HELP! Septic line from house to tank is broken.....

Discussion in 'Homesteading Questions' started by rosehaven, Jun 15, 2006.

  1. rosehaven

    rosehaven Well-Known Member

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    what do we need to replace it. Currently PVC from house meets clay pipe 5 feet from tank. Clay pipe is broken where the PVC meets. Need to replace the entire line and install clean out.

    Thank you for any help you can pass along!!!!!!!
     
  2. wvpeach1963

    wvpeach1963 WVPEACH (Paula)

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    Did it up and wash it off with a hose as best as possible.

    Make sure you dig up enough to know they haven't reduced the size of the line at some point.

    then cut off a piece and take it to a good hardware / builders supply store.

    They will be able to get you outfitted with the piece you need along with fittings and glue to do the job right.
     

  3. cast iron

    cast iron Well-Known Member

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    I had to replace our mainline a couple years ago. I put the clean-out just after the pipe exits the house. Had to get a specific coupler to go from the sewer pipe to the short cast-iron pipe stub that comes out of the foundation wall. I also had to rebuild (concrete) the inlet hole in the tank and install a grease trap.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Cabin Fever

    Cabin Fever Life NRA Member since 1976 Supporter

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    First of all, you’ll need a shovel to dig up the line. Remove the clay tile. Purchase the necessary length of PVC pipe. Buy the same type and size of PVC pipe that you already have in the ground. Chances are you have 4-inch, Schedule 40 PVC pipe (the light blue stuff).

    Cut the existing PVC line as close as possible to the house. Install a “sanitary tee” in the line for the clean out (make sure the curved end of the tee is toward the septic tank). Bring the top end of the tee to just above the ground surface using a section of pipe and cap it. (don’t glue the cap on!)

    Run the new pipe to the septic tank and insert it just into the tank’s inlet opening. You’ll likely have to slop some black mastic over this joint. Make sure the sewer pipe is at a slope of 1/8” to ¼” per foot….no more, no less. Before you backfill the trench, make sure the soil below the pipe is tamped firm.
     
  5. frugalville

    frugalville Well-Known Member

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    I see you are also in the bluegrass state.

    Sorry about your septic. Fix it once, fix it right.

    Not sure why your clay fitting broke, but I'm guessing 'cause the pipe is old.
    If you only have 5 feet from good pvc to the tank, I would dig it up and fix the whole 5 feet. 1/8 fall on pipe.

    I think it is schedule 40 ? Plumbers help here...
    Get a piece of pipe, couplers, some solvent weld and fix that thing. (oh wait, you probably have to pull a permit for that :}) Use gloves and old clothes. We are talking raw sewage here.

    Ky will let you pull your own plumbing, but not septic. I'm not sure where they split the hair on where 1 starts and the other leaves off. I pulled the plumbing and did ours up to the septic tank, septic guys did leach field and distribution box.

    I would put in 2 cleanouts. One immediately coming out of the house and then one right before the tank intake.
    So if you ever have to snake, you will know if it is a line or tank problem.

    If you do get someine to do it, watch for this trick. Sometimes an installer will leave alot of pipe on the input and it will stick out in the tank. (sometimes too close to the 1st baffle)- Make sure they cut it short so you don't get a paper clog there.

    If you don't feel comfortable doing the work, you can always dig it up yourself, then call a plumber to fix it. I am pretty sure that drain line needs to be set on #57 rock as well. Parts shouldn't be over $25 bucks, 2 hours labor MAX.
     
  6. Danaus29

    Danaus29 Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Schedule 40 pvc is white. Carried by Home Depot and Lowes along with the connectors, glue, and elbows. (I just spent $50 on sewer related pipes yesterday). The blue stuff is sanitary sewer line and available at specialty stores who's main business is sewer and drainage products. Most are more expensive than DIY places. Don't remove any pieces until you have the replacements available or you will have a huge smelly mess in your yard. Measure the output at the house and the input into your tank, the distance from the house to the tank, and note any bends (elbows) or additional lines running into your main line. 4 inch diameter line and cleanouts are much much cheaper than 6 inch. You also need to check your Board of Health codes for outlet diameter size. Some places do require 6 inch, Ohio calls for 4 inch. Buy more than you think you'll need (saves trips, I've been to the store 3 times in the past 2 weeks. Yeh, I need a better plumber but hubby works for free) Save your receipt so you can return any uneeded parts. Some localities require all outdoor septic to be done by a licensed contractor. Better check with Board of Health on all of it. I know our old line is not on a gravel bed and was really thin black water line and not burried deep enough. Yep, it had to be replaced, and before the new EPA required central sewer system was up and running. Oh, the old saying "measure twice, cut once" really applies here. Make sure your new line is the size you need before glueing all those joints together.
     
  7. Gideon

    Gideon Well-Known Member

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    Ours did the same thing and we put in new from the wall to the tank.
     
  8. rosehaven

    rosehaven Well-Known Member

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    and our family has received a big blessing from all of you sharing your time and knowledge.

    Thank you again........... :dance:

    Ed and April
     
  9. danb98577

    danb98577 Well-Known Member

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    For what it is worth-those neoprene "no-hub" connectors with stainless hose clamps are a lifesaver for mating dissimilar piping and are used all the time out here. Know a fellow that does this for a living and he uses that urea foam to seal pipe joint where it goes into tank. He swears by it. Sure beats trying to pack sealing goo in awkward places. Be sure to clean it well with water and let dry as much as possible before using the foam. This is in SW Washington so it definitely works in wet climate-Dan
     
  10. fordy

    fordy Well-Known Member

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    ...............One More point , I had a leak where my 4 inch PVC drain line went INTO my tank . I inquired about what type of sealant would fix the pRoblem............Answer.......HYdraulic Cement !!!!!!!! About 10 bucks at Lowes or H.Depot . This stuff is very sticky and dries in about 3 minutes from the time you start mixing . You must keep the whole area to be sealed ....WET...(i.e. , the septic tank) . You MUST mix very quickly and 'Pack' the Hole with all dispatch . Keep a water hose running slowly and also keep a 5 gallon plastic bucket about half full to wash your hands in . IT works extremely well and I let the hose dribble a constant flow over the patch job for about 24 hours after I had finished . fordy... :)