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Efficient use of lumber.

2K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  JRHill02 
#1 ·
I have picked up, hauled, and stacked twenty nine hundred feet of one by six shiplap lumber to finish the inside walls of the house I am building. Due to the length of logs they had to work with, my lumber is cut into ten and fourteen foot lengths. Never having built a house before, I have a question. What would be the most efficient way to install this with the least amount of waste? I have two thirty foot walls, and two forty foot walls, ten foot tall. The framing is on twenty four inch centers.
 
#2 ·
If the siding is a full 6 inches, you will need 2 courses x 10 ft for height. You multiply that by 100 linear feet total, and 2000 sq ft of coverage is the result. If you don't have knots or other factors, they say allow 10% for wastage, although personally I buy 20% to be safe.

I would apply it the same way you install laminate flooring. You go left to right, and at the end of the course, after you cut a full board to finish the course, you use the remnant from the cut to start the next course. That helps you stagger your joints with the least wastage.
 
#3 ·
I would cut some 10’ers into 5‘ then start with a 14 then 10 then 5 ‘
and repeat
when you get to the end of the wall you use the cut offs to start the next row
but you have to see how many boards you have of each size .
maybe you can start like stated above then use 14’ in the first 3 rows and then 10 ‘ in the next 3 and so on .
Or you can just hammer it up ? just Start with your cut No matter what .
If you come up short on a beam jut glue a scrap on the back and nail it To piece it together.
 
#4 ·
If it's going to be the finished surface on inside of walls, I'd put something behind it, otherwise you will have gaps at the joints where air can draft thru, bugs, etc.
I'd probably first sheath the walls with OSB, then run the 1x6's vertically. With the OSB behind it, you can get a nail anywhere, so you could do it with virtually no waste, allowing butt joints occur wherever they fall. Would probably put a little construction adhesive on back of each piece before install and shoot them in place with a trim nailer.
 
#9 ·
I like the osb idea allso , I just like to have a repeating pattern on the wall , I was assuming the walls have insulation and vapor barrier .
It hard for me to use osb the stuff is 47 bucks a sheet here now , they are robbing us blind
I just messer the out let’s and cut with a jig saw or Multimaster it gos easy .
Just make sure you can get the screws in the holes for the outlet .
I unscrew the outlet and tape around the sides with a few wraps of electric tape and pull the outlet out so it’s easy to work .
 
#11 ·
I like the osb idea allso , I just like to have a repeating pattern on the wall , I was assuming the walls have insulation and vapor barrier .
It hard for me to use osb the stuff is 47 bucks a sheet here now , they are robbing us blind
I just messer the out let’s and cut with a jig saw or Multimaster it gos easy .
Just make sure you can get the screws in the holes for the outlet .
I unscrew the outlet and tape around the sides with a few wraps of electric tape and pull the outlet out so it’s easy to work .
I started with a metal building. Steel frame, covered with sheet metal. Sprayed the interior with one inch of closed cell foam, the only vents are at the peak of the roof at both ends. Framed the inside with lumber, pulled the electrical wire, installed six inches of fiberglass insulation, cover with 1x6 shiplap. This winter before I put up the fiberglass, I fired up the wood stove and heated it up to 80F, it was 20F outside. I walked around inside with no shirt on, could not feel a draft anywhere.
 
#18 ·
Hmmmmm , I’m not sure if that works , im not a spray foam guy .
But in my world the VB always gos on the inside .
The house breaths draws air in and out of the house thru small holes .
Insulation that has the VB on the cold side rots the wood .
Like a floor always gets VB to the heated area and every one just staples it up from the bottom
I replace a lot of floor systems . I’m not a expert on spray foam .
 
#19 ·
Yup it seams fine to not use a VB on the inside .
I would sure want some thing over the glass insulation
I would think the glass fibers would be blowing thru the house for ever , it’s making me itchy
thinking about it .
Maybe some dry wall under the wood ??? Not that I’m trying to cost you extra money,
but at least dry wall is not double or triple the price today.
You can glue the ends so there is no worry about wast you could use every piece of the panel board .
 
