Front mounted hydraulic pump

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by HermitJohn, May 3, 2005.

  1. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

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    I recently bought a MF65 and pretty much decided to mount a front auxilary hydraulic pump to power loader. Cant find clear info on mounting front hydraulic pumps anywhere. Burdens has pumps cheap enough, but how to connect to front of engine driveshaft is mystery.

    Closest I came is http://tracparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?page=T/PROD/mfhydraulicpumpdriveshafts/A-707166M92

    which shows a front hydraulic pump "driveshaft". Best I can tell this driveshaft screws? into front end of engine crank and then pump's shaft fits into other end. Brackets apparently have to be fabricated to mount the pump. (looking at price, apparently they are very proud of this driveshaft also) It also is for a MF165, which should be very simular to my MF65 (think MF165 is just updated version of MF65) but thats unknown for sure also. Hard to get good look at where pump would go do to steering stuff in way. MF really wanted to make this tractor compact and went out of way to cram everything together as much as possible. Apparently steering pitman arm also has to be modified so as not to interfer with the pump driveshaft.
     
  2. agmantoo

    agmantoo agmantoo Supporter

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    Hermit, I do not have a 65 to look at but I have known people to make a drive shaft from a steering shaft and joint from a truck. Usually on factory kits the shaft is driven from a splined sprocket that is affixed to the front side of the crankshaft pulley. This is normally a slip fit affair and the shaft just slides into the pulley mounted spline. This is also a wear area as the spine seldom gets greased. Older tractors with a hand crank had the pump driven from the crank adapter. If you can weld a piece of pipe onto the face of the crankshaft pulley then cross drill the pipe to insert a pin. Next, you could weld a smaller diameter piece on the borrowed steering driveshaft and insert that inside the pipe on the pulley and install the drive pin and you should be good to go. The pump end of the steering shaft can be modified similarly as to it was mounted to the steering box and the cross joint will compensate for alignment error.
     

  3. moopups

    moopups In Remembrance

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    Keep in mind that belt driven hydraulic pumps are also available if there is room enough some where near the side of the block.
     
  4. Blu3duk

    Blu3duk Well-Known Member

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    Have you considered a pto mounted motor? probably a different set of problems, but if the one mitch suggested does not fit, there does remain that opportunity for the tractors having pto shafts.

    www.surpluscenter.com has a host of Hydraulic Parts that are reasonably priced and mostly new not just pieces remaned or taken out of service..... you can find several ways to get you fluids pumped.... maybe not the best idea for a tractor loader, but always a good place to look.

    My dad had a 420 JD with a Cheyene loader which he mounted a pump on the front, it had a driveline to the pump motor which was attatched to the frame of the loader and used the loader frame also as a resovoir if memory serves me correct [shoot i was only a few years old when he had that one in the early 60's]

    William
     
  5. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

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    hmm, thats interesting about using a steering shaft with the rubber. Beats paying some jackass over $125 for factory made shaft. Still have to find way to center connection to pulley as much as possible.

    Yep there are belt driven pumps. Ever try to keep belts tight on something like that?

    When I said Burdens, I was referring to Surplus Center. Used to be called Burdens Surplus out of Lincoln, NE. They are the place for hydraulic stuff. Only thing cheaper is if you luck into what you need on ebay or some local auction.

    PTO pumps work, and ok if you are mainly just using tractor for loader. Need to use your brush hog and you then have to prop up your loader some way or remove it and remove the pump to use the pto for the brush hog.

    I am just going to have to remove whatever is necessary to get to crank pulley and see what its like.
     
  6. Ozarks_1

    Ozarks_1 Well-Known Member

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    How about a 12v electric/hydraulic power unit?
    Pump and reservoir are one compact unit.

    I've got one on my TO20; built a mounting bracket right behind the seat so I didn't have any clearance issues. I put a toggle switch and solenoid on the dash so I can turn the pump on and have hydraulics for the loader when I want - that way I don't have to run the pump constantly.
    I got my power unit on eBay, but Northern Tool has them.
     
  7. Hip_Shot_Hanna

    Hip_Shot_Hanna Well-Known Member

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    the front pulley has threaded holes in it to bolt on a puller to pull it off ,3 i think , all you need to do is fabricate a plate that bolts onto the holes and fit 4 studs to it to bolt a propshaft to.
     
  8. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    any construction wrecking yard will have an old bac hoe . 202 work bulls came with the crank pulley tapped ready to accept the shaft. the ford shafts are less than the masseys!! any shaft can be lengthend but need the same key ways as the pump and drive . have fitted two fords like this , take time and do it right.
     
  9. farminghandyman

    farminghandyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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    you need to have the plate and hole and shaft fairly precession, it is not a back yard welders job, actual the site that was originally posted,
    plate
    http://tracparts.com/Merchant2/merc...veshafts&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-704812M93
    shaft,
    http://tracparts.com/Merchant2/merc...veshafts&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-704997M92

    probly is not that bad of a deal,

    if you coble up a mess it will tear up many things do to vibration, you will be spinning that shaft at a fairly good speed when the engine will is at full speed,

    and you should look in to a vane pump as well, as the vane pump will on pump on start up, and let the motor spin easer as it will not be pumping Hydraulic fluid with the starter motor,

    this is not a place to skimp on doing it right, if you chose to do it your self, find some one with a lathe and mill or heavy drill press and preferable an indexing head, to make the plate and then to make key ways on the shaft,

    if wanted you could use a flex coupler on the pump shaft, if you think alignment could be a challenge,
     
  10. HermitJohn

    HermitJohn Well-Known Member

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    Interesting farmhandyman, went looking at other listing for adapterplate and :

    (Massey) Hydraulic Pump Adapter Plate - For 35, 150, 65, 135, 50, 235, 245, IND: 20, 20C, 30, 30B, 30D, 35, 40, 50, 202, 203, 204, 205, 2135, 2200. Front Mounted Hydraulic Pump Adapter Plate. 5 1-4 Diameter with 3 bushings, mountinghols 3 3-8 on center, 3-4 threaded center hole. (Part No: 704812M93)

    So three holes are 3 3/8 inch on center. Can get a splined adapter for pump for $20 at burdens. Splined one end to fit pump shaft, 1inch round and keyed other end. TSC sells gear hubs that you then weld sprocket to, no biggie getting one to fit one inch shaft, then weld to plate (perhaps even a sprocket right size so everything is perfectly round) so have surface to drill the three holes. Getting holes lined up exact would be the trick. Hmm...

    guess its doable with pretty good accuracy. I have to say I think factory shaft/hub for $200 is horse hockey. If they sold shaft+hub together for $100, then I'd just pay the man the $100 to save the hassle since materials would cost $50 or so retail to do it way I suggest above.