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Discussion in 'Goats' started by Va. goatman, Aug 17, 2006.
has anyone heard of using Ivomec + safe guard together . If so what dose to give goats
I have given my younger goats them med close together but not on the same day. On the ivomec give the dose you would give your goats and then wait the next day to give the safeguard. For my younger goats I give 2 cc of Ivomec but that depends on their weight. On safeguard on the paste I go to the first notch but I can not tell you how much cc I give in safeguard sorry..
It's called a cocktail. It is given at the same time, it does not need to be mixed together. The white wormer of course in this case, fendbendasole, will only work effectively with the addition of a clear wormer...Ivermectin, Cydectin etc...which gets the stomach worms. Its a wonderul combination to be used in the south when bringing in new goats with resistance to wormers, to use on a day with a good heavy freeze in areas of no freeze (all the arrested larve, worms and eggs evacuating the body are pooped out into the frozen ground (not in their barns), or to use on your own resistant herd.
I have used this in the past in quranteen of does who come from folks who "worm monthly, switch wormers and use wormers at incorrect dosages or routes of administering".
Texas A&M's Dr. Craddock gave our club this information during a paristology refresher course. Vicki
wormers and dosages: http://184.108.40.206/search?q=cach...guard+sheep++dosage&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=4&
As we look at doing some fall worming, this "cocktail" idea sounds interesting. I assume that if you're giving the same dosages of each wormer that you would if you were giving them alone? It seems like a lot of wormer to be giving all at once . . . but thought I'd ask if the vet you heard speak on the subject had any comment on this.
The dosage, and it's on this site from a few years ago, is for the mixture of Levamisole (a cattle injectable given at 3cc per 100 pounds orally (this is actually my secret weapon for resistant animals, levamisole works wonderfully here for me on it's own) and Fendbendasole (safeguard or panacur) it was also for Ivermectin 1cc per 50 pounds orally and Fendbendasole...the premise is that it brings your percentage of eggs killed at worming, and the evacuation of adult worms, rather than them arresting up to 99% something nobody has seen until the Cydectin came around. Although a bensazole like safeguard/pancur it is a differing enough of a compound and not widely used that Levamisole works well in cocktails and by itself.
At the last talk (when Dr. Craig and Craddock came to the club) most were using mixtures of white and clear wormers at dosages that worked on their farm (most of the folks I talk to about stuff like this fecal like I do).
I think the cocktail idea would be great for the use in resistant goats, especially purchased from those who worm monthly, or who worm without any fecal sampling at all. It is also the cocktail I would use, if and when we ever get another freeze Having 99% of stomach worms and tapes pooped out onto the frozen ground and not in the bedding would be huge for any breeding farm, especially long established herds.
Using a cocktail that works is alot less chemical in your goat than the worming over and over again with it not working. It would be a lot less stress on the goat as a whole to get rid of adults and arrested larve, and also the anemia they cause rather than hitting them with this or that or using things that don't work. Vicki
I have had goats for about 10 years + never had much trouble with worms till this summer wounder why
With the high heat and drought we've had lately, would most worms, eggs and larvae have been killed? Or are they just laying around waiting for some rain.
Debi, not even burning the pasture will kill them! The only way heat would kill them is if there is zero moisture in the soil, like in the desert. Here I know we have soo much dew on the grass, even if it is brunt to a crisp like right now, that my shoes are wet just walking to the barn! Vicki
How VERY good to hear from you again. I've been missing you.
Of course, I was hoping you'd say the worms are toast but...phooey.
How're your hay prices near Houston? Ya'll have had tons of rain. If they're still reasonable, I might have to make a trip with the trailer. Everybody looks good, despite the crummy hay. They get a little bit of alfalfa pellets, BOSS and whole oats.
I've been starting to wonder about worming my goats. They don't seem to get hay bellies like I see other herds do, though they get plenty of feed. We do live in the desert. So, would that mean that worms wouldn't be a big problem for us? Should I still worm them? Still learning about goatology here.
Look at the inside of the lower eyelids. If they are pale pink or white they need worming. Bright pink or red is fine. Worms can be anywhere , jsut heavier in some places
Have you been worming them on a regualr basis? If so , it could be they are building up a resistance to your wormer.
Worms Never build a resistance to food grade diatomatious earth.
I need to take some pearls into the vet to see if it's working for me.I think it is :shrug: And with paste wormer last year the worms got out of hand even using two types!