips but it helps
     

  3. cayenne47

    cayenne47 Critter Mama Supporter

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    NW Oregon
    Oh, and injectable vitamin B and syringes and needles.
    Hoof shears and a rasp.
    Blood stop powder.
    Iodine for wounds.
    Thats all i can think of at this point
     
  4. goatkid

    goatkid Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Biomycin, Penn G. Nuflor or Excenel, Banamine, thiamin and Probios.
     
  5. Caprice Acres

    Caprice Acres AKA "mygoat" Staff Member Supporter

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    Here's a link to my webpage that has the list of equipment that I keep : My website
     
  6. ozark_jewels

    ozark_jewels Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Well, I would have Activated Charcoal, C&D Antitoxin, and Lactated Ringers for dehydrated goats.

    I hesitate to add this, but......I do not like Purina Goat Minerals. My goats hated them, they were too expensive and full of too much salt. My goats also did very poorly on them. So if you could locate a better mineral, it might be a good thing. Sweetlix or Bluebonnet are two that are pretty good.....

    Also, I see you are in Arkansas?? I'm up here in Missouri and Ivomec no longer works well enough in this area. Talking to breeders in Arkansas, they say the same thing. So you might think on Valbazen for tapeworms and Cydectin for the other worms??

    Good luck!! :)
     
  7. diamonds

    diamonds Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I will add the things to my list. I will also change to Valbazen and Cydectin. If the Ivomec is not working in this area then I will not mess with it at all.

    So which is better the Sweetlix or Bluebonnet? I want them to have a good start in life. It is easier to keep them healthy verses having problems crop up.
     
  8. ozark_jewels

    ozark_jewels Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I think Bluebonnet Tech Master is better....but its harder to get in this part of the country.....you can but ask at your feedstores. :)
     
  9. diamonds

    diamonds Well-Known Member

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    Can I order it online for delivery. I do not mind keeping ahead of the needs. I just knew the purina was avaiable at the feedstore was why I was going with it.
     
  10. dezeeuwgoats

    dezeeuwgoats Well-Known Member

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    Great thread! I'm updating my supplies........

    I would definately second the b-complex and probiotics. They are my first line of defense. I use kefir - anyone 'off' gets b and kefir - my does LOVE it, actually suck it right out of the drench gun. I make it myself and it has over 30 + different probiotics in it. I have found if I can catch them early enough those two things will nine times out of ten pull them out of it.

    My votes for nonessential but nice: for kid injections I really love the syringes made for diabetics. It is so easy to give them a shot and they hardly notice, the needles are so small. I also use Preparation H for sore vulvas after hard deliveries. I can actually see them give a sigh of relief and relax after I pat some on. That was a recommendation from my breeder!

    Niki
     
  11. ozark_jewels

    ozark_jewels Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I'm not sure....here is their website.

    http://bluebonnetfeeds.com/

    I called the number from the website and they were very helpful. I asked and they directed me to the closest dealer for their products. Turned out they were only about 50 miles away. :)

    I have to call in about two weeks before I need it, but they can order everything in for me.
     
  12. Vicki McGaugh TX Nubians

    Vicki McGaugh TX Nubians Well-Known Member

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    There are several Arkansas breeders on dairygoatinfo.com talk wiith Kaye White see what vet she uses.

    Everything you are needing can be found in the jeffers catalog...call 1-8000jeffers and ask them to send their livesock, pet and equine catalogs. or go to jefferspet.com and click on livestock. Lots of stuff you are ordering is fluff, with 3 infant kids you should be concentrating on kid things.

    Someone is going to disbud them right? If not find one of the gal to take them to and get them done. Is the male going to be for breeding, if not castrate him at the same time. So get some Furox to continue to spray the hornbuds. They will need their vaccinations for CD&T at 6, 9 and 12 weeks, so 3cc syringes and needles also. Valbazen 1cc per 10 pounds orally (a syringe to do this with) starting at 3 weeks old. Bottle feeding equipment, ask the breeder what she is going to start them on, if she does not use lambar nipples send her 3. Then by 2 weeks they will be used to them and you can move the 3 onto a bucket feeder, cheap and soo simple. Use Grocery store milk no matter what, dont' let anyone talk you into milk replacer. Something to put the hay in off the ground they will start by eating only the tender leaves, grain and minerals come much much later, keep this in the house so it does not get wet from humidity, and bring out to the barn only what you are trying to get them to eat. Put off buying your minerals until you talk to someone in your area and buy what they use. Jeffers carries the shear majic hoof shears, and goat weigh tapes, get both.

    You will want to keep these little guys dry, notice I did not say warm. They come in fur coats, so if their area is soo warm that you can take your coat off it is too enclosed for them. Keep them out of the rain and blowing wind, but not out of the cool crisp air and any sunshine you have :)

    Meds can be ordered as you learn more about what you want to use them for, a kid isn't going to get into anything that they would need pennicillin.

    At 3 weeks and every 21 days after that for 5 days you need to use a sulfa on them, or you can add this to their bottles each day, some find that eaiser, with Deccox M from jeffers. This will handle cocci.

    You won't need Bo-se for months, no reason to get it now, plus you have to get a vet script anyway and you have to meet a vet :)

    Probiotics, the dispersable powder in Jeffers is great to add to bottles. Masking diarrhea with pepto and the like...use prevention, only feed grocery store milk and you won't have one day of diarrhea.

    Goat nutridrench and the like is wasteful, it is good for nothing :) If you want to use vitamins for your kids, than use a horse tonic with iron and vitamins in it, just don't put so much into the bottles that they refuse to take them. You will never be giving your kids electrolytes or pedilite stuff, ever. If they are dehydrated you will use lacated ringers subq, setups can be purchased at pipevet.com or from your vet you will have.

    If you don't use molassas you won't have to use sodium bicarb :)

    Make sure you put out very tiny water buckets when the kids are about 3 weeks old, although some kids don't drink very much water until after weaning. Make sure if they jump into the bucket that it will tip over easily.

    DE I am sure is fine for spreading in the bedding to keep fly larve down, it's just so irritating to lung tissue, so I wouldn't use it in my kid pen anyway.

    The vet thermometers in jeffers are great because they come on a string and in a pencile case, so they don't get lost in bedding.

    You will add to your stock of supplies as you go, have fun! Vicki
     
  13. diamonds

    diamonds Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Location:
    S.W. Arkansas
    Thanks Vicki..I really appreciate your help. I just want to keep them healthy. As far as scripts go I can get them wrote but not a vet that will come out my way.

    For water I bought one of those ceramic rabbit water bowls for right now. I do not want to use buckets on them yet. IMHO they would be too little. The breeder also said I could wait to water because of the milk. He said just to offer a little hay for them to find and chew on.

    The breeder will also disbud them for me. I did not realise I would need Furox and I did put that on my list too. I figured my list may have items on it that will not get used. I am just worried that if something goes wrong that I will not be able to "fix" the problem.

    Maybe I am just too worried. I have read all the threads and things that have went wrong. I have also read the advice on fixing the problem. Just scared about the dollar short and day late principle.

    I will also go and register at dairygoatinfo.com. I can use all the help I can get. You all have been really helpful.