Ford Taurus electrical problem

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by DayBird, May 24, 2005.

  1. DayBird

    DayBird Big Bird

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    You've guys have helped me before.

    I'm having problems with the taurus again. Everything seems to be running fine, except:

    Sometimes, when taking off from a parked position, when you put it in drive (it's automatic) it doesn't shift out of 1st, it revs up to over 5K RPMs and the speedometer will not move. The first time this happened, I took it to AAMCO transmissions. They said there was nothing wrong with the transmission. They pulled a 1550 code and said there was a communications error but that they couldn't fix it. They refered me to another mechanic.

    I couldn't go right away to this other mechanic. Then the brakes didn't work right. The pedal went all the way to the floor without stopping. I had just had the pads changed about 2 months ago. We've not had a problem with them since. We were no where near home so we stopped at one of the chain oil change places. They said nothing was wrong with the brakes and that I needed to have a mechanic check it out.

    Later that day, on the way home, I was travelling down I-65 just north of B'ham going about 60mph. It seemed as if the car hit a brick wall. It jarred really bad but didn't slow down, the speedometer went to zero and the transmission shifted down to 1st and the engine revved up to 5k RPMs again. I pulled over to the side of the road, came to a complete stop, didn't change gears, and started off again and didn't have any more trouble with it. That was last week.

    Before I could get it to the recommended mechanic, I stopped at AutoZone and they said there was nothing wrong that they could find. He thought I was crazy that I asked him about pulling a code when the check engine light didn't come on. It hasn't been on yet. He did look up the code 1550 and said that there was a communcation error to the ABS.

    I did get it to the recommended mechanic. He kept the car all day and couldn't find anything wrong with it. That was last Friday. He further refered me to BEBCO, Birmingham Electrical Battery Company, as he says they're the best for automobile electrical problems. They can't even see my car until the middle of next week.

    What am I to do? The brake problem only happened once and when I pumped the brakes again, the car stopped fine. The shifting while in motion only happend once. The speedometer does bounce around alot, mainly it seems when I'm above 60mph and 2K RPMs.

    Anyone else around Birmingham, AL have a recommendation as to whom to take this car to or what I might be able to do at home?
     
  2. WanderingOak

    WanderingOak Well-Known Member

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    What year is the car? Does the Check Engine light come on at all, even when you start the car? How about the brake warning light? Did it come on when your brakes went out, and does it come on when the car is started? The spedometer gets it's input from the tranny, so there is definitely something out to lunch in that area. If you aren't throwing any codes, it might be a vacuum problem. That would fool the ECM on an older car. You might want to check all of the vacuum lines under the hood.
     

  3. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    i will not tell u the best way to fix ford wireing, besides being illeagal it's also dangerous! often with taurus it's either a bad ground or broken wire both difficult to find and repair .wire can seperate in the sheath then reconect enough to fool a circuit tester. went through this for two years before abandoning paying mechanics to play find the brokenwire/bad ground (as well as our own attemps)
     
  4. DayBird

    DayBird Big Bird

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    It's a '99 automatic. Yeah, when I first put the key in the ignition, all of the lights briefly come on. Once the car is started, only the airbag light and the fasten seatbelt light remain on. The airbag light stays on slightly longer than the rest and the seatbelt light remains on until I fasten my seatbelt, or about 5 minutes, which ever comes first. I don't think any of the lights are out. No, neither the check engine light or the brake light has come on during any of these problems.

    The guy at AAMCO transmissions found the 1550 code. The guy at AutoZone, the guy at the oil change place and the recommended mechanic didn't find any codes. AAMCO said that they "think" they know what wire needs to be replaced, but it's a $200 wire with fees charged on top of that.

    The car has been fine the last couple of days, even this morning when we made the mad dash to the post office to pick up the baby chickens, nothing went wrong. It's very brief when there is a problem and the problems are very sporadic.
     
  5. DayBird

    DayBird Big Bird

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    Should I just trade the thing? I'm thinking about it. I owe one more payment and it's mine. Yippie :grump: !

    The dealer I bought it from, used, will give me a $2500 trade in value towards an extended cab F150 truck which would be infinately more useful to me, but then I'm back to making monthly payments that I really don't want to have to afford.
     
  6. fordson major

    fordson major construction and Garden b Supporter

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    car wiring of any sort when it gets older(sometimes even new) is prone to corrosin at the conecters and components ,that is easy to see and fix,some times the wire breaks in the middle of the run . trucks are much handier than cars ,we jumped on the payment band wagon and bought a 4 door dodge last year so all of us could go instead of just three in our old pickup and because my wife has to drive any time day or night had to be relyable. we have shyed away from ford since the triton came on board ,the old inline six and the five litre were much better engines as were the tranys in the pickups. still depends on your comfort level,may end up paying the same as a monthly payment to keep the car on the road anyways!
     
  7. John Hill

    John Hill Grand Master

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    I very much suspect the brakes are a seperate issue. I have never heard of the pedal going to the floor without something being wrong with the brakes! I would not like to drive a car like that faster than I could run and I would have sleepless nights if I sold it to someone else in that condition. The brakes must be checked out.


    I agree with WanderingOak and others who think all the other problems are wireing related or related to a bad speed sensor in the transmission. If your trans is anything like mine there will be a whole bunch of wires going to the solenoid block and a single wire going to the speed sensor that will be near the top of the trans housing. As a first step I would check that top connection.