lexan roofing - howto?

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by dkingman, Feb 21, 2005.

  1. dkingman

    dkingman New Member

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    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2005
    Location:
    Hawaii
    I have designed and built a 1920sqft Coffee drying deck (aka. greenhouse)

    http://www.konamist.info/gallery/drying-deck

    My carpenter (who said he knew about roofing) screwed up $4000 worth of corrugated Lexan(Suntuf) by pre-drilling holes in the wrong places and then proceeded to install 13 sheets (with holes) before I caught what he had done (was doing) and let him go.

    I have called all the roofing outfits on the Big Island of Hawaii and none are interested in installing corrugated Lexan. Sooo... I guess I am going to have to do it myself.

    1st question: What is the best way to keep from being admitted to the hospital and get this roof installed? (...or, any saftey techniques or recomendations on moving 275lbs (me) on 1/16" plastic 20-30 feet off the ground?)

    2nd question: What is the best way to fix all those damn holes.

    Already proposed:
    A. Nail up a 2X2 under the errant holes using screws to plug the holes.
    B. Cut up a bunch of Lexan 1/2" squares and glue them over the holes (IPS weld-on #3?)
    C. Buy 44 16' sheets of new Lexan.
    D. Use clear silicone to fill the holes (not sure if it's compatible with polycarbonate or if it will will stand up to UV/water over time).

    Mahalo for any and all suggestions.

    P.S. To experienced roofers: Willing to exchange airfare and provide ohana (guesthouse) for two weeks in paradise for roof completion.
     
  2. mtman

    mtman Well-Known Member

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    AR
    i beleive silicone is the best bet go to a marine store ask for below water line silicone i think it will be fine how big are the holes cant be to big if it was drilled for screwing
     

  3. Annie in MN

    Annie in MN Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, I don't have an answer for you. I just wanted to express my wish that I was an experienced roofer, I'd take you up on your offer in a heartbeat! :haha:
     
  4. mtman

    mtman Well-Known Member

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    i would also put some center supports on those steps there much to steep and long i would have put a landing in the center just a thought
     
  5. KRH

    KRH Resident Wino

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    SW Mich
    I have to agree with mtman on both the marine grade silicone and the fact you realy should put a center support under the stairs. Thats way to long of a run without support.
     
  6. Cosmic

    Cosmic Well-Known Member

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    Jan 19, 2005
    Location:
    Ohio
    Looked at your drawing. That is a pretty easy roof to work on, appears to be about 30 degree slope. Most roofers would not even stage that with roof jacks / planks. Just stand and walk around. Roof jacks are little triangle adjustment critters that allow putting temporary staging planks on a roof in the immediate work area that progressively move as work is done. Probably not totally necessary here.

    My assumption:

    You have this Lexan in long sheets, so-so wide. You don't attempt to get "ON it. Basically would work to the side of it, to place and fasten. Typically work right to left, assuming most workers are right handed. You stand with feet on roof, lean over Lexan to work, never put your full weight on it, plus probably is slippery. Similar to installing metal roofing. You work to the side of the material itself.

    Most local building dept's will require that a roofer "Stage a roof" to provide a safety platform to catch any worker that slips or falls. Can be done using standard pump jacks / platform with usually a ladder laid / tied to upper wing to give the safety rope / barrier. Usually this is positioned within 12" of the gutter. Also can be done with ladder jacks. Many roofers don't do it and many inspectors are lax in enforcement. Common sense says do it you are inexperienced, basically are building an area to allow any material / worker to slide onto and safely stop if they fall. Plus makes getting materials on to the roof itself easier.

    One hazard in your case is probably wind. Large sheets of anything are tricky to handle in a breeze on a roof.

    Would think this project is well within a rookie ability. If you know how it should be done, not much skill required on this particular roof. I might also consider collar ties right under the ridge beam and maybe a bit further down. Pretty good span there, you probably have no snow load to worry about but maybe can get some higher winds.

    The usual drawback to a non-roofer is the specialized equipment / materials required to stage a roof. Probably not that revelant here.

    As to #2, some method that is more permanent. I like that idea of using Lexan bits with some sort of glue / weld material that makes a permanent bond. A filter is probably going to fail at some point in the future.

    I lived a couple years in Hawaii while in the Navy. Sorry I am not available to help you out. Be nice to get out of this damn snow. Had more today. :(
     
  7. ed/IL

    ed/IL Well-Known Member

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    May 11, 2002
    Could you flip the sheets over so the holes in the are in the correct place? 3m makes a product called 5200 that would probably work if you applied a little to both sides of the holes.
     
  8. sisterpine

    sisterpine Goshen Farm Supporter

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    Zone 8a, AZ
    dont know if this helps but i have used the very same stuff on my green house here in montana. it is supposed to be quite hail resistant! i did use clear uv protective silicone to plug a few holes i managed to put in the wrong place. it has held up for the past two years with no problems. also no need to pre drill the stuff, screws go though it just fine as long as you are using the screws made for steel roofing or lexan with the little rubber washer attached. good luck and only take it up a couple of sheets at a time as it will carry you away on the wind. i learned this the hard way and hope you dont!