Flooded Car

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by RockyRooster, Sep 12, 2006.

  1. RockyRooster

    RockyRooster Well-Known Member

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    During Labor Day weekend I went to mountains with Dh. I left car at home. Sons decided to go off to Ocean Breeze (a water park) with grandkids. Where we live it gets flooded easily during a Northeaster, hurricane, tropical storm, or just plain rain.

    Florence came through here during that weekend. Road flooded. They went through it with my 95 Golf Volkswagen. End result? Flooded. Water came in doors, they pushed car back home.

    Now I have a car that ticks, ticks, ticks. After two oil changes and a quart of transmission fluid in oil (BIL said that would help) the car still ticks, ticks, ticks. However, at first the car missed very bad, now the car after spark plug changes, new air filter has quit missing. It runs smooth except for the ticking in valves. Is there any hope? How long before car just gives it up to the dead?
     
  2. foxtrapper

    foxtrapper Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Not enough information to accurately answer. If the car went underwater and hydrolocked while running, things can be bad. If it just splashed into deep water and stalled because of splashed water on the distributor, it's no big deal.

    Tick tick tick, could be anything. Just not enough info to answer.
     

  3. wy_white_wolf

    wy_white_wolf Just howling at the moon

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    I'd check the spark plug wires. Ticking could be one of them grounding out. Look it over in the dark and look for a little blue spark.
     
  4. RockyRooster

    RockyRooster Well-Known Member

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    It stalled out and water came into the doors, but not flooded to the point of over the hood.
    We have changed the spark plugs and wires, it seems that the car missing is getting better why I don't know. And just found out today that as long as the valves are ticking and not knocking all we have to do is remove one spark plug at the time, hit the gas pedal to clean out that one, put back and and repeat with other spark plugs. We will try this. Thank you for responses.
     
  5. skruzich

    skruzich Well-Known Member

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    Rocky,

    You have some work to do. What has happened is the water got into the oil while it was running and filled up the lifters with oil and water.
    Well when oil and water get mixed together, it turns into a milky paste like substance.

    Heres what you have to do for starters. drain all the oil, take filter off and drain, put back on if it isn't too bad, and fill your engine up with however many quarts of oil you use but use transmission fluid. You can also use 1/2 kerosene and 1/2 tranny fluid. doesn't really matter.
    start engine and let idle for as long as 30 min. DO NOT rev engine. Just idle.
    The tranny fluid is thinner and will thin the coagulated oil in the lifters.

    IF this works, your ticking should start to stop. IF it doesn't stop, go to next step.

    If i remember right the golf engine has a service plate on the side of the motor underneath the intake manifold. If you remove that, you can get to the lifters. You will also have to remove the valve cover.

    Start on one end, go to the top of the engine, there should be a rod coming up through the head over the lifter your working on.
    Ok there are a couple ways this can go. Some engines have a rocker arm assembly which looks like a long rod going from front to back horizontally with short rockers that go perpendicular to the rod and rotate around the shaft.
    Those rockers will have a rod that goes down into the engine.
    You remove that rocker arm assembly through a series of bolts and the whole assembly comes off.
    The other way is like mine, where the rocker arm bolts directly into the head.

    Either way that rocker arm has to come off, lift the push rod which is a thin tube about 1/4" in diameter with a tiny hole in the end for the oil to flow up. It descends down into the head and on top of the hydraulic lifter
    there will be one tube per lifter.
    Pull the tube, and around the lifter there will be a thin metal retainer clip that is bolted into the block to hold the lifter in place.
    Remove that thin metal clip. now the lifter should have a portion exposed, and you can take something like a pencil with a eraser on the end, wipe the oil off of the lifter and take the eraser and push against the side of the lifter and pull it upwards. Once you get enough of the liftter to grab with your fingers, pull it out. It might be a little tough due to burned oil on the surface.

    Next once you have it out, wash the lifter out in a can of gas, wipe it dry and look at the top of the lifter. it should have a depression where the rod would fit snugly in. There is going to be a thin wire clip in there. Take needle nose pliars and remove clip, or a very fine flathead screwdrive to remove clip.
    once clip is removed, turn lifter over on a flat surface and tap down on the surface to remove the internal components. NOTE, make sure you don't scatter them. place each piece in order of sequence as you take them out.
    Once all the parts are out wash the lifter in gas real good and get all oil out, and i use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to clean all the residue off the lifter.
    once your main lifter body is clean, set it aside. In reverse order of how you took the insides out, take each part and clean very good.
    IF the part is rubber or neoprene, use gasoline only. Do not use carb or brake cleaner.
    once you clean each part, place part inside of the lifter body as you clean them. Once you finish with all parts, put clip back into the lifter and make sure it snaps into place. Once your done with that, take pushrod and clean the inside of it with carb or brake cleaner using the tube to spray into the tiny hole. Clean outside until its not dark colored, and smooth.
    Once you clean the push rod, put end of rod into lifter and press down. it should compress all the way down. I take and do this stage with the lifter standing up in a small cup of oil, and it will prime the lifter and fill with new oil.
    You don't necessarily have to do this.
    Take cleaned lifter and return to its spot in the engine, and work on the second lifter in line. ONce its clean replace retainer clip, and insert pushrods back into place. IF yours is a rocker arm assembly move on to the next pair of lifters and repeat the process. Once you have finished with all the lifters, set the rocker arm assembly back into place and make sure all push rods are in their proper spots and bolt back down.
    Replace gasket on service panel and silcone the new gasket, and bolt plate back into place. Make sure you drain all the oil in the engine, remove the filter and fill back up with 10w 30 or manf spec oil.

    Once that is done, start the engine, and let idle til the lifters quiet down. They will fill back up with oil shortly.

    It will take you about 5 hours to do. But thats cheaper than having a mechanic do it!


    Steve
     
  6. RockyRooster

    RockyRooster Well-Known Member

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    skruzich, thank will pass this on to son's who messed up my car. Will let u know what happens. Thanks for PM. Rocky.
     
  7. Pony

    Pony Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I was going to say, "Sticky lifters" but did not know the cure for it.

    Thanks, Skruzich! :)

    Gosh, I learn something new here every day. :baby04:

    Pony!
     
  8. skruzich

    skruzich Well-Known Member

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    Your welcome. I learned the hard way what it was when i overheated a engine one time and the water in the radiator got into the oil with the engine running.
    Really it isn't as complicated as it sounds, just alot of steps to do in fixing the problem and it keeps you from having to spend 8 -12 bucks each for 8 lifters. hehe
     
  9. spam4einstein

    spam4einstein Well-Known Member

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    Yep, someone either didnt tell you the truth about how deep they got, or they drove really fast through it and got water in the intake. It cold be a bent valve, but likley its just as someone else said (contaminated valve or lifter). There are products sold just to free valves & lifters. Same principal as stated above, thinner oil gets in the guides better and has a cleaning effect. It may go away on its own, even if the valve is slightly bent, driving it may cause it to it to grind itself smoothe again. It may burn a bit of oil after that though.

    Either way, a serve spanking is in order! LOL!
     
  10. PlainFolk

    PlainFolk Member

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    Rocky,

    I believe Skruzich is right on the money with his diagnosis. However, unless I missed it, there is one other thing that needs to be checked while the pushrods are out. Lay them on a flat surface and roll them to make sure that none are slightly bent causing too much clearance at either end. When water enters the cylinders, something is going to give due to the fact that water cannot be compressed like gasoline , diesel, etc.

    Alot of times when water is ingested into the cyliders, a pushrod will bend when a valve tries to open and the water is holding it shut.