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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to figure out how a site member here did this. Here is the post:


The best I could come up with, is to run two metal rods through the brackets to secure the cement board in place?

Can anyone make heads or tail from this post and help us with a method because it is quite convenient to use cement board alone without needing tile AND reducing the clearance space required at the same time, right?

Thanks so much in advance!

PS I apologize that I have never successfully urinated through a screen door off of a porch before but there is always a first time for everything, right?
 

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Bracket isn't the right word. I believe they are talking about mounting the upright bracket holders to the wall then mounting the cement board to the upright supports. This is the piece,

 

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There are a couple products commonly used in commercial construction that could be fastened to the wall, then fasten the cement board to them and they will hold the cement board in place 1" (or whatever gap you prefer) from the wall behind it.
Look up these items:
  • Metal zee furring
  • Metal hat channels
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bracket isn't the right word. I believe they are talking about mounting the upright bracket holders to the wall then mounting the cement board to the upright supports. This is the piece,

A: The metal strips are 5/8" deep.
bySailguy2|Oct 10, 2021

So, we would need 1" deep right?

Just look for stand offs. Pick the material and color. Simple to use and effective.
So, this huh?


Now is the material proper since we are working with a fireproof application or would you suggest a different material?

There are a couple products commonly used in commercial construction that could be fastened to the wall, then fasten the cement board to them and they will hold the cement board in place 1" (or whatever gap you prefer) from the wall behind it.
Look up these items:
  • Metal zee furring
  • Metal hat channels
Aha, so this:


The "furring" seems to be less accessible to the general public.
 

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Somewhere in your area is a supply house that sells to commercial builders, drywallers, etc.
They will have this or the zee type material.

You could also easily bend some up on a sheet metal brake.
 

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I used the ceramic insulators that are used for electric fencing with wooden fence posts. Just drive a screw through the cement board and the hole in the insulator and into the wall.
Now that is genius! So simple yet so perfect.

I nominate this the MacGyver post of the week!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

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Wood would be fine too. Just get some 1x2 furring strips. Cut into blocks or run vertically to allow airflow.
A lot of insurance providers would specify non-combustible materials for the heat shield and anchors. Might seem like nit-picking, but I would use a non-combustible spacer rather than risk having to pull it and do it again.
 

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Hat track is what I use then use dura rock cement board , some of the others boards just smell bad when you heat them .
Leave a air space on the top and bottom so the wall stays cool .
Home depto sells the stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hat track is what I use then use dura rock cement board , some of the others boards just smell bad when you heat them .
Leave a air space on the top and bottom so the wall stays cool .
Home depto sells the stuff
We are quickly getting to the point to where this will be the most practical solution but I am still erm, trying to suit the decor of the house via matching colors and such. So far, striking out on decorative fireproof cement board.... :'(

 

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Here is my stove at the cabin, it’s got hat track over dry wall with durarock
The stone go’s on with thin set mortar the same stuff that you u,se on floor tile .
As far as steal go’s you could use Corrugated roofing either new or used.
There is metal sheeting to cover ceiling .
Wood Interior design Flooring Floor Hall
 
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