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Discussion Starter #1
I just put a timming belt in the CRX, And it still wont start every time. You turn the key on and you don't hear the fuel pump come on. so it wont start, after a lot of clicking, It will catch and you hear the fuel pump come on and then you can start the car. When the pump comes on you know that the computer has kicked in. I have replaced the computer from another CRX I have in the yard that I know is good. I have replaced the distributer with one I know is good. I know I have a vaccum leak, and that is maybe why the idel surges. My master cylender is not hooked up yet. I need help, and a forum for CRX people also. Thanks All
 

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Go sit in the vehicle when its silent outside, turn the key and listen for a clicking noise. This will help you locate the impact safety switch. Modern vehicles have a set up that shuts off the electric fuel pump in case of an impact.

You don't want fuel flowing into an impact area, the wires connections are often scorched via long usage. After you find the switch, look for black or burnt marks in the plastic coverings. Replace any that have discoloration.

Some times its a fuse, fuses do not always burn out where it is visible, bench test each fuse in the applied area.
 

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There's no impact switch on the CRX. That's a Ford gimic.

You've got two likely areas to check. The ignition switch and the fuel pump relay.

The ignition switches do go bad on this car. The typical symptoms are failure to engage the starter motor though. Much like a bad starter relay. The switch contacts get dirty and fail to make electrical connection. You generally do not get a cranking engine that fails to start.

The fuel pump relay is much more likely imo. The classic symptoms of this are failure to start, but cranks over fine, with good spark. The relay gets its signal from the ignition. You will usually hear the relay click closed, but no response from the fuel pump. If you jumper wire the relay, you then hear the fuel pump spinning.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I belive it is the main relay, I have a Haynes book, but I can not find the main relay. Does anybody where it is located.
 

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Found the relay thanks, that fixed the starting troble, But the alternator was froze up. I took it off and I have an alternator that want hold a charge, maybe between the two I can get one to run. Maybe take the brushes out of the frozen one and put them into the non charging one.
 

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agmantoo
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Sue, are you saying the alternator will not charge or that the battery will not hold a charge with the alternator that will rotate?
 

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agmantoo
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Sue, most alternators that I rebuild have the diodes blown and the alternators with the builtin regulators have the regulators defective also. I typically go to a shop that rebuilds alternators and buy the components and replace them myself. I look at the brushes before I buy the components and only rarely are the brushes worn but in high mileage vehicles I do occasionally have to replace the brushes. The brushes are held retracted by placing a toothpick or a straightened paper clip through a small hole in the brush holder in order to reassemble. Cost to rebuild is around $24 to $30. Dismantle your alternator and try to check the components, you have nothing to lose.
 
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