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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! My wife and I, along with our 2 year old son, just recently moved out of the city into a rural area of Georgia, located in the hardiness zone 8a. We purchased a house here with 27 acres. About 20 of those acres are full of brush, and about 80% of that also has planted long leaf pines that are 2 1/2 years old (3 ft high on average).

We are completely new to all of this. The most we have done before this is grow peppers for my wife, because she couldn't find the ones she wanted in the store (fresh). I want to get started with a garden and a few chickens in the spring, but there is so much to prepare in the meantime. We could really use some pointers.

Not long after we moved in I walked around the cleared portion of the property (near the house) using the "Seek" app to identify any potential vegetable/fruit leftovers from the previous owner. It seems there are a few things they left behind including:
  • red raspberries
  • cutleaf blackberries
  • muscadines
  • kiwis (previous owner said they had a female plant when they bought the property, and they added a male nearby but no there was no fruit yet)
  • soap aloe
  • apple/peach trees (previous owner said these didn't really fruit last season, but didn't say how old they were)
Is there anything I should or need to do for the existing bushes/vines/etc in order for them to do better this coming season?

The backyard is fenced in and encompasses probably 3 acres. We will definitely be looking to expand that out further, but need to clear a lot of the brush first.

There is a garden area started by the previous owner, that is fenced, but theres a ton of weeds now. The area is around 65ft x 65ft. What's the best way to get that ready for spring planting? We thought about getting a couple of pigs to bring in to clear it out, but when they are done we don't really have anything set up elsewhere to keep them fenced.

Our overall goals (over the next few years) are as follows:
  • 1/2 acre to full acre garden full of a variety of vegetables
  • enough layers to provide the three of us with enough eggs to have them every morning
  • meat birds to keep our freezer stocked year round
  • a nice orchard that has started to bear fruit
  • 1/2 acre to full acre pond dug out and stocked with fish (mainly for sport, but also for eating)
Any tips for what we should be focusing on first?
Cloud Sky Plant Natural landscape Sunlight

Ecoregion Organism Rectangle Screenshot Slope
Slope Map Rectangle Parallel Terrestrial plant
Cloud Sky Plant Natural landscape Sunlight
Ecoregion Organism Rectangle Screenshot Slope

Slope Map Rectangle Parallel Terrestrial plant
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I suggest living with it for a year to see where water pools in the spring rainy season, watch where the shade tracks when the trees are leafed out, look for seasonal flowers or plants which you might want to keep, keep an eye out to see what kinds of wildlife share your property, etc.

I know how difficult it is to fight the urge to start planting. But if you place expensive trees/shrubs in places where they struggle you won't gain anything.
I definitely understand why that would be a good thing to do, but the whole reasoning behind us moving to the country was to start providing some of our own food ASAP. We seen the way the world is going with the shortages and countries starting to feed the kids bugs in schools and wanted to get ahead of it. Even if we are only growing 5% of what we consume, it's a start.

While nobody truly knows how things will end up in the next few years or even months (WEF), nothing is more important to me than my family and providing for them as best I can. I am willing to go through placement struggles and a bit of wasted money, if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Danaus29 is giving you good advice to use a year just to see the lay of the land and the path of the sun. A lot of what you can do and how fast you can do it will also depend on your cash budget. But spring comes early in Georgia, so I would take the month of December to mow and blow off the garden area so you can get started.

If you have to buy feed in bags to feed your chickens to get a few eggs, it'll cost you (per egg) much more than store-bought eggs. (Do it anyway, what the heck?) ;) You might look into rabbits, ducks, geese, turkeys. Lots of youtubes for getting started.

The pine trees: Check with your extension agent--see if they're marketable, as planted, or what you have to do to make them into a valuable crop.
Aa far as budget goes, we have a good chunk of cash in the bank to get us started. I also work as a software engineer for my day job (from home), so the bills will get paid with money left over to provide for the homestead.

