Jury rigged tools when you don't have the right one

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by moopups, Jun 5, 2005.

  1. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    Hopefully you all can add to this as we go along. One of the handiest things I have found is useing a cotter pin with the ends equalized as a tire valve stem tool, simple put a nail through the loop and spin away.

    Item 2 is broken post hole diggers replacement handles, a pair can be fashioned with a single length of old style tv antenna shaft, its the right size and thickness and if you put a pair of 3/4 inch pipe slugs about 12 inches long at the bottom they are near unbreakable.

    A 'C' clamp makes an exhaust flange couple with the manafold quite nicely in the absense of the propper bolts.

    Take your exstension cords plugs and insert a blade to seperate the folded over insert portion to make the plug stay in a loose socket.

    An old style Chrysler auto air condidioning pump makes a grand air compressor pump.

    When streaching barbed wire do not 'seat' the staples anywhere but the ends, this allows the wire to exspand and contract which prevents breakage.

    Nails with the points dulled crush through rather than split dry or hard wood.

    There are thousands of tips, tool doubleing devices, ideas that are common knowledge to you that others have not thought of before. If the other mods agree we can make this a sticky adding info as it comes in from your sources, feel free to add useful tips or tool replacements here.

    Also please note that we have a links library next to the archives with major info sites reserved for your use.
     
  2. Ozarks_1

    Ozarks_1 Well-Known Member

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    Ever try keeping the four brushes in place when reassembling a starter?
    Not an easy job, but I found an old plastic pill bottle of just the right size and cut the bottom out. The bottle holds the brushes in place until you're ready to remove it.
     

  3. Blu3duk

    Blu3duk Well-Known Member

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    this sounds like a good sticky post...... to which i would add the following recipe

    mix bacon grease with just a little bit of diesel to get a runny paste to use when drilling metal to save drill bits, it seems to stay on the bit itself and as the bit gets hot, the pig grease goes right to the heat..... use a small paintbrush to put it on with....not a tool, but better than buying spendy brand name oils.

    William
     
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  4. Ross

    Ross Moderator Staff Member Supporter

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    So lets make it a stickie!
    Don't throw out broken C clamps, often they can be tack welded in place to hold a new part that has to be held firm in an awkward position.

    Cheap vice grips are also great for home made welding clamps, add on the weird jaw you need and clamp the parts to be joined. Bet new vice grips types start out that way!!

    Odd heavy chunks of steel end up beside teh hydraulic press to make even platforms for bearing extraction etc.

    We make our own drill powered paint mixer rods out of scrap, and have feshoined many weird holder, drivers, and screw etractors from broken tools.

    Should be an interestign thread!
     
  5. farminghandyman

    farminghandyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Jury rigged tools when you don't have the right one
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    I thought that was when you were using a pipe wrench with a pipe on the handle, with a crow bar in the pipe for more leverage while standing on top of 6' step ladder, with a disclamer riding at the bottom that says
    "this a profesional Fool do not try this at home,"

    there are many occasions that one doesnt have the correct tool and may have to create one from the stuff at hand,
    but I do caution do it safely, if you need to spend some money to get the correct thing then do so if possible.

    may times using a jury rigged tool is dangerous and will distroy the equiptment being worked on.

    Kinda like using a cutting torch for a wrench, yes you can get the bolt off but for some reason you have a very hard time puttng it back on,

    I have modified , made and built tools by the truck load over the years, most when it was said and done have been replaced with purchused units, (mostly because the right things were not used to build them),

    dont use old water tanks for air compressors, they were never designed to handle the pressures of compressed air and many times are thiner stock, if you do use a relief vale.

    don't cut corners and jsut get buy, (my son in law, wired up his shop, did not have heavy enough wire and tryed two number 12 romexes for coming in to the main breaker box, thankfully there was a main breaker at the pole),

    there is emergency jury rigging,
    and there is cheap jury riging
    and there is stupid jury rigging,

