Making cages or buying them? Which is better?

Discussion in 'Rabbits' started by holleegee, May 4, 2005.

  1. holleegee

    holleegee Well-Known Member

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    Do you find it cheaper to build your own cages or is it cheaper to buy them? I have the cagalog from Bass and have requested from 2 others, I have checked prices at our feed store and at local farm stores. I want all wire, no wood cages. If you build your own, do you buy the premade doors? I do not have my rabbits yet (I pick them up the first weekend in June) I am getting 4 rabbits. I plan on showing and breeding them but the max. I plan on keeping for my breeding stock would be 15. Thanks for your help! Holly
     
  2. Caelma

    Caelma Well-Known Member

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    I make all mine cause it is cheaper, you can make them the size you want
    and you can make them as many sections as you want.
    I buy at the local feed store a 100 ft roll of 1/2 by 1 and 24 inch wide.

    I make out of this 100 ft roll
    one 2 section and one 4 section
    The 2 section is 2 ft wide, 2 ft high and 6 feet long with a divider
    in the middle, giving each rabbit 2 x 3 living quarters
    My 4 section is 2 wide, 2 high by 12 long.
    (But you can also make them seperate)
    I order my doors
    The roll is about 108. with tax
    the J-clips are $7. for 2 bags
    so for under $120 I have enough sections for 6 rabbits.
    The pre made ones here of the same size are about $45 to $70 each and
    are seperate not in sections. Mine cost me about $20. a section.

    One idea for the nest boxes. I was told about drop ones and they are wonderful. In case you're not familar I make a mini cage/basket type thingy
    out of the wire big enough to hold a nest box. Cut a hole in the bottom of the cage to one side and J-clip the basket to the hole in the floor. Hope I am explaining it so it makes sense. Purpose is, when mothers jump out of nest boxes sometimes a baby is still nursing and ends up on the wire and hopefully survives till you find it.
    When the nest box is below cage level they usually wiggle themselves till they fall back in the nest box. Thus less chance of a dead baby on wire when you wake one morning.
    (Note: Most people do not use 1/2 x 1 . It is my personal perfer instead of making a cage and then putting baby saver wire on it.
    I don't find that it is a cleaning problem.
    I simply hose it occationally.)
    Happy cage making :D

    PS: I order the doors from www.woodyswabbits.com
    for something like $3.65 each for a large door including latch
    smaller doors are less.
    And depending on the breed you have 100 ft may get you more cgaes.
    I just like them to have large ones. I have NZ's and Cals.
    Mini's can be smaller.
    I do find my 24 high is more than needed but it is not sold in 18 inch high
    where I get the wire. 18 inches would be much less waste at the top.
    I have been thinking of adding/j-clipping a roof at 18 inches and using the 6 inches at the top for storage of extra bowls and things they can't
    chew on or damage.
     

  3. animal_kingdom

    animal_kingdom Well-Known Member

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  4. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    A far as making your own doors go, it is a simple matter of doubleing back a single vertical edge of the mest on both sides and securing with a 'J' clips. The hindge is also only a hog ring at about 3 places, we use spring loaded snap clips instead of a usual latch, its much more secure.

    The sides and top is 1 by 2 inch, the floor is 1/2 by 1 conserning the wire. Our cages are hung on a system that looks like a clothes line but with 2 by 4's rather than clothes line. Everything falls clear doing it this way, no waste build up.
     
  5. Meg Z

    Meg Z winding down

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    J-clips make good door hinges, too, if they aren't clamped down too tightly. :p . I make my doors, because I prefer them to swing out and down. The doors that swing in always startle my buns. I make them about two inches wider than the opening on the non-hinged sides, to prevent any ambitious bunnies from wiggling out, and secure them with plain ole claw hooks on a string, so I don't lose them. Never lost a bun, or had a damaged bun, so works for me!

    Meg
     
  6. Rosarybeads

    Rosarybeads Well-Known Member

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    I've used those boxes from Bass, and LOVE them. My parents still use them. Saved alot of little bunnies that way. They are great!
     
  7. Dian

    Dian Well-Known Member

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    ranchlady-have you checked to see if they have or can get the wire in 36in. roll it is usually not much higher priced and you can cut it to 17in. high and get twice as many cages out of a roll. A little more cutting, but quite a bit of money saved. Dian
     
  8. Caelma

    Caelma Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone say DUH!!!!!!!!!
    Dian I never thought of that. :rolleyes:
    Why do the simplest of ideas seem to be the ones
    that fly right over our heads.
    Yes they do sell it in 36 ft.
    I can't believe I had not thought of that.
    I was origionally going to do 36 x 36 cages until some on this board
    suggested 24 wide so I can get to the rabbits easier.
    36 inch is only $125. So for 25 more I get 6 more cages :D
    Dang I feel so stupid :rolleyes:
    Thank you. Great idea and thats what I am going to do.

