[Guest]

I have about eight doe dwarf flops (I think) and four bucks. When I try to breed them the females hug the bottom of the cage and just lay there or run away from the bucks. The bucks seem to know what they are doing when the catch the does they do everything the bookds say they should but the females are very uncooperative. I need some help please
help help help

 

[Bob in WI]

One question?

Are you taking the bucks to the does pen or are you taking the does to the bucks pen?

I remember reading some time ago that does will not be as receptive to breed in their own pen, apparently it is a territorial thing.

When we raised rabbits we would always take the doe to the buck, and it worked for us every time.

Just a thought.

 

[Jessie21287]

You might also want to try putting the doe in the bucks cage and the buck in the does cage. It will probably make her want to breed. I tried that with one of my un-cooperative does and the next day she bred just fine. ALWAYS take the doe to the buck. If you bring the buck into the does cage, she will probably get aggressive and fight the buck and try to get him out of her territory.

Good Luck!!

 

[Vera]

Hmmm... I don't keep mine separated, so they breed whenever they're good and ready to breed. I have two "families" of one buck and two does each (one pen per family), and I leave the kits in the pens with the adults until they're well weaned and big enough to go in the grazing cages. People have told me that this keeps the does from being "receptive" longer than if I kept them separated, but honestly, I'm pretty much drowning in rabbits, so I guess this concept works just fine

 

[Guest]

I always take the does to the bucks. the only time I was able to bred a female flop was the one I bred to a New Zealand Buck. I do not know what I am going to do with the eight does that will not breed with the bucks. I have even tried holding the doe as it says in one of the books one hand on her neck and the other under her bottom to hold her in the mating position and nothing seems to be connecting. How can you tell how old a doe is??? I recieved the flops from a gentalmans family after he passed so do not have any records about these rabbits.

 

[Pat Lamar]

Hello, Willow's Mom... I also have a 29-year-old daughter named "Willow." Small world, eh? Now, back to the matter at hand (e.g., breeding your non-receptive lop-earred does).

Do you know how to tell when a doe is receptive by looking at the color of her vulva? Simply turn her over as if you are sexing her and check the color of the protrusion. White to light pink = non-receptive. Bright pink to red to dark red and even purple will mean she's receptive. The darker the color, the more receptive she will be. No sense in wasting your time if she's not receptive. Check again in a few days.

Rabbits are "stimulated ovulators," which means that she won't produce the eggs to be fertilized until she is "stimulated." The mounting behavior of the buck is enough to do this. Try breeding three days in a row and see if that helps. Or, you can place her in a cage between two bucks for a week. The sight and smell of the bucks will be enough to also stimulate her to want to breed. Pet people wanting to breed a doe will often take the doe for a car ride! Yes, you read that right... the "vibration" of the vehicle simulates the "breeding activity" and will stimulate the doe.

The age of the does usually matters only in the area of conception... an "over-the-hill" doe will still breed... but not conceive. Rabbits are allotted only a certain number of eggs for their lifetime (varies with each doe, so there's no set maximum).

Try breeding either during early morning or early evening hours. Rabbits are "crepuscular" animals, meaning they are most active during the dawn and twilight hours. Do not try to breed at feeding time... their minds will be on the food, instead. Doesn't bother the bucks, but it will interfere with the females.

Try these tips and let us know if you succeed.

Pat Lamar
President
Professional Rabbit Meat Association
http://www.prma.org/