    and by the way is it jury rigged or jerry rigged?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-jur1.htm
    JURY RIGGED
    [Q] From Robert Williams: “I’d seen the phrase jerry rigged and assumed it was related to WWII and the efforts of German soldiers to keep things running by patching things together. However I’ve also seen it spelled jury rigged. Where does this expression come from?”
    [A] It’s much older than World War Two. In the form jury rigged it’s from the days of sailing ships and dates from the early 1600s, if not earlier. It refers to a mast which is makeshift or a temporary contrivance, perhaps because the original was lost or damaged in a storm. Nobody knows for sure where it comes from. It has been suggested that it’s a shortening of “injury-rigged”, though that sounds to me like something invented well after the event. Another suggestion often made is that it comes from the old French ajurie, “aid, assistance”.
    We also have the term jerry-built, for a house that’s been thrown up using unsatisfactory materials; this dates from the middle of the nineteenth century and is sometimes said to derive from the name of a Liverpool firm of builders (one with a reputation that has travelled, obviously) or possibly a contraction of Jericho (whose walls fell down, you will remember, at the blast of a trumpet). Neither has been substantiated, I’m sorry to say.
    It’s possible that the confusion between jerry and jury is much older than we think and that jerry in jerry-built is actually a corruption of jury, in the modified sense of “inadequate” rather than “temporary”.
    And, of course, Jerry has yet another meaning, the one you referred to in your question, an informal version of German, hence jerrycan. These three terms have got thoroughly mixed up in people’s minds, to the extent that we may never be able to disentangle them again.
     
  6. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    adjustable wrench makes a good micrometer also a hammer (never use it as a wrench,will slip off and bust your knuckles!!) duct tape, have seen this used to seal every thing from lay flats to mail boxes, apply liberaly.
    baler twine/electric fence wire holds gates up ,broke pieces together and with a stick can double as a pipe wrench.

    we always called it jerry rigged after a good friend of ours that can combine/machine the most broken up stuff and get you going! his son has this talent to though of late has slipped over to the dark side (auto mechanic)

    good sticky subject!
     
  7. Northman

    Northman Well-Known Member

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    I generally don't care for making tools unless one doesn't exist or is not available to the general public. I have a tool buying addiction I spend a few grand a year on tools.

    BUT, I do have some do-it yourself tips.

    When bleeding brakes you don't need 2 people to do this if you make the repair and refill , pump the brabes several times really hard then open the bleeder and wait. usually within a minute or two the fluid will run and begin to remove the air with it. however if it doesn't close the bleeder almost all the way and pump a few more times then let them gravity bleed until no more air gurgles out of the bleeder.


    If you get a leak in your radiator ground black pepper will seal smaller leaks and a couple egg whites will seal medium sized leaks.

    when replacing a thermostat in a vehicle opening the t-stat and putting a small piece of uncooked spagetti in to hold it open until you can fully fill the cooling system. this helps reduce the "burp" required to get all the air out of the system.

    When in tank fuel pump failure is suspected in a vehicle alot of the time you can thump the tank with a rubber mallet to bring it temporarily back to life.

    When taking measurements while woodworking instead of writting the measurements on a scrap piece of wood (which always is misplaced befor measuring a piece of wood to be cut) write it on the backside of the measuring tape this way it is always where you need it.
     
  8. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    When ripping lumber lengthwise, finding the center is as simple as placeing the tape measure diagionaly across the wood to an even number (4, 6, 8 ect) then mark the half way number - it is automatically the center of the piece of wood.

    Creating a square cornor when laying out a buildings string lines is easy useing the 3,4,5 or 6, 8, 10 method, or any ratio equalling the same numbers. A square cornor measured 4 feet in one direction, 90 degrees away it measures 3 foot, the distance between the two marks is 5 foot when the cornor is squared.

    Concrete has a compaction factor, meaning that if you have exactly a 10 cubic feet pour it will take about 11.5 cubic feet to achieve haveing enough concrete to fill the pour. The reason is the consumed air space between the sand when it is dry. Same with soil fill, its compaction factor is 25% additional needed after it is packed down.

    Doubleing a pipes diameter allows 4 times the flow of the original size.
     
  9. BobK

    BobK Well-Known Member

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    easy way to square a layout. Set two parrallel lines and anchor two corners on one line. Swing a arch from one corner and mark on the adjacent line...swing the same length arc from the other corner and mark this intercept. Measure between marks to determine the center then measure out to set your corners...eprfect everytime!
     
  10. 2story

    2story Well-Known Member

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    1. rent expensive tools, its worth it
    2. Rental stores can be a good place to look for used tools to buy.
    3. http://www.alldatadiy.com/ is worth the money.
    4. when working with pvc pipe, tape the cement and primer together with duct tape, it is less likely to spill.
    5.If you fix your own stuff spend money on tools you NEED.
    6.balloons are handy tools
    7. buy a pen-type voltage detector they are cheap, and are great for trouble shooting
    8. Sometimes it is cheaper to pay a pro.
     
  11. mohillbilly

    mohillbilly Well-Known Member

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    I have restored a few antique stationary engines, some of them with seized pistons. I read about this technique years ago, but sont remember where.

