Homesteading Forum banner
21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,243 Posts
comfortablynumb said:
whats the pressure relief look like?
On a splitter it would tipically be built into the valve, and would involve that 3rd hyd line you mentioned. With a stronger engine, you should be able to keep the engine running, but the ram stops because of max hyd pressure. The oil flows through the spring loaded pressure relief valve. It's basically a little valve with a spring holding it, the spring & any metal washers determine the pressure on many, while others have an adjustable screw instead of washers.

As to another question you had I didn't notice before, NO you can't use copper tube for hyd lines. This is 2000 to 2500 lbs of pressure we are talking about. You need special steel tube or the hyd hose with braided wire. Don't use water pipe fittings either - they don't cut it. You don't want to fool around here, this has the potential to cause harm. Hyd hose is a couple bucks a foot, how can copper be cheaper anyhow???????

Your control valve does not sound safe. There should be a center position where nothing moves. If yours drifts, you are set up to catch your hand in the splitter and cause some real injories. A new valve with detent in one direction is only a few bucks, check out Northern Tool, they specialize in wood splitter parts. What you have is not a good thing. Going through life without a hand is not priceless.....

--->Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
If it stalls every time it hits the end of the ram, it sounds like it has no relief valve in the line at all, this is a hazard waiting to burst something.
Cheap control valves with spring return to detent center can be found everywhere, and many have the relief valve integral all in one package.
And the proper annealed steel tubing is cheaper than copper or hose, and works just fine, just don't pick too small an inner diameter.
Using anything under rated in the high pressure side of the pump is dangerous, even simple things like plugs become bullets, been shot by your logsplitter lately ?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
ahh cool.. the copper question was a "I might need to know" question.... glad you answered!

the control has a neutral position, you just have to find it (not hard) and it stays there... of course unless you bump the lever.

the pusher stops 9" from the cutter...

still i dont like the touchy lever, I will go get a speing loaded one, I would like it to snap back to neutral whn ya let it go.
it doesnt stall when it hits the end of the ram, sorry I didnt make that clear, it did before i reset the governor spring... now it hits the end and bogs the engine down a lot but doesnt so far to stall it.

if a new valve has a safty thing in it I definitely will pick one up. I dont need this dinoasur mauling me....

thanks for the tip and keeping me from hurtin myself!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·


here is the arrangement of the hoses... the valve has 4, the replacements i see have 2, whats up? :haha:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,158 Posts
In the last picture posted on the left hand side of the spool is a set screw (bolt) and a lock nut. That is a presure release in the valve. I'm still sorting hoses you may have a seperate one too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,158 Posts
Your valve has four hoses, a supply a return (on the sides) and then the two cylender hoses on the top for extend and retract. Looks like a Greisen open center valve to me but there are similar style from other companies. Not important unless you're rebuilding it. New ones probably have two of the ports plugged with screw out steel plugs so you can run it single action or double action and have one side capped off or both connected. This valve won't kick back to neutral or retract when it hits the end of the ram's stroke? Mine won't either and its a pain to use, but we usually have one person running the splitter while the other loads and switch every so often. It looks like your line runs through a filter or screen after the valve which I would change (eliminate) but others wouldn't. In the first picture there's a block with 3 hoses (near the bottom of the pic) that is likely a presure release valve as well, and with a screen down stream from the pump I'd certainly leave that in! You can't see the pump is there a screw on filter before it runs through the pump?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·


top pic bottom left corner is the top of this filter, it seems to be filtering the oil as it returns to the tank
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top