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de oppresso liber
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here's one which has me. . .the arm of an automatic closer on a commercial type aluminum and glass door has been pulled out of its mounting because people keep trying to make it open wider. They "fixed" it by putting in larger screws which resulted in it being fixed until those screws pulled out.

So they want me to fix it and it has me stumped. Moving the mount over would work but it would change the geometry meaning the closer might or might not work and if they continue to over stress it with four holes in the frame they might just rip a hunk out of the frame (I'm working on a door stop to stop the over stressing, that's a different post).

I looked at the local hardware for something but the only things I could find would require me to drill 1/2" holes in the door and I'm not willing to go that route yet.

I stopped at an auto parts store thinking surely there's something motorheads use when they need to make a hole smaller but their only advice was JB Weld.

Another option, which I also don't like, is to pop rivet and epoxy a plate on the door and mount the closer arm on it.

Can anyone think of another way to fix it?
 

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Dh has occasionally put a huge fender washer behind something which needed the screw hole size reduced. Probably won't work in this case though.

Any way you try to fix it, if the door doesn't open all the way, will be temporary anyway.
 

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Used to have that as a common problem in theatres. You are doing the doorstop, which is the main fix. The additional plate was what was often done. However... VERIFY that the pin that the door rotates on, and the socket it lives in has not also suffered damage. I can think of a few instances where the door came completely off after abuse like that. In one case in a strip mall, a customer was hurt pretty badly. You don't want to be in any way connected to such an event, and if you have "repaired" the door you could be on the hook. Just to CYA, put it in writing that the door should be replaced and you take no responsibility for further use of it, and get the owner to sign off on it.
 

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The frame is likely thin, 1/8" or less and tubular, meaning hollow, right?

So unless you have some really nifty tools and amazing fingers to slide a nut or toggle bolt in behind the stripped out hole, my best suggestion is probably the simplest and easiest to accomplish, and I have had to do similar repairs so I know it works rather well.

Cut out a thin steel plate (1/8, 3/16, etc) maybe 2 x 4 inches, whatever matches the frame in the area of the holes, with plenty of overhang, that's why you can go thin with the steel.
Match the holes to the door closer, drill them a little on the small side for extra thread depth, then use several screws to mount that plate to the aluminum frame, say one in each corner. Maybe a little JB Weld underneath if you feel like it.
That's about the only way you're going to have any long term success without buying a new one.
 

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de oppresso liber
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Discussion Starter #6

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I'd put a steel plate on the outside of the door, then drill holes from the inside to the outside through the new plate on the outside of the door.. then use long bolts that will reach all the way through the frame to the outside plate you put on...

You could paint it to look better if need be..
 

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Have you considered tig welding the holes shut and then redrilling?
 
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Born in the wrong Century
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simple , take some not to thick and not to thin aluminum flat stock, the width of the door.

Drill holes every 4" ,Grind down any meat hooks where the closure pulled free, screw the flat stock on then attach the closure. use self tapping screws (round head style if possible.)


The flat stock will be thicker then the doors metal giving more hold at the closure, and the multiple screws should give enough hold across them to prevent the flat stock from being ripped off the door.
 

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de oppresso liber
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Discussion Starter #10
Have you considered tig welding the holes shut and then redrilling?
No and I don't think the wife would by fixing it as an excuse for buying tig welder.
 

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de oppresso liber
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Discussion Starter #11
I 'fixed' it by drilling a second set of holes. Not the best fix but it was the fastest.
 
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