Metal roofing, 26 or 29 gauge?

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by Dexter, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. Dexter

    Dexter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    386
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2008
    Location:
    B.C.
    My kit home comes with 26 gauge, but I hear it dings and bends possibly leaving permanant marks.

    Will 29 gauge be significantly better? It's an EXTRA $1600.

    It's windy here, heavy snow in winter, and the roof will have several gables, so it does require a pro to put up.

    Thanks!
     
  2. glazed

    glazed Tough Girl, Be Gentle

    Messages:
    3,486
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2006
    Location:
    The Lone Star State
    I thought the smaller the number the thicker it is ... so isn't 29 thinner than 26?

    It is quite possible I have no idea what I am talking about ... hopefully someone will come along and answer your question correctly and with expertise :)
     

  3. tamsam

    tamsam Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,321
    Joined:
    May 12, 2006
    Location:
    north central wv
    I also was taught that the lower the number the thicker the medal. They might use a different way in roofing. Sam
     
  4. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

    Messages:
    8,181
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2004
    Location:
    MN
    I think you got the numbers backwards. But yes, the thicker stuff is better.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_metal

    These things can be deciving tho, I would really look into it. Some manufaturers count the coating (galvanized or alumaclad or whatever zinc/paint coating is put on) and some do not. If you compare different suppliers, be sure each is using the _same_ terms.

    It is easy for me to spend your money, but, the thin stuff is for a developer to build with & pawn the cheap house off onto someone else; the thicker stuff is for a homeowner to put on & live there all his life with a good roof.

    --->Paul
     
  5. Windy in Kansas

    Windy in Kansas In Remembrance

    Messages:
    11,076
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    Seems I have some foggy notion that I have read some roofing metals are heat treated to add strength.

    Anyone know about that?
     
  6. SteveO

    SteveO Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    455
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Location:
    tn at last
    Morning,
    Check and see if they are saying gauge or .029 or .026 a point 029 is thicker than a .026. But a 26 gauge is thicker than a 29 gauge. The most important part of the metal roof is the seams and fasteners. Because of hot and cold the metal will tear elongated hole where ever you put a fastener. That being said a system with concealed fasteners is the best. Most likely yours is a nail on style. Have the manufacturer give you the wind rating for his roof material. Also instead of nails they make a screw with a rubber gasket on it that will last longer. I live in the northeast and deal with the same extremes you do so don't plan on your roof lasting longer than 10 years. As a way to cheat hopefully you are putting this on a ply wood base put a peal and stick ice barrior on at least the bottom 6 ft and felt the rest. It will give you added protection. But also at a cost.'Light colors move less than dark and make sure you get the bottom and top gaskets in right the first time. Do overs are a pain
    Also the comment from above is correct it is 100k psi sheeting
    Hope it helped
    Steve
     
  7. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,213
    Joined:
    May 10, 2002
    Anybody here remember the real early corrugated galvanized roofing. Used to be called corrugated iron. Havent seen any in years but it was very heavy gauge, must been like 16 gauge, maybe even heavier. There have been times I'd of loved to have been able to get some, not necessarily for roofing but for other uses. Use it for roofing and I would guess it would last 100 years especially if you tarred it after it started rusting. I've only seen it on some very old outbuildings.
     
  8. fordy

    fordy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,230
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2003
    Location:
    Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
    ..........I'm assuming your metal roofing will be attached to either plywood or a wood lath , any insulation installed between metal and it's supports will absorb the noise created when rain or hail hits the metal . Personally , I'd want some of that 1 inch thick styrofoam sheeting in 4 x 8 sheets installed between the metal and it's support . , fordy
     
  9. Windy in Kansas

    Windy in Kansas In Remembrance

    Messages:
    11,076
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Location:
    South Central Kansas
    Better yet spray on foam insulation for sound deadening. Ever been in a farm shed when it is raining or hailing? WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!

    Yep H.J. many of our old farmstead buildings had the heavy corrugated iron on them. Still a couple of them surviving. We had two barns--- called them the Horse Barn and the "Steel Barn".
     
  10. Jenn

    Jenn Well-Known Member Supporter

    Messages:
    7,189
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2004
    Location:
    Alabama
    my roofer talked me into the cheaper one (must be all he stocks :) ) and we've been content BUT we have lot of attic between us and the roof.
     
  11. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

    Messages:
    8,181
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2004
    Location:
    MN
    My grainery was built in 1909. The standing seam roof is still good. Not sure what gauge it is.... Been resprayed with aluma paint 3 times. Not to cover holes, but to keep the surface from rusting.

    Some of the side tin (a brick pattern) is starting to rust through from the inside - where the mouse p accumulates....

    --->Paul