    This is a last chance method, and has worked after soaking the piston in everything from kerosene to cokeacola.

    After the head is pulled, pack the seized piston/cylinder with grease. reinstall the head ( with gasket). Take an old spark plug that fits the head, knock out the porcelain, and braze, solder, weld a grease zerk fitting in the end of it.

    Install the modified plug and hook up your grease gun and start pumping! Most grease guns will easily do 500- 1000 psi of pressure, and that is enough to force the siezed piston loose!
     
  12. desdawg

    desdawg Well-Known Member

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    When changing sprockets or pulling the flywheel to get to the ignition parts on a chainsaw there is a special nylon tool available to stop the engine from turning over. Remove the spark plug and insert the tool into the cylinder through the plug hole to stop the piston from moving without causing any damage. If you don't have this tool a piece of recoil starter rope will serve the same purpose.
     
  13. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    Ya know, this may be a northern versus southern thing, but we call this type of stuff as being "jerry rigged," not "jury rigged,"
     
  14. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    If you have hard service machinery that tend to have nuts loosen often that problem can be cured by useing what is known as a 'prick peen'. After tightening up the nut to its final placement take a fine point punch and put a dimple into the first full width exposed thread riser, this will not allow the nut to loosen but it can be overridden with a wrench if further need to relocate is needed. The dimple should be so close that it contacts the nut.
     
  15. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    to seat the bead on a tube less tire , remove weight from tire soap rim and tire .then take the valve stem out ,take air line with quick coupler (ours are m style not sure about a or s)and apply the end to the stem. may need to put a rachet strap around the tread of the tire to spread the sidewall. also works good to fastfill tubed tires though becareful not to over fill and blow tire off the bead.
     
  16. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    Large tires can be a mess to get to 'take the bead', especually when new. Creating a controled explosion is one method to get them to seat; this is done with about a 1 &1/2 second spray of starter fluid into the tire after it is placed on the rim. Then fire is intruduced via a long handled flammable item such as a straw with its end lit. At all times keep your fingers away from the area where the tire will seat. The explosion will be small but quick and have enought force to spread the tire to the rim. It will be best to have someone whom has done this before show you how to do this safely.
     
  17. posifour11

    posifour11 Well-Known Member

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    another way to bleed brakes by yourself is to find a small hose like vacuum line that will fit on the bleeder valve. place one end on the valve (after it has been loosened) and the other in a bottle of brake fluid. pump the brakes until firm. i just learned this a year or so ago and was amazed.
     
  18. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

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    Cool tip and pretty much an extrapolation of the old grease trick to remove a stubborn pilot bearing/bushing in end of a crankshaft. Just fill cavity behind bearing/bushing with grease, then find a metal or hardwood rod same diameter as hole. I have been known to use ductape or electrical tape to increase diameter of rod as needed for good fit. Dont have to be anal about everything being perfect. Then sharply hit the exposed end of the rod. A stuck bearing/bushing totally unresponsive to even a slide hammer will just ease itself out. Quite amazing to see. Hydraulic pressure can be a great tool.

    I am wondering about greasegun trick on a multi cylinder engine short of disconnecting connecting rods and removing crank. Do you use greasegun on pistons in firing order? Personally I have had good luck pouring ATF in stuck cylinders and letting things soak, but doesnt always work. Sometimes have to remove head and place end of 2x4 on top of piston and persuade it with a large hammer. The grease trick would be preferable though. Less chance of damaging anything.
     
  19. mohillbilly

    mohillbilly Well-Known Member

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    Just a thought on this here, never done it on a multi cylinder engine. If it was me, I would work the cylinder that is closet to a 90 degree angle from the vertical of the piston stroke. this would gice you the greatest force on the entire "assembly"

    And if you r realy motivated pack all the cylinders with grease and put the head back on. then work each cylinder a little at atime up and down. But stay away fromthe plug holes that are open whenyou do this, I have seen a piston jump back2 inches in an instant under hydraulic pressure. I am sure the grease in the other cylinders will spurt out like a bullet !!!!
     
  20. John Hill

    John Hill Grand Master

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    If you need to cut the head off a bolt without damaging what it is attached to, or maybe there is no room to get the hacksaw in and you dont want to use gas cutting, an easy trick is to use a drill. Choose a drill size a little under the diameter of the bolt and drill into the head, straight in the very centre of the bolt head, drill down about the thickness of the head then apply you spanner (sorry 'wrench' :) ). The head will tear off easy and the parts will be undamaged. Also useful where the nut is out of reach on the other side or otherwise cant be held for unscrewing.