Garden Problems, please help

Discussion in 'Gardening & Plant Propagation' started by cvfmom, Jun 24, 2006.

  1. cvfmom

    cvfmom Active Member

    Oct 28, 2002
    North Carolina
    We started this year's garden in another plot behind our house. DH tilled, fertilizer (10/10/10) on it then started planting and sprayed Miracle Gro. The tomatoes are wonderfully green but as they are turning they are rotting on the bottom. We have them staked in tomato wire cones. Some of the cucumbers are regular ones some are turning yellow, but they are good. The zuchini has just stop putting out and we can't tell what happened to the broccoli, it flowered and that's it. We takes care of it daily, weeds it, waters everything. An ideas??


  2. BrahmaMama

    BrahmaMama Well-Known Member

    Nov 12, 2005
    From my experience, a yellow cuke means it's DONE! Are they big? Try picking them before they get too large. I know it's a pain, you have check them 3 times a day because they grow so fast, don't they?

    With the tomatoes, Maybe they are getting too much water? :shrug: I have found they like to dry out between waterings. If they "struggle" some, they tend to be hardier.

    Try to lay off the chemical fertilizers, and use manure instead. I do miracle grow once or twice just to give things a "kick start" ONLY if they are lagging, but otherwise, it's just manure and compost and mulch.

    Good luck. :)

  3. straight shot

    straight shot Well-Known Member

    May 8, 2006
    The zuchini has just stop putting out and we can't tell what happened to the broccoli, it flowered and that's it. We takes care of it daily, weeds it, waters everything. An ideas??

    You need to pick broccoli before it flowers.
  4. Ol'Reb

    Ol'Reb aka Mr T-Bone

    Apr 20, 2006
    Piney Hills of Louisiana CSA.
    Sounds like your tomatos have blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is a troublesome disease, familiar to most gardeners who have grown tomatoes. The disease is often prevalent in commercial as well as home garden tomatoes, and severe losses may occur if preventive control measures are not undertaken.

    Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit, but, most commonly, are first seen when the fruit is one-third to one-half full size. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. Initially a small, water-soaked spot appears, which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruits develop. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as onethird to one-half of the entire fruit surface, or the spot may remain small and superficial. Large lesions soon dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture.

    This disease does not spread from plant to plant in the field, nor from fruit to fruit in transit. Since it is of a physiological nature, fungicides and insecticides are useless as control measures. The occurrence of the disease is dependent upon a number of environmental conditions, especially those that affect the supply of water and calcium in the developing fruits. Factors that influence the uptake of water and calcium by the plant have an effect on the incidence and severity of blossom end rot. The disease is especially prevalent when rapidly growing, succulent plants are exposed suddenly to a period of drought. When the roots fail to obtain sufficient water and calcium to be transported up to the rapidly developing fruits, the latter become rotted on their basal ends. Another common predisposing factor is cultivation too close to the plant; this practice destroys valuable roots, which take up water and minerals. Tomatoes planted in cold, heavy soils often have poorly developed root systems. Since they are unable to supply adequate amounts of water and nutrients to plants during times of stress, blossom end rot may result. Soils that contain excessive amounts of soluble salts may predispose tomatoes to the disease, for the availability of calcium to the plants decreases rapidly as total salts in the soil increase.

    Control of blossom end rot is dependent upon maintaining adequate supplies of moisture and calcium to the developing fruits. Tomatoes should not be excessively hardened nor too succulent when set in the field. They should be planted in welldrained, adequately aerated soils. Tomatoes planted early in cold soil are likely to develop blossom end rot on the first fruits, with the severity of the disease often subsiding on fruits set later. Thus, planting tomatoes in warmer soils helps to alleviate the problem. Irrigation must be sufficient to maintain a steady even growth rate of the plants. Mulching of the soil is often helpful in maintaining adequate supplies of soil water in times of moisture stress. When cultivation is necessary, it should not be too near the plants nor too deep, so that valuable feeder roots remain uninjured and viable. In home gardens, shading the plants is often helpful when hot, dry winds are blowing, and soil moisture is low. Use of fertilizer low in nitrogen, but high in superphosphate, such as 4-12-4 or 5-20-5, will do much to alleviate the problem of blossom end rot. In emergency situations, foliage can be sprayed with calcium chloride solutions. However, extreme caution must be exercised since calcium chloride can be phytotoxic if applied too frequently or in excessive amounts. Foliar treatment is not a substitute for proper treatment of the soil to maintain adequate supplies of water and calcium.
  5. mary,tx

    mary,tx Well-Known Member Supporter

    Dec 4, 2002
    Broccoli should be picked before it flowers. It makes a nice head, you cut it off and eat it, and it makes side shoots. Once it flowers, it is going to seed. Go ahead and cut that whole head off, and if it is not too hot where you are already, maybe you will still get some side shoots. If you are in the South where it is hot, cut off the heads but leave the plant. It might make again in the fall.

    (If the broccoli flowered without ever really making a head, it is too hot. Here in Central Texas, we plant broccoli as a fall crop and it produces over the winter and very early spring.)

    The tomatoes have blossom end rot, which usually is from irregular watering. Since you say you are watering every day, I'd say cut back to twice a week, and water them well when you do.

    Cucumbers should be picked long before they turn yellow. If they are turning yellow while still small, perhaps they are getting sunburned? Do they have plenty of foliage, or are they heat stressed?

    It's hard to guess what the problem with the zuccini is without knowing what part of the country you are in or when you planted.

  6. mama2littleman

    mama2littleman El Paso

    Nov 8, 2004
    Hmm, the blossom end rot, combined with the yellowing cukes and zuchinni problems leads me toward overwatering being the problem.

    Make sure you are watering when the plants need it, not just becuase it's on your schedule.

    Here in el paso ... 2 months ago I watered twice a week, this month, I have to water twice a day. Difference between 80 - 90 degree days and 105 degree days and 5% humidity.

    If the soil is still moist 2 inches down, don't water.

  7. woodspirit

    woodspirit Well-Known Member

    Aug 3, 2005
    Bristol, ny
    Brahma M has got the right idea for sure about ferts. If you stake tomato's you are mnore likely to get cracking tomatoes so make sure you mulch to keep soil evenly moist. Tomatoes laying on the ground are more prone to insects and slugs, and tomato's in cages are more likely to get blossom end rot because of poor air circultion. There are pro's and cons to each method.
  8. Mid Tn Mama

    Mid Tn Mama Well-Known Member Supporter

    May 11, 2002
    Far more problems are caused by too much fertilizer than too little fertilizer. That's why an organic approach makes sense--it is always the correct amount and in the format the plant needs to grow. Compost. compost compost!
  9. Paquebot

    Paquebot Well-Known Member

    May 9, 2002
    South Central Wisconsin
    Air circulation has absolutely nothing to do with blossom end rot. BER is a physiological condition caused by a plant's inability to take up calcium. This usually is limited to the earliest fruit as the plant outgrows it when the roots have become deeper and more developed.