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Discussion starter · #1,001 ·
I vote for the stainless wire. We have a friend that replaced the pickets in their deck railing with stainless wire. It is nearly invisible and makes the deck feel more a part of the outdoors. We really like it and have decided that is what we will do with our deck. I'd be willing to bet that with the size of your posts and the hardware you used to fasten them you won't need a top rail for strength and stability. Combine that with stainless wire and you will have a great view!

He bought 3/16" stainless wire rope in 100' rolls on MSC's website. I think he said it was a little over a dollar a foot, and he has over 1000 feet of it in his deck. So yeah, it is pricey, but he figures that he'll never have to replace it, unlike the pickets in his rail that were shrinking away from the nails and getting loose.

I saw another deck where they used woven wire fencing, and yet another where they used cattle panels. Don't know if you inspector would like that though. Cattle panels wouldn't be bad looking, don't know if I'd care for the woven wire.

Glass would be a really expensive, although beautiful, option. It would have to be 8mm or 10mm thick glass, tempered, with beveled and polished edges. I used to work in the glass manufacturing and fabricating industry, and I'm here to tell you, that type of glass is very pricey! Most fabrication shops only deal with installers and contractors and don't sell to the general public.
I was googlin last night, and it seems wire prices have come down, especially the hardware prices. I did a wire railing long ago, but owner paid for wire (they being Americans, just took a trip down south to source it).
I see I never took an after wire install pic...just the railing...lol.

Public space Wood Roof Stairs House

Property House Home Cottage Log cabin


I've done a lot of glass railings. We have to use 4mm (min) tempered if we frame it in (no exposed edges). If we have exposed edges, 8mm tempered (min - usually thicker). Never dealt with the really thick glass, the stuff you talk about, as I never ran into someone with deep pockets or should I say, those willing to part with it...lol.

An example;

Handrail Deck Hardwood Wood House



My local glass retailer has been pretty good about prices. Around $50 for standard size 4mm tempered (32" x 72"). Custom sizes almost double. The hassle is framing it in. I'd use 1/2"-3/4" roundover trim, on both sides, on all edges. Buying all that trim adds up. Just ball-parking it, but I'd need about 212 ft of trim. At around a $1/ft = $250.

I like a top rail, because I like to lean on something as I peer over the edge and to set my drink on. I'll stick on a sub-rail (2x4 right under top rail, but between posts) to keep posts from migrating towards each other, when using wire.

BTW - I use 5/8" bolts (not lags) and true 4"x4" posts for every railing, I've ever done (except for the odd cedar post railing). I get little railing flex with that setup. For glass trim, 16g SS brads for trim and Lexel clear window caulk (use lots). You get no glass rattle in windstorms. I've seen folks router notches in posts and railing to accommodate glass, but over time, the railing dries out, and you're left with a rattle.
 
Discussion starter · #1,004 ·
Roof

Finally getting the roof on...even though the 'Titanium' underlay kept me dry for a year and half, something about having metal over-top one's head (reminds me, I ran out of tinfoil). I was hoping the order would be bundled into two units, but they created a monster cage, which nixed my idea of having a bundle craned up to second floor roof.

Metal roofing on a low slope shed roof is about as easy as one can get. Still, I had to put down some drip cap (lower edge), which made me a tad nervous. Roofing sucks the life out of me, as I am always tense on a roof, no matter how safe it is. Hopefully, I'll finish before the hot weather comes.

Ideally, it would have been nice to have the copper drip cap flashing below underlay, but that is life (well, I do have drip cap flashing below underlay, just not the copper flashing - just some cheap stuff).
This is a new supplier, as my go-to guy closed up shop. Looking good so far. BTW - 24g Copper Penny (stout with a top shelf finish).

Roof Lumber Wood Hardwood Tree

Roof Roofer Wood Slope Composite material
 
Discussion starter · #1,005 ·
Continuing on with roof...got the 2nd floor roof done. It was my Achilles. Even though it is a low slope roof, it disturbs me (feels like I am standing on a 22ft high pedestal). Had to wear gym runners to avoid sliding.

Roof Wood Line Wood stain Outdoor structure

You'll notice there is no exposed screws, except on trim (they call it Prolok 12" concealed fastener system). Although, this is taking me forever to put up, my hope is, I'll never have to climb up on it, ever again.

Roof Wood stain Wood Hardwood Lumber


The above pic is showing the 'Profile Ridge Vent' (black mesh stuff tucked under ridge cap). It stops rain from splashing up under the ridge cap. Supposed to be bug/flame resistant, yet allows airflow (useful for gabled roofs). Miami-Dade county approved, so it must be ok. I read a lot of technical literature on building components, and it seems to me that a selling point is if Miami-Dade county approved it (i.e. withstand hurricane force winds).