As far as the chickens go, I would like to have a coop for them obviously, but also provide them a large run where they can help supplement the food costs. One of my biggest issues with that currently is where to put it. The cleared acreage consists of a fenced garden area, a few raised beds, a large outbuilding, a small shed, a pool and a pool house. It seems like I need to clear more brush behind all that to make room for them to run around.

The long leaf pines were planted by the previous owner with the QUIP (spelling?) program. I had them cancel the contract with the state, so that I could clear/move any of them that I wanted. But, I will definitely be leaving the majority of them as-is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Putting in ponds may get The @#$% Feds involved in you life. Try to stay under the radar
Could you explain this more? I was under the impression that ponds aren't really something that involves government unless they are very large or if you are working with them under some type of program where they help with the dig cost for preservation or whatever. I definitely won't be digging it out myself (mainly because I don't know what I am doing, but also because I don't have the equipment). I would be hiring a company to survey the spot and dig it, while making sure everything is done within the rules.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's what I would recommend to get started on a garden, Model 722 - BCS America You could add the front end sickle mower for it to clip the tall grasses between the pine tree rows for biomass mulch and fertility--as well as till the composted mass into the soil. In time, you will be able to just lay the mulch onto the top without tilling. For now, though you'll have to buy some commercial fertilizer and probably lime to counteract the acidity. I hope you can resist the temptation to buy a shiny new Kubota or John Deere with a front end loader and lots of other goodies. IH 350 utility, Oliver 55 0r 550 utility, Allis-Chalmers D-15, with some 3-point attachments would suffice. You'll need capital for tools, fences, outbuildings, too. Get acquainted with Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist.
Thanks for the suggestion. I am going into this with very little knowledge regarding farming/gardening equipment, outside of basic tools. I actually was planning to purchase a Kubota in the near future, once I figured out what size and attachments I needed. Other than the high cost, is there another reason why I shouldn't go that route? I just figured having the ability to do most of the labor myself, rather than hire it out, would recoup much of the cost over the next 5-10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So... in the clay? the sand?

Looks like gorgeous space...

My current place in the sand requires the use of liners when I put in a garden pool... but at my previous place, also 8a Georgia I was able to dig out seep springs for nice pools...

EDIT:
Re clearing brush to install new fencing...
Don't do it!
I run my deer fencing through the thickest tangles of scrub that I have. The deer aren't able to jump the fence through the thicket... Clear everything... makes it easy for them to jump.
Thanks for the tip about the fencing. I hadn't really thought about deer jumping it haha.

As far as the soil goes... based on what the soil map I linked shows, my soil seems to be a good mix in the majority of the acreage. The only part that seems to have poor drainage is the Grady Rembert association area. If the soil map is correct, there should be lots of clay in that spot, which would be perfect for the pond.

There does seem to be a small creek running through the property, diagonally, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Plant an orchard ASAP. Check with neighbors on which varieties do best in your area. Take into account the micro climate in the area you are going to put the orchard. Only plant varieties that you like to eat. It's a bummer to find out 5 years later that you don't like the apples.

Clear the garden of all brush and weeds. Plants won't prosper in anemic soil. You just won't get a very good harvest. Have the soil tested and amend it accordingly. Find a neighbor that raises cows and buy a truck load or two of manure. Clean out a pond and spread the loon poop on the garden. Build a fence to keep the critters out. Bury 3 feet of welded wire fence to stop the gophers and other critters that try to burrow under the fence. Make it high enough to keep deer out. Put on electric fence around the lower part to keep the bears and hogs out. Run a solar fence charger.
We do plan to add onto the existing "orchard" the previous owner left behind. Just trying to figure out the best placement currently. And yes, we will definitely be sticking to the varieties we know we like, at least in the beginning.

What type of fencing would you suggest for around the garden/orchard areas vs. around the property itself? Would definitely like to not spend our whole budget on the fencing, but also not go too cheap to the detriment of wildlife destroying it, or it being ineffective.

