metal specialist

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by agmantoo, Jul 18, 2004.

  1. agmantoo

    agmantoo agmantoo Supporter

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    I am wanting to make or buy a 10 inch blade similar to the one here http://valleyoaktool.com/accessories.html that will hold and edge and not break. I am interested in something that will function like a bimetallic blade, strong and flexible backing with a hard edge holding front. Any suggestions as to material to use?
     
  2. You shouldn't need exotic or expensive metals to accomplish what you need. If the entire blade were made of only one metal then you would have to settle for a balance between the strong flexible properties and the ability to hold an edge, since harder metals tend to be brittle.

    Farmers and heavy exuipment operators have long used 'hardfacing' to accomplish what you need. Hardfacing is simply welding a bead if hard metal on the locations where the edge is to be maintained.

    You should use a stick welder to hardface. Try 7018 rod, it should be hard enough for your purpose and still be fairly easy to machine. If you don't have a welder yourself it should be easy to find a local welding shop experienced in the art of hardfacing.
     

  3. Don Armstrong

    Don Armstrong In Remembrance

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    Depends on your metalworking capabilities. However, one of the best sources of high-grade steel around here is sawmills. Their BIG circular saws wear down after a while, but what's still left is high-grade tool steel. Becoming popular with bladesmiths and cutlers.
     
  4. owhn

    owhn Well-Known Member

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    This may be differ from what you have been planning, but you could simply use some lower grade carbon steel for the blade and then case harden it. Look up Kasenite (sp?). It seems like this would meet your needs.

    truly bimetallic (like damascene blades hammered and rehammered) ...hmmm a leetle bit fussy for a farm implement

    and while welding wear onto steel is ok (stoody rods have worked great for me when I wanted it to never wear out) you really are going through quite a bit of work... and have more chances with thermal distortion etc.

    really a matter of how many how often and is it worth it?


    owhn
     
  5. BrushBuster

    BrushBuster Well-Known Member

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    if you have a blacksmith in your area or somebody handy with torches. you can use i solid piece of high carbon steel and temper the cutting edge to very hard (usually a blue color) and then gradually decrease the hardness in back of the cutting edge to normalized or possibly spring depending on the pressure exerted on it. that should give you very good wear on the edge with good tuffness to carry it.
     
  6. You should be able to make a similar blade that will give you good service out of any piece of tool grade steel. The blades in the photos look quite thin but depending on how thick you want the blade (and what you have kicking around), I would use an old cross cut/rip saw or a two-man saw or ice saw. If you want a thicker blade, see if you can locate a used band mill blade (think giant band saw) or even the blade off a small portable band mill might just work. Another option would be a leaf spring assembly off an old (1970’s) snowmobile. Most used several stacked leaves for the front suspension. One of them should be almost ideal size and thickness. Good Luck.