The profile ridge vent has notches cut into it every foot so it rides over metal roof ridges without pushing up ridge cap too much. Was lucky I found this stuff...figured I would be held up having it shipped from the city. My local lumber store had special ordered a stack of it, but the buyer bailed.

I used to get metal roofs from a different source, and the guy there would bend over the bottom edge of ridge cap. I would then notch the metal so the ridge cap seated down.
See example below:

Roof Wood Wood stain Deck Daylighting

It was tedious work notching ridge cap, but you can see that no rain will sneak under ridge cap (not suitable for gabled roofs where you need ventilation).

While I am on a roll blabbing about roofs, I took a pic of this one because the workmanship is sublime. They rolled over the bottom edge of roof, over the drip cap, so there will never be ice damming under roof. You can also see they closed off the ridges at bottom, so bugs nor water can get up there. I was debating doing that, but probably won't because I'll just mess up my roof...lol. My tin work is suspect.

Roof Building House Window Daylighting
 
Discussion starter · #1,007 ·
Too many days on the roof messed me up. Started to get vertigo walking down my house stairs. A couple days removed from roof work, and I seem to be back to normal. Spent a rather leisurely day putting up exterior insulation (Roxul Comfortboard 80 - 2" thick - spun slag and basalt like an SOS pad, but denser). All wood frame sections of bunker get exterior insulation, so as to roughly match the ICF portion, in terms of R value.
I framed up the wood sections (inset them 2") so the Comfortboard would be flush with ICF walls. This task was weighing on me, as it is something I've never done before. I had never touched Comfortboard until today. Pleasantly surprised to find it is rather stiff. It does compress, but bounces back to shape. I liked how it fit together (tight seams).

BTW - a bread knife cuts it to size easily.

Property Wall Room Building Door

Wood Hardwood Grass Rock Floor
 
Discussion starter · #1,008 ·
Got the exterior insulation up, and am currently fiddling with Typar (house wrap). Slow going, as it involves working at height. Once I get house wrap on, then I can play with dual zone split air heat pump I bought (Senville 18kW). I got a spot for the compressor all set up (using now defunct electrical kiosk location). Thanks to 'Bobby', getting some boulders and dirt in place wasn't much of an issue. And 10 bags of concrete, have a nice pad for compressor unit. I do wish I had thought of extra conduit for split air heat pump...will have to rent a monster bit and drill through concrete wall.

House Property Home Roof Building

House Property Roof Building Cottage

Rock Boulder Concrete
 
Discussion starter · #1,009 ·
Got the split air heat pump hooked up. I do hope it lasts. Took a bit out of me, as there was a mix-up on parts I ordered (2wks to sort out), was the first time dealing with this sort of thing, and I had another electrical inspection in the middle of it.

Drilled 7 holes in concrete wall to run all the copper lines and electrical wiring. Got a disconnect for heat pump, which turned out to be a fusible disconnect...doh! They look the same, but one requires fuses, while the other doesn't. Basically, you need a means of electrically disconnecting heat pump beside the unit. It doesn't have to be a breaker or fuse, just a switch rated for 20amps. The power supplying heat pump has a 20 amp breaker in main panel. Each head unit (2) requires a 4 conductor control line, and the one supplied was basically an extension cord which would probably cause some angst with electrical inspector, so I swapped it out with Teck cable (waterproof armored cable) I luckily had lying around. Note: might be ok for interior portion of run, but not for outside (need mechanical protection).
I had to splice copper lines together for 2nd floor run, because of long run. Then, once hooked up (use Nylog gasket sealant), I had evacuate copper line sets. I was going to get an HVAC person in, but for $250, I bought a vacuum pump with hoses and gauges (what HVAC folks use). Lots of manual reading, and a few YouTube vids later, I got the system evacuated.

These things should be mandatory up here. I've seen them in use all over the world, but not many in my hood. Very efficient, inverter tech (quiet) and none of that AC smell. I've only had this thing hooked up for a day, but looking at my electrical usage, I am 20-50% lower than previous days ($2.35 vs ~$3.35 - the $2.35 day includes a bath, which costs a $1). Better yet, my whole house is at the exact temp I set it. Was a tad chilly this morning, and the unit heat up my place in less than half the time of baseboard heaters. Speaking of which, they are now museum pieces.

Electronics Technology Machine Electronic device Electrical wiring

Wood

Room Ceiling Air conditioning


Yes, I can turn off LEDs. It seems the prices have gone up for split air heat pumps...I bought mine a few months ago for $500 less. My setup was complicated/fussy, and I didn't want to mount compressor on side of house. Youtube vids make it seem so easy....