Do you have a certain brand/type of electric fencing that you suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You will need to contact your state and county zoning and building regulation departments and the Corps of Engineers.

"The best means for constructing a pond is through the Corps of Engineers agricultural-exemption program. The Corps of Engineers administers the permit process, and USDA-NRCS provides agricultural expertise. The Corps of Engineers and USDA-NRCS follow an agency agreement to review and approve agricultural-exempt ponds. Here you are getting the permit based on your agricultural needs for irrigation. This water justification can be for livestock grazing or crops. There is a detailed formula we won’t go into, but you are allowed to store a volume of water based on how many acres of crops you need to irrigate. We get our engineers involved in the NRCS paperwork. Once NRCS concurs with the water budget, then calculations are submitted along with NRCS paperwork to the regional Corps of Engineers office. The process may take a while, but when done correctly, it will be approved."


Just one of many sites about "pond construction in Georgia". Most of my hits were pdf downloads.

If permits are required, no legitimate construction company will touch it without them.
Thanks for the info! Yeah, I figured I would need planning, approval, and permits. I was just confused why Doc said "Putting in ponds may get The @#$% Feds involved in you life. Try to stay under the radar". It seemed like there might have been something I was missing based on his comment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
From what you originally said, it seems as though you have very little experience in gardening and animal husbandry at this point. If you jump in the deep end of the pond with both feet, you may well be setting yourself up for failure.

I'm sure most of us understand your sense of urgency. Still, it is better to start with a small garden while you stock up with already canned goods from all these or some store like that, to give yourself time to learn.

Gardening is a skill that has to be developed. A few pepper plants, while quite gratifying, are not the same as a full-fledged Garden that will supply all your needs.

But, as @Danaus29 said, you do you.

I'm a bit confused as to why you would ask for advice from seasoned homesteaders, only to tell us that we're wrong.
I respectfully responded to what Danaus said, by stating my reasoning behind moving to the country and wanting to get started ASAP. I wasn't attacking or telling anyone they are wrong. I just made clear my intentions, and I respect the input everyone here has given me, including Danaus and yourself. I apologize if what I said felt like I was saying anyone was wrong.

Like I said, I do understand what you guys are saying about waiting and I even agree you are correct about going slow and planning things out. It is important to see how the property reacts to seasons and weather, do soil tests and amending where needed, install proper fencing, etc.

I just want to get started on as much as I can reasonably do in the first year, and was looking for advice on how to go about it. I do have very very limited gardening and husbandry experience, but I am willing to learn. I am also willing to fail and try again for a better outcome in the next season. I will be supplementing heavily with canned/frozen foods in the meantime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Maybe I missed it.. What part of Georgia are you in? I'm also in Georgia, North Georgia not far from Hart County.

Congrats on the property and good luck! I'm new to this as well and also in IT. I've not moved onto my property yet.
An hour south of Augusta, in Burke County.

Did you just recently acquire the property, or are you developing it a bit before you move onto it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Sorry if I missed it when I skimmed through, but what equipment do you have to work the garden with?
As of today, not much. Here's a list of "outdoor" tools that I have:
  • shovel
  • leaf rake (plastic)
  • landscape rake (aluminum)
  • hoe
  • lopper
  • pruner
  • ryobi electric weedeater
  • ryobi electric edger
  • ryobi electric mower (self-propelled)
I also have a bunch of other hand tools for building out fencing, beds, etc. I don't yet have much garden-specific equipment, but I will be purchasing whatever I need as I need it. I was planning on buying a Kubota tractor within the next month or so, but with some of the feedback here I may hold off on that and go with the cheaper, more manual, route. Not sure yet on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Everyone's opinion will be different, but here is mine, without knowing your budget. I do agree with others to grow into it over time. What I am going to list is my priorities and budget, so it may not apply if you are a doctor or a lawyer. Going to be a long post.