#20 ·
Maybe some dry wall under the wood ???
Drywall is waste paper held together with chemicals. I would live in a tent in a swamp before I would live in a house with drywall. Once it has dried the close cell foam is supposed to be inert. If the shiplap is put up nice and tight, you would have to chop a hole in it to get the fiberglass to blow around. And if a little of the fiberglass gets in and blows around, I'll just have to tough it out for the few years I have left.

The house breaths draws air in and out of the house thru small holes
If I put the foam in right, there shouldn't be any small holes. When the foam dries it makes a air tight seal.
 
#21 ·
The fiber glass is a health risk .
You can’t fight air pressure it gos up and comes down , the air will push small particles through the cracks in the boards . I am sensitive to it.
If you start getting a raspy throat in the winter with the stove cooking You will know why .
The insulation and dry wall is is nothing compared to the blown foam with its chemicals leaching out .
the fiber glass won’t kill you fast so if you are on your last leg I mite be ok .
 
#25 ·
Somebody or something has been trying to kill me since I was a teenager. Between my 18th and 19th birthday I had been to South America and back, and survived my first gunfight. I have been attacked by wild animals, insurgents, bandits, drug smugglers armed with ak-47s, and a mugger in Monrovia, Liberia armed with a very big knife. I have known bad horses, bad women, and truly evil men. I carry scars from teeth, hooves, knives, and bullets. What a great joke it would be to die at home in my own bed, from fiberglass insulation.
 
#28 ·
Rock wool is good stuff and fire proof .
There is nothing wrong with fiber glass really , the problem comes from it not being sealed off to the living space .
There are cracks in TG planking houses breath ,
the glass fibers are all ways around and you breath them day after day .
I would never put wood panels over just framing and raw insulation .

Just thinking , how about covering the in side of the framing with red Rosen paper ?
It’s cheep, it will staple on in a few min ?
It will allow air flow without glass getting into the living space .
 
#31 ·
Something like Tyvek Housewrap would work better. It breathes, but would stop particles from working out of crevices. Given the number of walls the OP has outlined, it would probably only cost $200 or less to use the wrap instead of a conventional vapour barrier.
 
#30 ·
Yes faced is ok but there would be a double vapor barrier and moisture can get trapped inside
If the walls where covered with sheet rock it would be ok allso , then put the wood over it .
There’s a lot more to this than meets the eye.
all my homes have unface insulation with plastic vapor barrier and i have been working on them since the mid 70s I’ve changed windows and walls and I have no rot and the material looks new .
I am in a cold climate
 
#32 ·
Ok, I give. I will go to town tomorrow and buy some of that clear plastic vapor barrier stuff. It isn't that I think I really need it mind you. It's just that after I am dead and gone, I wouldn't want my wife's new boyfriend to feel like he had to tear the walls down and redo it.
 
#36 ·
I tongue and grooved our planks which are on all interior stud walls. Made our inside doors of the same so they visually matched the walls but not in plank width - it didn't matter to me. The tongue and groove isn't fully air tight but would solve fiberglass complaints but still breathe. And we did fiberglass all the interior walls and ceilings for sound insulation. The outside walls are lodgepole logs.

If we have any problem its humidity on the windows/frames. Our heat is wood and it pulls air from the outside so we end up over firing the wood burner and cracking open a few windows. The place is medium small and simple with a loft so it doesn't take too much cooking or living to have humidity puddles below the windows and that sucks. The windows are double pane, clad outside but wood inside. Every winter I have to clean and apply fungicide bi-weekly to the lower part of the window frames to fight mold/fungus growth.

The roof ceiling is T&G yellow pine. Over that is 6" of spray foam, air gap, 1/2" plywood, tar paper then tin. The roof is like a glove. Totally sealed and I was told around R40+. I don't doubt it. I am totally, totally happy with the roof system and with the foam. But the year over year problem is inside humidity.

There are all kinds of sensitivities. Whether one grits their teeth over fumes from building materials, fiberglass or EMF there are gotchas. Fortunately we don't have sensitivity except for intense smoke from wildfires or trespassing hunters/poachers.

Just sayin' when you are done there will be a mental list of things you wish you and done differently. It's part of the fun.
 
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