Senville SENA-18MO-209 18000 BTU Dual Zone Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump, Mini

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UV3LL1S/

Kozyvacu Mini Split/HVAC/AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 4.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MZ5T96H/
 
I'm thinking a mini-split with 3 interior units would be perfect for our place. I won't need one that can heat because we are putting radiant heat in the floor and a wood stove for makeup heat if we need. I like not having to run all that ductwork in the ceiling. We are doing a shed roof with no attic, so running ductwork would be a challenge. Not having to deal with ductwork will make life so much easier.
 
Discussion starter · #1,011 ·
I'm thinking a mini-split with 3 interior units would be perfect for our place. I won't need one that can heat because we are putting radiant heat in the floor and a wood stove for makeup heat if we need. I like not having to run all that ductwork in the ceiling. We are doing a shed roof with no attic, so running ductwork would be a challenge. Not having to deal with ductwork will make life so much easier.
The difference between my portable AC unit, and the split air heat pump (SAHP) is night and day. The portable needed a hose to outside, which sucked in warm air from outside. The SAHP doesn't suck in outside air...just cools or heats inside air. Eventually, I will get a heat recovery ventilator or energy recovery ventilator, but for now, at least I am not sucking in forest fire smoke. We have some warm days coming up, will see how it performs. My 2 head unit seems to be easily handling my 1000sqft abode. I probably overshot the size of unit required for my home. Compressor rarely fires up to max. Compressor fan is moving so slow I can almost count revolutions. It is so quiet, I find myself walking up to head units to see if air is blowing.
 
The difference between my portable AC unit, and the split air heat pump (SAHP) is night and day. The portable needed a hose to outside, which sucked in warm air from outside. The SAHP doesn't suck in outside air...just cools or heats inside air. Eventually, I will get a heat recovery ventilator or energy recovery ventilator, but for now, at least I am not sucking in forest fire smoke. We have some warm days coming up, will see how it performs. My 2 head unit seems to be easily handling my 1000sqft abode. I probably overshot the size of unit required for my home. Compressor rarely fires up to max. Compressor fan is moving so slow I can almost count revolutions. It is so quiet, I find myself walking up to head units to see if air is blowing.
The way you built your bunker, I'm sure that any unit will have a higher efficiency than if it were in a standard stick built home. That should make for more comfort for you and your wallet.
 
Senville SENA-18MO-209 18000 BTU Dual Zone Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump, Mini
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UV3LL1S/

Kozyvacu Mini Split/HVAC/AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 4.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MZ5T96H/
While a vacuum pump is always nice to have, newer models of mini-split systems don't require one. The lineset connection fittings are low-loss. Just connect the lineset to the service valves, open the service valves, and turn on the system. Of course, follow the manufacturer's instructions that came with your system.

PS - Don't pay $2300 for an 18000 btu/hour mini split heat pump. This is more like it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362389755482

You're also paying about twice what you should for a single-stage vacuum pump. But as I pointed out, you shouldn't need one for a new mini split installation. I bought my vacuum pump off eBay and paid about $55, delivered.
 
Discussion starter · #1,014 ·
While a vacuum pump is always nice to have, newer models of mini-split systems don't require one. The lineset connection fittings are low-loss. Just connect the lineset to the service valves, open the service valves, and turn on the system. Of course, follow the manufacturer's instructions that came with your system.

PS - Don't pay $2300 for an 18000 btu/hour mini split heat pump. This is more like it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362389755482

You're also paying about twice what you should for a single-stage vacuum pump. But as I pointed out, you shouldn't need one for a new mini split installation. I bought my vacuum pump off eBay and paid about $55, delivered.
Manufacturer was pretty clear about vacuuming lines. Since I didn't use a 'qualified' HVAC installer to install, no warrantee, but I wanted to cover my bases in case something went south. I do think it best not to mix atmospheric air in line-sets (I had 45ft worth).
I should point out I didn't pay $2399 for a one head unit, but $1899 ($CDN) for a two head unit. I got my unit just before they jacked up the price for the summer crowd. Plus, they have a Canadian presence, which gave me free shipping.

A month of use so far, and I can't complain. Doesn't matter what the weather is like outside, inside, I am exactly where I want to be, temperature wise. The most startling difference is my electrical bill. We have 'smart' meters, and can see the hourly usage, and rolling estimate for expected bi-monthly bill. My estimated bill for next billing cycle has been falling like a rock since I installed it (~30% decrease so far).

Given, I am in Canada, by default, we seem to pay more for anything, including shipping. Prices I gave are in Canadian bucks. The vacuum pump selection was really based on reviews. I was mulling over a cheaper option, but it had too many negative reviews, and there was some chatter about it not having the R-410A fittings.