I would put the pond on the backburner. Built one with my father in Georgia as a teen. We did a lot of the work ourselves and rebuilt one he had in the 30's, but it was a still a lot of work and extra upkeep. Definitely worth doing, but not my main priority.

Garden: If nothing else for now, cut it and use tarp or plastic to keep weeds down between now and spring. Don't rush into a tractor. You have some time and should be able to find somebody to plow it for you in the spring in your area, if you haven't found a good deal on one by then. Spend the next month researching growing your own plants from seed and get ready for that (by February) and knowing what you will direct seed. Initially, go with the basics that will produce easily and well. Purple hull peas, okra, yellow squash, zucchini, cucumbers, peppers/maters, etc. Plant Trucker's Favorite corn if you have room. If you pay somebody to initially plow, or do it yourself, get a wheel hoe for cultivation. Hoss Tools sells them in Georgia. The double wheel hoe with the sweeps attachment is all I use for my garden now. I have a tiller sitting in the barn I should sell, and a cultivator for the tractor that I haven't used recently. I can make a pass about once a week with the wheel hoe as fast as I can walk and it keeps the middles in good shape.

If you don't get a tractor, have someone clear some area to get you at least an acre to work with. Plant crimson clover in the winter for what area you are not growing food on. Plant iron and clay peas, buckwheat and sun hemp on bare spots during the summer. Will help keep weeds down, prevent erosion and improve soil, if plowed in at the right time. Find a tree service in the area to drop off wood chips. It will take some time to rot, but start soon to have it to add to your soil in a couple of years. Part of my garden now was a pile of rotting limbs, fence posts, etc. It is amazing how much better it does than dirt on either side. Start compost bins to add your kitchen scraps, leaves, and chicken manure along with any shavings you clean out of your chicken house.

Figure out how to keep something growing all the time you can eat. It is not hard in GA.

Put an electric fence around your garden spot. The interwebs have too much info on what you need to do this. It ain't hard. I have three strands that work fine and have to tighten or repair a section every couple of months. Probably when a critter passes through that hasn't tried it yet. The repair is about 5 mins and no extra cost yet, since I just fix whatever is stretched (aluminum wire) or rarely have to reattach something broken.

Canning/preserving: You or/and your wife learn how to can. Purple hull peas are a staple at our house. I pick them and she shells and cans them. I have a Camp Chef propane stove that she uses with a Presto pressure cooker/canner. She cans some pears and other stuff, but peas and blue lake beans are the bulk of the canning. We have small chest freezer and picked up a stand-up freezer at an estate sale. I also have a backup fridge/freezer in a barn that I think was $100.00 used and we use it to store what is picked until we have time to process it. She handles the canning and I freeze squash, okra and corn. We are beginners at fermenting and have done pickles and sauerkraut with good results. I also have a dehydrator and we have used it for cayenne peppers and other stuff. Also made some onion powder.

Fruit trees: They are nice to have, but unless you are selling/trading them or have a fruit fetish they are way, way down the list from my garden. Add a few at a time to right-size your needs. We inherited three large pears from the previous owner and could supply half the county. I have some young apple and blueberry. To my surprise, deer are leaving the blueberries alone, but I had to put some rusty 2X4 fence (also inherited from previous owners) around the apples to keep bucks from rubbing them. Fig trees would be good for preserves. l'm still working to get some established, since it was very dry here the past two summers. I took some cuttings from an old plum in the summer and will plant them in the spring. We have four pecan trees around the house. This year they produced more than my wife has been able to keep shelled. We did not plant any peach trees. IMO they take a lot of maintenance and spraying.

Chickens: For eggs, we have six RI red and barred rock that were a year old in Oct. I sectioned off a part of an old barn and added roosts and nest boxes. It has a doorway that leads to about a 12X18' area I closed in with 2X4 wire (already had it) and covered with chicken wire and a tin roof on top. We took down an old hogwire fence and used sections to attach to the bottom of the fence to prevent critters from digging. We get six eggs a day most of the year and probably four a day right now with the shorter days. I have not grown any just for meat recently, but have years ago. I figure I have plenty of room in the same enclosure to add some, if needed.

