Hay baling equipment?

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by CountryGoalie, Jun 21, 2006.

  1. CountryGoalie

    CountryGoalie Well-Known Member

    Aug 31, 2004
    We have a 1973 Ford 2000.

    What is some of the basic machinery that would be compatible with this tractor, that we would need to make rectangular (square?) bales for our horses and rabbits?

    Also, what are affordable avenues in which to seek out such equipment?
  2. tyusclan

    tyusclan Well-Known Member

    Jan 1, 2005
    At the very least you're going to need a hay cutter, a rake and a square baler. A tedder is nice to have, but you can get by without that. You can easily find a hay cutter and a rake to match your horsepower on the 2000. It'll probably run the baler, but you'll need to make small pile rows and go slowly. Some rotary mowers come with one or both sides of the mower bolted on, so that one side or the other can be removed. The mower can then be used to cut hay because the mower will throw the hay out before it chops it up too much. They're usually a little less expensive than a hay cutter.

    Unless you have a lot of hay to cut and sell, it's really more cost efficient to buy the hay.

  3. Ross

    Ross Moderator Staff Member Supporter

    May 9, 2002
    I think it will have trouble with most balers. new they put out 30 hp it'll be more like 27 now. You can get a baler with a small engine so all the tractor has to do is pull it, and a Ford 2000 should have enough mass to pull it safely. A scicle bar mower and a rake and you're good to go. If you shop around they can be had fairly cheap, the baler with a good running engine will be both hard to find and pricey.
  4. FarmboyBill

    FarmboyBill Well-Known Member Supporter

    Aug 19, 2005
    You dont say how many acres your going to be doing, or whether its hilly land or flat. This knowledge would be needed to make a good assessment of your needs and abilities. My 1934 CC Case came out with 37hp. It can pull a 7ft sickle mower anywhere. I also use a steel wheeled JD side rake and have no trouble with it. Actually ive pulled it with my 48 Cub Farmall with no problems other than being SLOW. I use a 1960 Case W 140 engine bailer, and pull it uphill and anywhere else with no problems. Your tractor is much lighter than mine and it might want to dance around with yours when stopping. With yours I would get a pto bailer. youll do alright with it I think. If the bailer you get is used MAKE SURE YOU KNOW IT WILL BALE. TAKE HAY TO IT IF NOTHING ELSE AND RUN IT AND FEED IT INTO IT JUST TO WATCH IT BALE IT. The 2nd one I bought, even a professional bailer man couldnt fix it, but the 3rd was just like it, and I think I know now what was the matter with it. The first had a busted engine, I could have fixed, but I was a kid, and junked it. It was a 55 McCormick made in the late 40s.Myself, I would never use a brush hog to cut hay with. A sickle mower cuts a wider swath, and dosent cut it up as much. By cutting a stem of hay once, you retain the moisture a bit longer which, in dry areas is a plus, and it makes a better bale
  5. rambler

    rambler Well-Known Member Supporter

    Jan 20, 2004
    This site has lots of good help, the Haying FAQ:


    Does your tractor have live pto? I'm more familiar with the 100 series of Fords, I believe the 2000 came with different configurations too, not sure.

    What it comes down to on your tractor, you can riun a square baler if you have live pto; you will have a miserable go of it - tho possible - if you don't. It makes a huge difference.

    Type of hay (alfalfa, grass, etc.) and number of acres will make a big difference on the equipment you need.

    Farm retirement auctions are the best place, imho, to get good low-cost equipment. Old stuff at a dealer costs a premium price for something that someone traded away - for some reason???? Ads in the paper can be good or bad.

    If you are in farming area, you should be able to find the regional tabloid paper that handles all the farm auctions & many of the farm classifieds. There's one in every 10 county area.....

    Sickle mower in good shape, any old hay rake, a _good_ baler - NH or JD will make you some grass hay bales.

    For alfalfa, or for a bigger acrage you likely want a haybine/ mower-conditioner and your tractor is pretty light & small for that.

  6. agmantoo

    agmantoo agmantoo Supporter

    May 22, 2003
    Zone 7
    Here in NC, I have a Massey Ferguson 124 square baler for sale that has been seldom used as I went to a round baler shortly after buying the 124. I have pulled it with a gas burner MF135 with no problem.
  7. Blu3duk

    Blu3duk Well-Known Member

    Jun 2, 2002
    central idaho republic
    A baler in good condition with a motor may be hard to find in some areas.... I know of 2 here in central idaho that aint in to bad of shape and for about $2k could be had from the present owners... maybe less...... which is a far cry from the cost of a new baler and motor setup.

    My dad used a JD 14T with a wisconsin powering it for years [wore out 3 balers before going to a PTO] and mostly used an old JD420 to pull it [24 HP].... your ford should be able to pull a 7 foot sickle mower without much problem in most grass hay, not sure about alphalfa though if its thick, might want to seek out a 6 foot.... around these parts about $500 for a top used JD model 7 or 8 and ive seen them for just hauling them away.... one fella offered me a mower and baler if id buy his tractor for $500 [needed work] but i just didnt have the extra $500 at the time.... might still be availble a person never knows.

    check the nickel want ads in your area..... maybe the closest craigs list might have a listing for you

  8. CatsPaw

    CatsPaw Who...me?

    Jun 16, 2006
    Owen Co., Indiana
    uh....a couple of things.

    Do you have to actually bale it? Could you just pile it on a wagon like they used to and store it loose. Save big money.

    Haybines cut AND crimp. By crimping the shafts the excess moisture is released much faster. A good thing when you have alot of off and on rain during the summer. If you're going to bale you want to get it cut and baled and stored as quickly as possible.

    Last, check around with neighbors as (around here) there are alot of people that will come bale it for you for not alot of money or possibly for sharing the harvest. This seems common because small farmers have more time than money. So, it's better to spend a couple of days getting some "free" hay than paying $2-$4 a bale for their winter forage.

    Auctions, auctions, auctions! Good thing 'cause the owner is usually around to give info (well...o.k....not for estate auctions, but...) Know your prices and DON'T buy it if it isn't a bargain.

    You might found out why so many farmers go bankrupt. The investment in equipment for each and every operation is mind boggling!

    rodger that...kkshhhhsshhk...click.....over and out.