New traps I've had, had oil on them from the tooling. I let them set out and get a light coat of rust, to make sure the oil had dissapeared, before boiling and waxing. It's possible to boil the oil off, but would require a way to dispose of the surface water before lifting a trap through it. The oil residue would probably be a definate reason a coyote would avoid, or dig a set up. Some years I didn't boil or wax and the results were probably just as good. There is iron everywhere around here, from fences and old homesteads... more of a ordinary odor.
BTW... I thought you were going after coyotes as well? #11's seem pretty light?
Never had any experience with scent neutralizers. But I tend to doubt thier affectiveness when dealing with something that is already wary? In other words... How can you cover up a scent without creating another? Especially with something that can detect in parts per million.
Never used 110's either, but had a few 220's. They had a lock to use for one side, after compressing one spring, so you could compress the other. Seems like I've seen some C-clamps modified for that, if you're having trouble.
Good Luck!
BTW... I thought you were going after coyotes as well? #11's seem pretty light?
Never had any experience with scent neutralizers. But I tend to doubt thier affectiveness when dealing with something that is already wary? In other words... How can you cover up a scent without creating another? Especially with something that can detect in parts per million.
Never used 110's either, but had a few 220's. They had a lock to use for one side, after compressing one spring, so you could compress the other. Seems like I've seen some C-clamps modified for that, if you're having trouble.
Good Luck!