Rabbits: I added a few just for meat security and also to convert some garden matter into fertilizer. My wife was not big on the idea, but runs to go see them every day when she gets home and chastises me if she doesn't think I'm paying them enough attention.

This is about where we are now. We keep enough growing to eat so as to not get into the preserved stuff too much and it is a challenge to find out how to use it all. Supplementing chicken and rabbit feed with scraps and any extra green stuff has saved us a lot. We are older and kids are grown. We may add cattle, but I'm still weighing the ROI for the fence. We border a state highway, so the odds something could get out and on a rod bothers me, plus time goes by quick and we all get old and feeble at some point.
First off, thank you for the very detailed post. That had to have taken some time to write up.

Secondly, about the budget. I am a software engineer, making six figures. We are definitely not rich by any means, but we are pretty comfortable with being able to support the homestead however we need.

Thirdly, about the pond. Agreed. The pond is something I definitely want, but it is not a priority right now. I might work on that year two or three.

Fourthly, about the garden. I was actually out in the garden area this morning with the wife clearing out larger brush. What is the best way to cut the area enough to put down the tarps? Should I just mow over it? Also, I have been researching what to plant and how for the last 3-4 months while the property search and mortgage process was pending. I have spreadsheets and tons of bookmarked videos already and continue to find more info every day.

Fifthly, about the composting. We do plan to do our own composting, but, still trying to figure out where to keep it on the property and what type of bins to use. Recommendations for that would be great.

Sixthly, about the fencing. The garden area has an existing fence that is like 95% up and working. But, that fencing is not going to keep out small animals at all, and it needs reinforcement. I definitely like the idea of electric fencing, and that will be the finishing touch after I make it more rodent proof. I have watched so many videos about this in the past week. It seems like no matter what you do, if a small animal wants in they find a way lol...

Seventhly, about the canning/preserving. We do plan to do both, but have no prior experience with it. So, it will be a learning experience for sure. I am most excited about preserves, and on that topic, we have a large fig tree that bares way more fig than we could process (according to the previous owner).

Eighthly, about the fruit trees. We have some existing apple, peach, and kiwi trees (all of which apparently didn't do well last season). We also have raspberries, blackberries, and muscadines. I am a big fan of fruit and in particular peaches, strawberries, and bananas. I get peach trees are a pain to care for, but strawberries seem to be much easier to manage. I know nothing about banana trees, but would love to have those as well.

Ninthly, about the chickens. Behind the garden, chickens are next in line on the priority list. Just not sure what breed to go with. I have a two year old boy that will inevitably find his way into the coop many times, so I need to go with a more docile breed. I was looking at Astralorps, but open to suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The brush in the garden needs to be removed before you put a tarp over the soil. When your growing season starts the brush will push through a tightly laid tarp and will displace a loose one. After removing the brush, mowing the area before laying down tarps is sufficient.

Your best place to site a compost pile is right in the garden. I suggest you get a book titled Compost This Book. It covers all kinds of compost piles, methods and containment for compost piles. You can get as fancy as a bin or as laid back as just a pile. Some people dig compost pits and move to another spot when one gets filled.

You should get the sturdiest fencing you can find. Chicken wire, rabbit fence, welded wire and similar cheap materials don't last long. I was given a few rolls of chain link fence and have that around my gardens. I didn't get it stretched tight enough so it sags in places and one garden needs to be completely refenced, but it works pretty well to define the garden area. Critters will find a way in regardless of what you use. Raccoons, squirrel and possums climb. Groundhogs, armadillos and skunk will dig under. Chipmunks and baby rabbits just slip through. About the only thing the fence keeps out is grown rabbits and deer. It keeps deer out of only the small gardens.

If your temperature drops below freezing you will not be able to grow Cavendish bananas.