Initially, I thought buying a 2-head unit was a bit of a splurge for my modest place, as I thought the air would circulate throughout house easily with a one head unit. I was wrong...Upstairs used to be the oven (warm air rises), and downstairs the cool zone. With heat pump, I can turn upstairs into a fridge, and downstairs just sits there at 70F. Figured cool air would descend...I seem to be creating an inversion in house, but with another head unit in living room, I can fix that disparity.

My biggest worry is that I am getting dependent on my heat pump. My gosh, I remember just having a good fan and plenty of open windows was, supposedly enough. My heat pump better not let me down. Never lived in a place where temps were exactly what I wanted. I am getting too soft. Saw a neighbor the other day, and he was replacing his expensive rolling screen door. I was thinking I should get one...then I realized, it isn't a necessity anymore. I even wired my place for 2 ceiling fans, and even had a decent ceiling fan offered to me. I turned it down. Now, I am wondering, do I need ceiling fans...be more for show, than practical applications.
 
Discussion starter · #1,017 ·
<bump>

90 days plus since last update... how goes it?
It goes good, thanks! Was letting this thread fade down the pages, since I don't really have much more to show per se, and I took the summer off (being in building and land development mode for 6 yrs wore me out). Drywall and siding are the two items left on the agenda for this build. I got hung up on siding options. Wanted to go with extruded aluminum 'Easy Trim' with Hardie flat panels, but sticker shock has pretty much nixed that idea.

Bought a whack of metal roofing on the cheap...going to stick it on the underside of deck to give myself a dry space under deck.

Property House Building Home Cottage

Got some gutters installed, and installed 4" PVC pipe to drain it far away from house...should I ever get motivated on siding, I won't get pelted by rain on low side.

Soil Grass Lawn Tree Drainage


Noticed the heat pump in above pic...we went from full-on summer to fall in a few days, even reaching freezing for a few nights. My electric usage hasn't spiked, as it would with baseboard heaters.

This a comparison with neighbors (light blue is my house);
Text Blue Font Line Screenshot

And this is a comparison with last year usage (light blue is this year's usage);

Text Blue Font Line Screenshot


It looks like I will incur ~$100/mth for electrical usage, which isn't all bad ($75 per month this past summer with heat pump in AC mode all the time). I have no gas appliances or wood stove. Was gung-ho to get a wood stove, but for the effort, I won't be saving much. And if we get a power outage, my genny can easily run the heat pump. We had one outage already...just 4hrs. My guilty pleasure is having cooling mode on at night in bedroom, because house doesn't cool down very well at night, then waking up and cranking on heat to warm up my mornings...lol.
 
It is a pleasure to read & reread this thread, thank you for accommodating distant-folk by sharing your process! Remember it's not the big things that age people the most, it's just the normal hassles of everyday living that wear folks down - so maybe continued sharing here could be therapeutic eh?

I'd like to see how you approach under-deck water barrier, neighbor three lots up from me has near same layout as your raised deck complete with drip-festival lurking just outside the doorway...

Those usage comparison charts? In my neighborhood just this year they finally filtered out the 'Snow Bird' residences, I mean we are frugal but they kept touting neighbors were using half or less energy that made their charts useless.

I'm curious where that 15-20kwh goes on your low-use days, well pump and... ?
 
Discussion starter · #1,019 ·
It is a pleasure to read & reread this thread, thank you for accommodating distant-folk by sharing your process! Remember it's not the big things that age people the most, it's just the normal hassles of everyday living that wear folks down - so maybe continued sharing here could be therapeutic eh?

I'd like to see how you approach under-deck water barrier, neighbor three lots up from me has near same layout as your raised deck complete with drip-festival lurking just outside the doorway...

Those usage comparison charts? In my neighborhood just this year they finally filtered out the 'Snow Bird' residences, I mean we are frugal but they kept touting neighbors were using half or less energy that made their charts useless.

I'm curious where that 15-20kwh goes on your low-use days, well pump and... ?
Low use days would be heat pump in cooling mode for a few hours (mild days), no washer/dryer, fridge, stove (a big consumer), computer/TV, landscape lights, HWT, DW, interior lights (all LEDs, so minimal energy usage). Well pump would turn on for about 10 minutes a day, so energy use would be minimal there. The HWT costs ~$1 per day (bath), which is the biggest energy consumer (stove 2nd).

Yeah, going to try to avoid the drip-festival by having a gutter catch the water dripping off metal. Will have to put in sleepers of varying thickness's to get a slope on metal.
 
Discussion starter · #1,020 ·
........
Those usage comparison charts? In my neighborhood just this year they finally filtered out the 'Snow Bird' residences, I mean we are frugal but they kept touting neighbors were using half or less energy that made their charts useless.

................
Yeah, I was wondering about that...specifically, grow-ops. Those places would blow up the average. They are probably on commercial accounts. My immediate neighbors are mostly full timers.
One thing I do know, I am the only one without a wood stove or fireplace.
 
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