    MOOPUPS, great idea on the clothes line type hanging area.
    Can you post a pic and some instructions on this?
    Pretty please?
     
  9. pointer_hunter

    pointer_hunter Well-Known Member

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    When I hung my cages, I ran a 2x4 along the wall horizontally, then I ran 26" long pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" conduit out from them. They have clips for the conduit that you can screw into the top of the 2x4 to hold them in place. Then slide the conduit through two cage holes at the top all the way through and then run some small chain or wire down from the rafter with a washer hooked to the end. Slip the washer over the end of the conduit and let gravity hold everything in place. I'd post a picture, but I don't think I have one, and the barn is down now :waa:
     
  10. daytrader

    daytrader Well-Known Member

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    I make my own cages as well. I did for my bunnies 10 years ago and am working on about 40 cages this weekend. I make most of my stuff.

    The doors are easy to make. I have seen no reason to by pre made doors. They are real expensive and so easy to make.
     
  11. Caelma

    Caelma Well-Known Member

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    Ok spill the beans and tell us how to make them.
    I use to but was tired of the sharp edges.
    I had even took that drill attachment tool and grinded down the
    sharp ends. Just got tired of it (ok ok maybe we can say just got lazy)
    For 3.65 ish I have a door and a latch pre made

    Please share how you do it?
     
  12. daytrader

    daytrader Well-Known Member

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    3.65is is to much for me. I do not make a fancy door. Just a simple birds man door.

    Good old J chaps and a spring. With heavy welded wire. I never have a problen with the edges. I would say try a different set of cutters like lines man dikes. They cut real close and nice a clean. I also use 12 inch so I do not have to cut the tops or bottoms.

    You can also add the 1"x1/8" firing strips to add that special touch to the door.

    When you are talking 3.50 for a door you are talking about a large amount of capitol for the adverage cage maker. I can make 30x24x18 inch woven wire not welded cages all day for about 14 bucks. With out a dropping tray. Welded wire is even cheaper if you buy it in 250" rolls. The woven wire is very thick. No broken welds and it will not rust out. I normally use a welded wire door on woven wire cages.

    You have to use nice large guage woven wire. The cheap thin stuff is too weak.

    This same cage will hold a pit bull, so rabbits are no problem. I use cattle woven wire you can get it at any farm store. If a cow or hourse can't break it. It will last a while for rabbits and chickens.
     
  13. daytrader

    daytrader Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I forgot to add. It has been a while for me. I am setting up now for rabbits again. So do not get me wrong. I have been out of it for a while. I got carried away on chickens.

    They may have better things going on now then they had before.

    Its been 10 years for me. Things change.

    All day today I have been setting up my cages. I have them ready to go for the most part. I have to figure out were to set them. I am thinking at my new place. I have about 28 done so far. I will get the rest done tomarrow.

    Then I have to plumb all these silly things.
     
  14. dlwelch

    dlwelch Well-Known Member

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    I don't try to make flush cuts for the door and opening (and I even
    have power shears). I cut the wire longer and bend it back
    around which gives a "protected" finish. It only takes a few
    minutes longer to finish the door and opening in this manner.
    I do flush cut the side of the door where it is clipped to the
    cage.
     
  15. Junkmanme

    Junkmanme Well-Known Member

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    Any Pictures of COMPLETED Homemade rabbit cages? :) :shrug:
     
  16. rabbitgal

    rabbitgal Ex-homesteader

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    I built all mine because at the time I could build a MUCH better quality cage for the same price as the ones retailing in my area. It cost us just under $20 to build a 30" x 36" x 18" cage two years ago before steel started going up. We used 14 gauge wire and the floors are galvanized after weld. Everything is held together with stainless steel C-rings, which don't rust or trap water like many J-clips. That's the expensive way to build cages, but after two years of heavy use, the floors don't sag and there's not a single spot of rust on any of the cages.

    I'd buy used if I could find decent cages though...
     
  17. 6e

    6e Farm lovin wife Supporter

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    I always made my own usually. I could get the galvanized after wire from Klubertanz and they're very reasonable. I had pans under my cages since I stacked and I made the pans from sheet metal that I bought at a local yard store. Much much cheaper that way! And I could make them in any size that I wished. I will say that a good pair of J-clip pliers is a must!