Thank you for the feedback. Glad to hear mowing after brush removal is good enough. I'm guessing the thicker the tarps the better?

I will look into that book. Composting is something I haven't really looked into much as of yet.

I was planning to reinforce the existing fencing with chicken wire along the bottom 18 inches or so (with like 6 inches buried to help with the diggers), and additional lines of barbed wire above the existing; along with strands of electric. Do you think that would be sufficient enough for now? Or should I go through the pain of replacing it all with chain link?

That's unfortunate about the bananas. I know the temperatures in my area are pretty mild in the winter, but from looking at the history it does drop below freezing at times. January is on average the coldest month with an average low of 35F. So it's not like it is below freezing a majority of the time, but how often would the freezing temps need to happen to kill the trees?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
You can look into fava beans, Crimson clover, and whatever legumes are good for southern areas to develop a rotational system, since you have plenty of room for reserve, or active fallowing plots to do this. I think you could also grow Irish potatoes if you start early enough. When is your last expected frost date?

As for the brush, cutting, Roundupping it, etc, might get rid of the top growth, but underground, expect to find a network of interlaced roots to contend with, unless you use a root rake to scrape them out. Yes, they will rot, but it takes time, and you will hang up a tiller or plow quite often. Sometimes, a flail mower can quickly dispense with the top growth, though.

From the Soil Survey description of your soil profile, you might be able to drive a sand point well to hit ground (surface) water within a depth shallow enough that will allow you to draw water for irrigation if you have droughty times during the summer. Driven Sand Point Well Advantages and Disadvantages (offgridnerd.com)

geo
Looking online, it seems to be the average last frost for my location is around mid March.

As for the brush, my wife and I have spent some time in there pulling up brush, roots and all, as much as we can. Obviously, we won't get it all, but it seems like the soil isn't very compacted, making it fairly easy to get much of the roots as well. That is something I am not used to. Where we used to live, the soil was super compacted and hard to dig because it was primarily clay. It's a nice change for sure. If I mow over the area (after removing as much brush as we can), I would assume we don't bag the clippings and leave them on the top when we put the tarps over it?

The well idea is a nice suggestion, and I will look into that. I was actually planning on setting up a rainwater catching system to use for irrigation, but it may not be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Congratulation Dan,
A few things. A feline or 2 can go a long way to deal with rodent/lizard problems. A yapper will take care of small animals, a Dane mix will keep deer away. A Spaniel will take care of all kinds of animals.
I presume you have a 4wd and a trailer by now, so put an ad on Marketplace that you will remove any old non-working hot tubs. They are the greatest thing for victory gardens since dirt. Fill with rocks, and hugelkultur fill. A nice layer of garden soil and you have a nice elevated bed that is easy to take care of, pretty weed free, difficult for pests to get in etc etc etc. One hot tub should provide a years worth of tomatos, peppers, summer squashes, peas, and some carrots. As an aside, you can put an old bathtub next to it for your tot to garden.
I have three cats and one golden retriever. The cats have been indoors only since I got them, and the dog is outside while we are, or if she needs to do her business. I like the idea of letting the cats come and go outside for taking care of rodents, but I'm worried they will end up running off somewhere or getting attacked by wildlife. Two of the cats are actually one of the only things I have left from my mom that passed away last year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Racoons and groundhogs are very territorial. Racoons claim rights to about 35--40 acres, while hogs (ground) don't stray much from their major food source--your garden. If you can eliminate the main inhabitant early, it will be the next season before another one comes along to claim it as his--usually-a dominant male groundhog, and hers for the other furry creature, along with her litter of five to six little eater/destroyers. For me, a little youth Marlin Papoose with a red dot sight, loaded with CCI .22LR MiniMags is just the ticket. (and a cage trap baited with marshmellows) It's lightweight, breaks down and fits into a briefcase to meet Michigan transport laws. Even though there is a hunting season for rabbits and racoons, you can shoot them on your property as vermin. I always toss a couple of beer cans at the far edge of the garden, just to say, "Honestly. officer, I was just target practicing and that critter came between the bullet and target just as I shot." :)

