Massey Ferguson 135 counterweight

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by danes-volkov, Sep 21, 2004.

  1. danes-volkov

    danes-volkov Member

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    Hi, I'm a later middle aged woman living in England, my husband has kindly bought me a Massey Ferguson135 to help me in my smallholding (homesteading) activities. I need to construct a concrete (or any other) counterweight for the front end load which is only tipping sporadically due to the lack of one. Any ideas please?
     
  2. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    If I understand you correctly you have a 135 with a front mounted earth moveing bucket that is not dumping correctly. The buckets are usually hydraulicly operated with a cylinder mounted on both sides, the smaller ones doing the dumping, the larger pair doing the lifting. There should be no need for any counterweight, the hydraulic pressure is adequate to dump the bucket if the system is working correctly Can you place a picture here? Or a link to a site that offers a picture?

    Pulses dureing dumping could be air in the system, bent cylinder rods, lack of lubrication at pivot points, sticking hydraulic valves, and many other things. Can you add more information to your post? Do I understand the problem as stated?
     

  3. Ross

    Ross Moderator Staff Member Supporter

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    Are the rear wheels loaded with calcium water or antifreeze? If not they probably should be, unless you're using it to mow a golf course! There are cast steel wheel weights that can be bolted to the rims if the loaded tires are not enough. This is your best option. The biggest problem with hitch mounted weight is that you have to un-mount it to hitch up implements like a rear blade. A cross bar hitch that goes between the lower lift arms can have weights added and removed. (some front mount weights are suitable if they have a loop handle) We've used our rear blade loaded with chain as a counter weight, and a rear mounted pallet fork with a pallet of weight secured on, and we had an angle iron counter weight made from an angle iron frame and a barrel filled with concrete. The barrel was the biggest pain in the rear to use, mount, and un-mount.
     
  4. jacksun

    jacksun Active Member

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    the best and cheapest is to take a barrel metal preferred and put a 3point hitch bar through it high enough that when you lower the 3pt hitch you can hook it up and raise it then fill it with cement or metal scraps rocks ect be careful not to put in too much weight.
     
  5. golfball

    golfball Member

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    The three point hitch of a M-S 135 cannot lift very much weight at all. The 135 is not built for any heavy duty work. It is a light to medium-light duty tractor.
     
  6. danes-volkov

    danes-volkov Member

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    Hi Thankl you all so much for your ideas. I think that characteristically I have not made myself clear!! As Jacksun says, this is a counterweight to go on the back of the tractor. However, I am now wondering just how much weight I should put in my drum? I gather from Golfball that he doesn't think my tractor would be up to it but it's a robust old thing (rather like me). Compared to these huge modern tractors it is of course tiny but when I worked on a fruit farm years ago we did all the work with 135s.

    I am much exercised by the idea that my bucket might work without a counterweight. Someone is coming to take a look at the tractor soon so I'll ask him what he thinks. Although I've been using it all summer for topping, (with front weights on) I intend to put the loader back in winter to use it instead of a wheelbarrow for mucking out. Any ideas or thoughts about this a v. welcome. Can't post pix, not technologically advanced enough.
     
  7. danes-volkov

    danes-volkov Member

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    Am so dozey that I realise I haven't queried two things that people have posted (a) my bucket is tripped by a trigger and a hefty spring - only it either doesn't trip or having tripped doesn't re-set (b) My back tires are filled with air, don't know about filling them with anything else... Pleas enlarge.
     
  8. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    You can add water to your tires, antifreeze also if your in a cold climate, by useing a device that bleeds out the air as water is put in via a garden hose. Any agency that sells agricultural tires should be able to get one for you, its a small metal valve that should sell for about $5.00 (US). Just park the tractor with the valve stem at the top, hook up the hose, turn on the water and shut it off when water comes out of the bleeder valve after the air is exhausted.
     
  9. Ross

    Ross Moderator Staff Member Supporter

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    I've always had the tirs loaded by a tire repair co. They use a pump that extracts all the air and replaces it with the liquid. You'll want to use water with disolved Calcium or antifreeze, as I assume it does freeze in winter there. The calcium is corrosive so you'll not want to touch it. All this is not going to help with your bucket tripping and as I re-read the question I'm thinking you want to counter weight the bucket so it will snap back and lock after dumping. If it is like the ones I've seen it has a manure bucket with a dirt plate attachment that slides and bolts on over the forks? These would be very hard to counter weight, if it's just a plain bucket I would try bolting on steel plates until it tips back or maybe a box with concrete but its going to hard to balance too much with enough. You'd never regret changing it over to a hydraulic dumping bucket!!
     
  10. tkrabec

    tkrabec Well-Known Member

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    My brother has calcium in his tires and he keeps the box blade on for extra counter weight

    he has a Kubota Grand 30 L or sommat

    -- Tim