But rifles are an addiction for me. I thought 22 was the number of rifles I should buy just to get a good one. ;)

If I had snakes, I would get the Springfield survival gun, an over under .22/410 combination--I need an excuse, maybe. For big hogs.... maybe a .410 slug? You're on your own.

geo
Guns are something I have no experience with. But, I plan to get a few after learning how to use them (gun range, classes, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Looks like sand to me also. Unfortunately, sand is very difficult to garden. Rain and nutrients just go straight through it. If you can find some red clay on the place... I'd probably garden there...

I like to grow food in the winter...
stuff like rutabaga, turnip, carrot, kale,snow peas and fava beans.

While the peas and beans don't set pods during the frosty weather... they usually get large enough to produce a decent harvest in the spring.

Personally, rather than worrying about mowing and tarping... I would try to locate a source of horse poop... and a source of free woodchips.
Most stables will allow us to back our pickup truck to the horse poop pile and load it... if we ask nice.
Most tree surgeons have a chipper, and will deliver to us if they are working nearby.
When I was first out here in the sand... I brought out pickup loads of manure right into the future garden and emptied the truck.
I linked a soil map of my property in the initial post. The location of the existing garden is in the "Tifton loamy sand" area. I read up on that type of soil type, and it sounds like it would be great for certain vegetables, but not all. I think I may actually be using raised beds for now anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I wouldn' t want to be required to put that much water on those raised beds on top of sand...
I tried "lowered beds" in the sand once in my attempts to reduce the amount of water required...
Seemed like a good idea... but didn't work out at my house.

As danielkleach gets experience with our dry periods, I trust that my warnings against raised beds on top of fast draining sand will make more sense.

Ditto regarding plant what ya'll eat... But... at the same time... It's hard to go wrong with a nice winter cover crop of turnips / rutabagas... What don't get ate... gets turned under in the spring as green manure.
I am going to skip the raised beds, per y'alls advice. I will amend the dirt, after clearing out the weeds. I will also be setting up irrigation lines as well. The plan is to set up a rainwater harvesting system to feed it, rather than run them off of the well, but we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Your sandy soil looks nice and clean but it definitely does need to have LOTS of composted organic material mixed into it including very well rotted horse manure - that stuff is worth its weight in gold. So after you get rid of the existing weeds and roots in the garden area I'd suggest you bring in a pickup load and mix it in to get your soil ready before you start planting anything in there. Try to find your starter compost & horse manure from somebody local. Avoid woody compost unless the woody bits are well rotted and crumbly.

I'm also recommending that when you start making your own compost that you do not make it in bins (that is for city folks living on small lots) but make compost piles that are started in direct contact with the earth. It's a lot healthier for the compost that way and a bonus is that being in contact with the earth means that it will attract earthworms to the piles and earthworms are worth their weight in gold too.

With regard to the muscadine grape vines you identified I'm curious about if they had been planted and cultivated and controlled by previous owner(s) or if they are just growing wild all willy-nilly in various places around the property.
I will definitely be amending the soil after I get the weeds taken care of. I will also be starting a compost pile very soon, just trying to decide where to put it. There is currently only one open spot just outside of the garden to place it, but that area already has a campfire hangout setup.

The muscadines seem to be contained in one dedicated area away from everything else, and away from the garden. They have it growing up a "closeline" looking setup, with nothing else close enough to get latched onto. I will see if I can get a photo before daylight is gone, but sunset is already here lol.

Here is an updated photo of the garden area after I did a bit more work on it today. The previous owners seemed to have had a burn area in the center of it. There are lots of burnt wood pieces in there. There's still plenty of work to do clearing it out, but it's getting there.

Plant Sky Natural landscape Branch Land lot
 
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